ihcowner

Member
The electric fuel shutoff solenoid on my 1150E burned out this spring,we have been running it manually since. The new one I have came from Case and is just the same as the old one. When I put it on it won't work, if you push the plunger in it will hold it until you cut the power. But it will not pull the plunger in like it should. It has three wires going into it, one is ground, one has 24 volts to it with the switch on, the other don't seem to do anything. I wouldn't think the new solenoid is bad, but something isn't working like it should. If anybody has any ideas I would like to hear them.
 
I've worked quite a bit on one of the Case 850H's, as well as quite a few Cummins engines in general, but haven't run into one of the 1150's yet. That said, the solenoid is actually two coils in one housing. One is a really strong, and is used to pull it in. It draws a relatively high amount of amps. The other is a low amp coil who's sole purpose is to hold it in while the engine is running.

That said, it sounds to me like the pull in coil isn't being powered like it needs to be. Usually it will be wired on some sort of a timer, or switch, that will cut the power to the pull in portion of the coil as soon as the engine starts.

Something I have seen on the 850 is a switch on the dash for priming. It allows you to spin the engine over so the transfer pump will prime the system, without the engine trying to fire off and run. If yours has that feature the button/switch might be bad/stuck and not allowing power through to pull in the coil.

I tried looking on their parts site to see if I could cipher out anything else to help you out more. Unfortunately there's not a lot there to go on other than to say the electric system has several breakers in it, so one of them might be bad and causing your problem.

Beyond that, check for wire color, number, or whatever, and trace the 'dead' wire back from the solenoid and figure out where it feeds from. With that knowledge, the cause of the problem should be easy to spot and repair.

Good luck.
 
One wire is hot when the key is on, one wire is a ground, The third wire gets it's signal from the start circuit,so it pulls the solenoid in when cranking.
 
If this is a Bosch in-line pump the stop/run solenoid will not pull in the plunger when the key is switched on till you go to the start position power is sent from the start circuit to the solenoid and it retracts to run,the secondary coil holds it there when the key is let go,if the solenoid is not retracting when start is hit check to see power is going to it,if yes the new solenoid has an issue,if not the trouble is in the wiring,one wire is ground,one has power when the key is on.the other one only has power when the key is in start position
AJ
 
Thanks for the feed back, I thought it might be a two stage unit since it had 3 wires. I was working by myself at the time, so I didn't have a good way to test the third wire. It worked fine for years with the old one, and the new one was just the same, so I thought it would be a 10 min. job. lol I will have to check things out, when the old one burned out it may have caused wiring problems. Thanks again
 
If you did not change the wires around it should be ok,I would doubt if anything is wrong with the wiring as the starter is working,but?, there are circuit breakers on one side of the engine but I can't remember which,that type stop is far from ideal,it is spring loaded to return to the stop position when switched off,in extreme cold weather the rack can freeze in the stop position,had to disconnect a few and stop them manually so the stop could be left in run position over night,when the solenoid fails the cheap fix is a cable and its a lot more reliable.
AJ
 

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