NCWayne

Wayne, I have a Case 580L that I use around the farm, and on side jobs that developed a hairline crack in the top of the plastic end cap/tank of the radiator. The local Case dealer has the part for $150ish, but told me that he really didnt want to sell it to me because according to him once you uncrimp/bend the tabs to R&R the part the tabs will break off rendering your leaky radiator totally ruined. His solution was a aftermarket radiator, but i was wondering if you had run into this and a had a solution that doesnt involve a $800-$1000 radiator? I have used a two part metal putty from Kimbal Mid-West on a plastic Chevy radiator but it only lasted 3 or 4 months. I was also pondering maybe taking a soldering iron and weed-eater line and trying to "weld" it shut or maybe just melting it back together? Any thoughts? I know it sounds like the dealer is trying to sell me a radiator, but I do a lot of business with him through my job and he has yet to steer me wrong.

I'm the kind that is all for reusing, or repairing a part when ever it's possible. So, as bad as I hate to say it, and you hate to hear it, your best bet will be a new radiator.

I went through the same thing with the radiator in my service truck about a year ago when it cracked about 3 inches, in line with the top of the tank. Fortunately the one I was able to find to replace it was all metal, but price wise it was just shy of $1000.

The main reason I replaced it is that I couldn't find anything that was really made to bond the type plastic used on the tank (I had tried it before in other instances, and nothing really worked). As far as replacing just the tank, it's really not worth the expense to replace just one part, and take the chance of things going wrong a week down the road.

That said, I have taken the tanks off of some of the radiators I replaced to make clean aluminium, and I've got to say it's not as easy to bend the tabs and get the old tank off as it looks like it would be. Once off, I don't see how you'd ever get the new tank on and the tabs rebent, one at a time, tight enough to form and maintain the seal.

That said, if you can get all of the dimensions off yours, a good radiator shop might be able to find you a replacement for at least a little bit less than the dealership. I say might both because many of the radiators are machine specific and are a dealer only item, and because the dealer will often have a good price on items like this simply to keep their prices comparable to an aftermarket part (if available) so they keep your business.

As a last resort some shops might be able to use your old frame and custom build you a new radiator, but it might wind up costing more this way than just getting one from the OEM. Good luck.

As usual, good advice from NCWayne. The radiator in my 1990 IH 8100 truck started a slow leak last summer. I couldn't pin point it. But since the radiator was plastic and aluminum, I knew what I had to do. I got a new radiator from a local truck repair guy, who gets them from some place in the midwest. I had learned my lesson the hard way. I had searched and bought the cheapest radiator I could find for a tractor on line. After partial installation I discovered what was wrong! The sides of the radiator were tapered, when they should have been straight. I was already disappointed when I had discovered that they had changed the top tube, so I would have had to have gotten one of those flexible hoses. So now I was hopeful I could return it and get my money back, since it wouldn't fit. No suck luck. I called, and much to my chagrin, they sent another! They wouldn't believe me on the straight vs tapered. Fortunately it was a $200 mistake and not a $1000 one. I will never buy such an item again unless I can deal with the place face to face.
Anybody want a will-fit(well, sort of) radiator for an AC WC-WD-WD45?

G,
I guess I am fortunate the newest I can afford is a '65 HD3 Allis where everything is metal. Down side is finding parts . That being said I noticed your choice of plastic welding replacement plastic and have found using plastic wire ties electricians use to bundle wires. It takes practice but has been effective. Initially used to plastic weld a plastic part on the roof carrier on my SUV. New plastic part cost more than the value of the SUV. HTH
Mr. T. Minnesota