repairing rear oil seal on TD6 1952 HOW?

thomaskd44 · Sep 3, 2014

[b:5056574fc4]Hello[/b:5056574fc4];
I have been looking to find the best; easiest, most convenient, way to replace the rear main oil seal on my TD 6.
I have read that the only way is to pull the engine. However, there are a few that went into the housing instead. Good information -kinda- without detail. I understand how going into housing works, and will go that way this self. What has not been made clear, no detail; is why the oil pan must come off. Are they saying that you have to pull the pan to remove the lower rear seal housing? I have removed the oil pan, and even removing the rear main, there is no way one may get to the lower housing.
Does anyone have clear, intelligent information in and as to the above??? Also, to do this job I need the torque settings for the fly wheel, drive connection, clutch apparatus, and the rear main seal housing bolts.
[b:5056574fc4]Thanx[/b:5056574fc4] in advance for information; torque settings.
when finished I will give detailed information in and as to repair/replacing the rear main seal.
[b:5056574fc4][/b:5056574fc4]

oldtanker · Sep 3, 2014

(quoted from post at 15:08:32 09/03/14) [b:7173cb2bd1]Hello[/b:7173cb2bd1];
I have been looking to find the best; easiest, most convenient, way to replace the rear main oil seal on my TD 6.
I have read that the only way is to pull the engine. However, there are a few that went into the housing instead. Good information -kinda- without detail. I understand how going into housing works, and will go that way this self. What has not been made clear, no detail; is why the oil pan must come off. Are they saying that you have to pull the pan to remove the lower rear seal housing? I have removed the oil pan, and even removing the rear main, there is no way one may get to the lower housing.
Does anyone have clear, intelligent information in and as to the above??? Also, to do this job I need the torque settings for the fly wheel, drive connection, clutch apparatus, and the rear main seal housing bolts.
[b:7173cb2bd1]Thanx[/b:7173cb2bd1] in advance for information; torque settings.
when finished I will give detailed information in and as to repair/replacing the rear main seal.
[b:7173cb2bd1][/b:7173cb2bd1]

Go ask this on the construction page at redpower. Lots of guys over there know a lot about them old IH dozers.

Rick

thomaskd44 · Sep 9, 2014

(quoted from post at 20:40:46 09/03/14)

(quoted from post at 15:08:32 09/03/14) [b:41d6dfde43]Hello[/b:41d6dfde43];
I have been looking to find the best; easiest, most convenient, way to replace the rear main oil seal on my TD 6.
I have read that the only way is to pull the engine. However, there are a few that went into the housing instead. Good information -kinda- without detail. I understand how going into housing works, and will go that way this self. What has not been made clear, no detail; is why the oil pan must come off. Are they saying that you have to pull the pan to remove the lower rear seal housing? I have removed the oil pan, and even removing the rear main, there is no way one may get to the lower housing.
Does anyone have clear, intelligent information in and as to the above??? Also, to do this job I need the torque settings for the fly wheel, drive connection, clutch apparatus, and the rear main seal housing bolts.
[b:41d6dfde43]Thanx[/b:41d6dfde43] in advance for information; torque settings.
when finished I will give detailed information in and as to repair/replacing the rear main seal.
[b:41d6dfde43][/b:41d6dfde43]

Click to expand...

Go ask this on the construction page at redpower. Lots of guys over there know a lot about them old IH dozers.
I attempted to get on red power; however, they provided a quiz, like; What are the color of the pages in the Red Power magazine? I have never seen that magazine, and I am not a guesser of any kind -so, end of story.
thanx

Rick

AJ. · Sep 10, 2014

The last time I done that job was back in the early sixties and can remember that I took the clutch out,flywheel off,undone the engine back plate,rad off and lifted the engine out,I think the reason was that the two halves of the seal retainer can't be got our till its clear of the back plate,I could have replaced the seal by just moving the engine forward a couple of inches but I had lifting gear at my disposal,clean all the carbon from the seal area and any throwing grooves that may be there as I can't remember that detail.
AJ

thomaskd44 · Sep 10, 2014

(quoted from post at 08:35:14 09/10/14) The last time I done that job was back in the early sixties and can remember that I took the clutch out,flywheel off,undone the engine back plate,rad off and lifted the engine out,I think the reason was that the two halves of the seal retainer can't be got our till its clear of the back plate,I could have replaced the seal by just moving the engine forward a couple of inches but I had lifting gear at my disposal,clean all the carbon from the seal area and any throwing grooves that may be there as I can't remember that detail.
AJ

Thanx AJ I can now see that I can remove the clutch handle and shaft; take the bolts out at the drive, remove the clutch, take off the fly wheel, and putting the fly wheel in a certain position I will have plenty of room to remove and install the seal/housing. I don't understand why I need to pull the pan. I did and even taking the main cap loose, I cannot see the bottom seal housing, let alone get to it with a wrench. Why cannot I remove the bottom seal/housing in the bell housing?
Thomas

