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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

931B, the good , the bad and the ugly...

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Stick welding

08-07-2014 18:09:05

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First off, thank god for places like Princess Auto. They had what I needed in stock and it didn't cost a fortune. I got a new 1 ton chain come-a-long cause something broke in my old one, a 4' lifting sling, some jack stands and socket accessories. It was a little over $200 for everything. I could have got a cheaper hoist but a good come-a-long is handier than a pocket on your shirt.

I went out today and the first thing I did was block up the machine better. I picked up some 7 ton jack stands on sale for $42 but when I first put them under the Cat, I forgot that both tracks will turn together, so I was actually pulling the whole machine backwards to take out the first 6 bolts. I put the 2 jack stands under the track cross member and then used the 20 ton jack and lifted on the rear tow bar. Much easier to turn the tracks now. I hooked a short chain across a track pad and then hooked a come-a-long to the chain anchored to my skid steer. If there was tough spot or I went too far, I used a Jackall/Hi-
lift jack on a grouser bar to move the track.

I got 13 bolts out of the outside hub and 5 bolts out of the inside hub. I used a 7/8" deep socket and an impact swivel connected to an extension on my breaker bar to get the outside bolts. Once the bolts were loose, they turned easy with just the socket. The outside bolts were tight but had no loc-tite while the inside bolts had some kind of loc-tite on them. Then I put a 4' sling under the clutch pack to hold it while I removed the last 2 bolts. I wrapped a chain around the roof of the ROPS and hung the come-a-long from it. 1 ton of force and the clutch pack wouldn't budge. I did notice there was a lip where it fits together on the bevel gear side so pried that over and still no go. Maybe part of the problem with the steering clutch is that the arm doesn't move in and out freely? I sprayed some WD40 on the ball end of the clutch arm yesterday just cause it looked a little rusty. I was thinking I might have to heat up the outside hub cause it was stuck but realized the clutch arm has to turn up in order to come out. I tried to pry on it with no luck. Just when I was about to call the shop for idea's, I thought of something else to try. I took my pry bar and a long snipe and pried on the adjustable bolt in the clutch arm while I hit the snipe with a hammer. I heard a bang and it was loose! The ball was rusted in the socket. It's supposed to be greased.

I had to fiddle with it to turn it so it would lift out of the compartment. OK, got the clutch arm out. Now I know why Cat recommends removing the fuel tank. When you wrap the sling under the clutch pack, it doesn't lift level. It tilts to the outside. I lifted it up as high as it would go but it hit the fuel tank so I lowered it a few inches and then yanked sideways on the chain to tilt it the opposite direction so it would clear the fuel tank. Then I just man handled it out onto the top of the case. Would have been much easier with 2 people. Cat lists it at 165 lbs. There's definitely rust in the splines so maybe that's the problem with the clutch?

Now that the steering clutch is out, there was about 1/2" of crud packed in the bottom of the case. I loosened it with a screw driver and scooped most of it out. It appears to be dirt but maybe it's clutch and brake material? Does the case need to be cleaned out really good? There was also a little bit of oil on the bevel gear hub and the flange was oily. I'm guessing the bevel gear seal has a slight leak but the checking the dipstick, it's a little bit over filled. Is it hard to change the seal? I have it it apart already. Could it leak a little past the big nut?

I'm going to take the clutch pack and cylinder in to get checked out. Do you think it's better to put the left side back together first or tear into the right side right away? I'm making progress but what a dirty messy job. I drained the hyd. oil but it's still dripping out of some of the lines. I'm going to use a paint marker to mark the holes when I put it back together. I don't imagine it will be very easy lining up the holes.

Sorry for the long post. All of your guys help has been greatly appreciated!

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08-08-2014 16:38:58

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 Re: 931B, the good , the bad and the ugly... in reply to Stick welding, 08-07-2014 18:09:05  
I started to chime in the other night and tell you that you would be time ahead to pull the tank but seems like you like to do it the hard way. Get the hole clean but it does not have to be clean enough to eat out if it. Just get the crud. I usually just pull both sides then put it back together but guess it is up to the individual.

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Stick welding

08-08-2014 23:56:25

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 Re: 931B, the good , the bad and the ugly... in reply to jm., 08-08-2014 16:38:58  
I've never done it before and wanted to see how hard it was to do the left side first since that brake does nothing. What makes you think I want to do it the hard way? Why do think I'm asking questions and borrowed the service manual? How many times do you read about tractors that were taken apart and then sat for years because the person didn't know what to do? I'm working on this out in the middle of nowhere with no shop to work in, no air tools and so far no help. Several people, including the shop that has worked on these, who are experienced say it's not necessary to pull the tanks. The fuel tank wouldn't be too hard to pull but the hyd. tank would be a major PIA to pull since the control valve and all the hyd. lines are attached to it. Further complicating it, is that it has a 4 in 1 bucket and aux. hyd's for the backhoe. That's a lot of hyd. lines and getting them all back together without any leaks could be fun.

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