Snow in the air-things happen

Forum Members,
Just returned from a place closer to the Arctic than home:) Had white out conditions this morning (Friday, 11-7-14).
Two items of mention. About two weeks ago I changed the fuel filters and cleaned the fuel line on the HD3 crawler. Was making improvements on the old farm road and suddenly the diesel slowed to a crawl and powerless. Wondered what could happen next?? Did some checking and finally noticed I had knocked the fuel control closed for the injector pump. Anyone done this or am I just lucky:)
Second novice observation was noticed pulling an old Oldsmobile across the field to another spot. I was watching the track movement and wondered how the pins and bushings actually wear. I know this track is badly worn but I can not figure why it wears as it does? I have read how that owners reverse/turn the pins and bushings to get more wear. Novice question- why not reverse the whole track- switch side to side? Again this a novice question. Any and all thoughts are welcome. Let me know if my brain is frostbitten.
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
pins and bushings wear when they go around the sprocket and the idler and the sprocket teeth wear out the bottom of the bushings
tracks have to have the grousers in the forward position to reduce wear
 
When I was a kid and used to go to the shop where my father ran the machinery repair business I use to help him turning pins and bushings and all sorts of track repair,I had thought that the links should be made in such a way that the pads would fit on either side of the chain,then all that would have to be done was remove the pads and turn the chains over and fit the pads to the worn side, mind you I was only about 10,I was told the chain does not hinge both ways, and that it would have to be like a bicycle chain with inner and outer links,like Cat use now with rotating bushes,if your chains are badly worn you can prolong life a bit by removing a link to shorten the track,anything metal on metal plus the abrasive in the dirt will ware,the tracks that have lubricated pins and bushes still ware it just the nature of that type drive just like tires.
Happy snow plowing
AJ
 
AJ,
Thanks for the reply!
You mentioned removal of a link in the chain. I have already tightened the track on the HD3 by placing a shim to tighten the track to a reasonable tautness. In fact I thought I was going to double shim one side and that did not work. It made a unusual snapping noise that did not sound right so I removed one shim on the double shimmed side. I am not familiar with other track configurations but the HD3 has an odd number of sprocket teeth. After searching on line for different remedies for track wear it mentioned not to remove any links. Have you read or heard of this advice?
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
You won't find that cure mentioned in any manual but when needs must it can prolong the life of the track a bit more,there is no cure for worn undercarriage but replace it.
AJ
Ps
A hunting tooth sprocket has the chain run between every other two teeth alternating every revolution of the sprocket,an even number of teeth the chain runs between the same teeth all the time missing the tooth in between,some people would leave it that way till the pins and bushes were turned and then put it back so it was using the unused teeth.
 
Yes, reversing pins and bushings works if you do it in time. The bulk of the wear is only half the bushings and sometimes half the pins. Pressing them out, turning 180 degrees and pressing back will often tighten the track up to near the standards of a track with new pins and bushings. It will, however, still be sloppy and snake sideways if left too loose.

We used to turn a lot of pins and bushings with our track press back when tracks were more simple and not sealed. I did my Oliver maybe 10 years ago and it worked great. Same with my 350 Deere.

Switching a track from one side to the other does NOTHING. You have to reverse the wear surfaces in each track link.

The downside to turning is labor costs. Same work turning old ones as it is to install new ones. But sometimes new pins and bushings are not available OR they are so expensive - turning them is worth it.

Taking a link out tightens the track and lets you run until just about everything is ruined. I've seen people do it until the sprocket teeth wore right off and spun inside the track.
 
J,
Who does this type of work today. The bushings are worn open and the pins look worn too, about 3/4 original size. May have to fabricate pins and bushings. Is it possible? Any and all advice is appreciated.
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
if they are worn through too late to turn them--have heard of guys turning new ones on a lathe
but you still need a press to push the old out and press the new in
 
If the side of the bushings that is not being contacted feels unworn and there are no breaks anywhere in the bushing - turning them might work for you. Finding someone to do the work is another issue. Track press shops are getting rarer and rarer. What few are left (at least in my area) will not turn pins and bushings and will not even work on certain small tracks. I had a local farmer do mine. He bought a small track press from a local John Deere dealer when they were upgrading. He did my tracks for $200 each. It was well worth it.
In regard to making pins and busings? Yes, it can be done with standard DOM tubing and steel rod. But after you do all the cutting you have to send it all out somewhere to get hardened which will not be cheap. Last I checked, no new pins and bushings available for the old style HD3 or H3 tracks. No aftermarket either. I think for the new style tracks with bigger bushings - the parts for 653 AC tracks will fit. H3, HD3, H4, HD4, and 650 series all share the same tracks.
 

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