Case 750 crawler/dozer hydraulic adjuster question

Bookem-Danno · Sep 15, 2014

I recently bought a Case 750 crawler and wouldn't you know it, within 5 hours the front port idler bearings all went out in the dirt somewhere. So, I separated the track, pulled the idler, reworked everything, put new bearings in and it was all cool....... Until I realized that when the track first went slack and this being my first dozer, I pumped some more grease in and obviously blew the seals in the adjuster. Needless to say, I didn't know this until I had the thing put back together.

Now, here's the question. Do I need to pop the track again or can I winch the idler out far enough to pull the adjuster? I sure wish I had realized this before I put it back together. In the interim I have been using it with a temporary solid "adjuster" or stop installed. Honestly, it works fine and I have considered just setting it up with jack screws but I do know that the spring takes some of the shock out. Anyway, I want to fix it right and wonder what you might think.
Thanks!
Dan

george md · Sep 16, 2014

Should not run without spring action ,will break
things.

Also nose of tractor looks way too far down
between the tracks, check torsion bars or the
equalizer bar between them. Hood should set
level with tracks or slightly up.

george

AJ. · Sep 16, 2014

Splitting the track is the easiest way,many people do what you have done to keep going till the seal can be replaced,the recoil is like a shock absolver, you say you are new to crawlers so a word of caution regarding those recoil springs,the recoil spring is held in compression to the tune of several tons depending on the application, never tamper with the center bolt as a press is required to dismantle and put them together,also be careful with the fill valve,never loosen the grease nipple to relieve the pressure always loosen the valve body a couple of turns.
Good luck with the seal change
AJ

Bookem-Danno · Sep 16, 2014

(quoted from post at 06:11:32 09/16/14)
Should not run without spring action ,will break
things.

Also nose of tractor looks way too far down
between the tracks, check torsion bars or the
equalizer bar between them. Hood should set
level with tracks or slightly up.

george

I am aware that the suspension is in need of repair. The bushings are shot in the links and the bushings are gone in the torsion bar brackets. No amount of adjustment is going to set the suspension right. I just got it, so, first things first. I didn't even bother to tell you that I have replaced nearly 200 loose shoe bolts and took about a yard and 500#s of oily dirt out from under the engine. The belly pan under the hydraulics is full of junk as well. You do know what those covers weigh, without a half ton of dirt in them, right? Well, they're heavy and there is not much room to work under there. I'll get it squared away. OTOH, it runs like a top and the sprockets, transmission and track are in good shape and it pushes hard enough to spin the tracks. That's all good.
It's obvious that it has not been maintained in many, many years. I can't understand why anyone would let a nice piece of equipment get like that. But, hey, I got it for a song and I can do the work.
Thanks.
Dan

Bookem-Danno · Sep 16, 2014

Yeah, I agree. I just have to get the parts together and get a hand to help me hammer out the link. The guy I got it from gave me a parts manual but it is suspect. This machine is a '67 if the S/N list I saw is correct and the manual was printed in '61. I have twice ordered parts using the manual and have gotten the wrong parts exactly two times.
I hate letting it sit but I'll pull the adjusters before I order parts. I think I'll just do both sides as it seems like the stabbord side takes too much grease, too. I got the idler bearings off eba for less than 80 bucks. Odd setup on that side. A grooved wheel bracket with matching bosses on the wheel make up the seal. The other side is different. It has a cored wheel and a grease fitting in the spindle. The solid wheel has a plug and a solid spindle so the grease has to go in through the wheel after you take the dirt cover off. I just used a pipe nipple with a grease zerk on the end. Well, a good service manual would go a long way but I do have an extensive background in industrial equipment. So, there's that on my side.
Thanks.
Dan

george md · Sep 16, 2014

Dan,

I have parts manual on CD ,send me a ser #

and i'll see if it covers that #.

Send me an email also.

george

Bookem-Danno · Sep 18, 2014

Hi George,
I mailed you the number but in case you don't get it, the S/N is
7072219.

Thanks,
Dan

george md · Sep 18, 2014

Got it and answered

george

Case 750 crawler/dozer hydraulic adjuster question

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