AJ. · Sep 11, 2014

Look at the attached drawing,I have put the crankshaft beside the block way you can see what you can't see when its in place,note that the seal retainer is in two U shaped halves,for to get them off when all the bolts are removed the top one must go up to clear the flywheel flange on the shaft and the bottom one must go down for the same reason,the seal fits in the first groove inside the F/W flange,I cant remember clearly but I think the bottom part of the seal retainer has the oil pan bolted to it.
AJ
Ps the block must be clear of the engine back plate as the seal retainer fits in a D shaped hole in the plate.

thomaskd44 · Sep 11, 2014

(quoted from post at 01:34:18 09/11/14) Look at the attached drawing,I have put the crankshaft beside the block way you can see what you can't see when its in place,note that the seal retainer is in two U shaped halves,for to get them off when all the bolts are removed the top one must go up to clear the flywheel flange on the shaft and the bottom one must go down for the same reason,the seal fits in the first groove inside the F/W flange,I cant remember clearly but I think the bottom part of the seal retainer has the oil pan bolted to it.
AJ
Ps the block must be clear of the engine back plate as the seal retainer fits in a D shaped hole in the plate.

thanx A J. Today I pulled the clutch from the flywheel. Lifted it out with my backhoe. I think I could have done better by removing the bolts on the drive -three small bolts to hold the gear from going too far Working in the Arizona sun, wore this Vietnam vet out. Next is the fly wheel -straightening the metal from the head bolts reaching inside the box. Do I have to move the engine to get it separated from the plate. I have the pan off, pulled the main cap; however, I cannot see a way to the lower seal housing. And what are the torque settings; housing bolts, fly wheel, clutch, and connecting drive bolts.
Thanx

AJ. · Sep 12, 2014

The back plate of the engine has to be separated from the block to allow the seal retainer to be removed,the retainer sits in the D shaped hole in the plate,as it has to be expanded to clear the flywheel flange the plate must be out of the way,I do not have the torque for the flywheel bolts.
Good luck
AJ

thomaskd44 · Sep 12, 2014

thanx.
Checking the pressure plate, the plate intermediate -surface- has more cracks than a dry lake bed. I turned the intermediate plate, screwing it out. So, I need a intermediate plate to screw in.
the international part number is; 273 168 R91
Can you or anyone tell me where I may purchase this piece?

AJ. · Sep 13, 2014

There are two offered on Machinery Trader at the link below.
AJ
Machinery Trader
http://www.machinerytrader.com/list/partssearch.aspx?partnum=273+168+R91

thomaskd44 · Sep 14, 2014

Thanx AJ.

I have pulled the rear main cap and discovered the bottom of the rear oil seal housing; however, there are no bolts -one each side- at the bottom of the housing.
There were no holes, with threads at the end of the crank. I constructed a piece of hard steel, bolted it on the fly wheel and pulled the fly wheel off. There is not a way to get the fly wheel back like the photograph. The compartment is tight with the fly wheel. I can get it far enough to remove the housing. There are two bolts at the top that go into the bottom housing. Anyway, we will see tomorrow. I noticed the gear at the end of the shaft is worn much, with not much left to go. This dozer has been through some heavy torque. When finished will give a report; which is easy 'pull the engine, or go through the top plate.

thomaskd44 · Sep 16, 2014

(reply to post at 19:35:55 09/14/14)

I have learned a few things: First, of those that have made a claim; -removing the rear oil seal from the top of the clutch housing without pulling the engine- perhaps they were successful; where they truly failed, is describing how they did it. I attempted that avenue. I learned, the clutch pressure plate is 13" in diameter, meaning the fly wheel is large, and the clutch/pressure plate is a TD9. Therefor, my dozer is more than likely a TD9 not a TD6. The cast number on the pressure plate is CL4539, and I was told by General Gear that all TD6's have two levers with the clutch, and the TD9 has three levers. Mine has three levers, plus the clutch plate for the TD9 is identical to my clutch plate. My dozer has no model/serial plate. In any event there is no way to move the flywheel back; the fly wheel is large, and wall to wall. Secondly, the top of the rear oil seal will not clear the -D- shaped hole/plate. Therefor, you cannot remove the upper rear oil seal -it catchs' between the crank and the -D- shaped hole/plate. I did not see two bolts below, for the rear oil seal housing.
Those that said the best way, perhaps the only way, is to pull the engine; are most correct -I am going ahead and pull the engine. The pressure plate, I will resurface. Most importantly, I learned who knows and who doesn't. Thanx to everyone, ya awl been helpful hear!
Thanx AJ; you have been most helpful -thank you

repairing rear oil seal on TD6 1952 HOW?

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