Update on jd350c knock

russdog

Member
After removing motor and looking for contact,I couldn"t see anything. I was checking the reverser input shaft for endplay and started turning it over and that is when I felt it. There is something catching at every 360 degree turn. Feels like a tooth missing on a gear. Spinning the input shaft by hand feels good for a bit than it catches and makes a knocking sound. That is what I was hearing when it was running. The noise must have traveled up the shaft into the bell housing. Now I will have to pull the reverser and find the damage. It has never been out before so was wondering if there are any tricks to removing? The lower bolts look to be a real bear to get at. Thanks, Ken
 
If the knock is there only on start-up and shut-down , That's the straight cut gears on the countershaft meshing with the clutchpack gears.. Not a problem.. Many do that on start-up and shut-down.. If it's something that has just started to do, I've seen the countershaft bearing end break off the shaft.. Not a bad job, Just look it over and take it apart as needed.. To overhaul , set the reverser upright on it's tail and start from the front [ after you drain the case ] .. You might need a helping hand when the clutches come out as the countershaft comes out with it at the same time.. You must remove the control valve to release hollow locating pin that secures the clutchpacks in place..
 
Those lower bolts are a reason why so many 350s get their reverser and transmission cases ruined. The factory puts them in super tight. Near impossible to get them that tight yourself again. So they loosen, the two locating dowels wobble, shafts and cases get ruined. Most 350s I look over these days are coming loose where the two cases join.

When we took apart 350s when near brand new - we'd heat the heads of the bolts cherry red so they'd stretch. Then later, we'd use new grade 8 or 9 bolts to put back together and tighten with chain-wrenches. We had to take apart a lot of nearly brand new 350C with blown reversers.

In regard to your knock. I suggested earlier you pull off your reverser filter and stick your hand inside to inspect the counter-shaft. You can reach in and put your hand right on it.

You are gong to have your hands full. Usually pulling a reverser is no easy job. Usually entails a few or more broken or stripped bolts. Have your side-frames been cracking where they bolt to the final drive clutch housings?
 
I was going to pull the filter out and check inside but when I found the noise I knew I had to pull the reverser. I figure I"ll look at it when I get inside. The frames and bolts all look tight with no sign of being loose. I am sure it has never been apart before as I have owned it most of it"s life. It looks like it will be a fun job. To bad I can"t pull the guts out the front of the reverser. Thanks, Ken
 
You CAN pull the guts out the front. Be a tough job trying to fix a reverser that way - but as I recall you CAN get the stuff out the front. Worst part is getting the reverser-control valve assembly off the side of the reverser case while the reverser is still bolted in. I've done it - so I know it can be done. Some studs have to be removed. Once that control valve is out - and two little oil-delivery tubes out, much will be free. Then you remove the front cover, and then yank all the guts out. One reason why it usually NOT done this way is bearing-shim adjustments. If the end-play on the shafts if wrong - the bearing quill where you remove shims to tighten is in the back of the reverser. If the end-play is OK now -then I guess it is possible to fix without taking the reverser case out.
 
Thanks for the reply. I was in upper Michigan last week and didn"t get back with you. I see it would be real tough to get at the control valve to remove so I am just going to pull the reverser out.I want to be sure the end play is alright before reinstall. Too big of a job to put back together without checking everything. Thanks, Ken
 

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