931B can't win for losing!

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I got my starter fixed, it was basically just worn out. 3 mechanics from the military happened to come riding at my MX track and helped me get the starter back in. Definitely a 2 person job and the relay still had to come off to get it in. GREAT!

Put the hoses back on the pump and filled the hyd. tank. Now to see if it will start. Hooked the battery up and hit the starter button. Nothing! Took a volt meter and had 12.7 volts at the starter. Then I unplugged the wire from the ignition switch and jumped the wire from the relay to the positive cable from the battery. It started right up. Fantastic! Hooked the wire from the ignition switch back up and it works like it should. Strange why it didn't work the first time. Any ideas why?

Now it's time to see if it steers properly with rebuilt steering valves. Right brake works like it should but left brake still does nothing. I don't know if water in the case can cause this or not (dry brakes) but I think now I have to pull the back end apart to get at the brake bands and/or steering clutches. I can at least move it now and take the backhoe off but what a PIA. The brakes were both working perfect one day and then the next, the left was acting up and eventually stopped working. I'm getting tired of fixing equipment and I don't have a shop to work in. Any other things I should try? I think I must be getting good pressure because the right brake works properly. I'm considering taking it in to have it done but wouldn't be surprised if they wanted a couple grand or more to fix it. The shop rate is $142/hr.
 
Wow, $142 an hour. I wish I was close to you. I'd be more than happy to do anything you need done for the low price of $65 an hour, and do it in the field where it sets, like I already do 99% of everything I do.

Now as far as the brake, have you tried adjusting the brake since you rebuilt the steering valve? I can't remember the initial problem you were having, but what I'm thinking is with the steering valve not working properly, it was overpowering the brake and basically wore it out quicker than you'd think. If the brake was trying to stop the drum and being overpowered, the drum would swell some, causing the brake to work even if it was worn. Too, with everything hot, it could have glazed the drum and lining causing it not to work properly.

I'm not sure what access you'll have to check for glazing, or to be able to get anything abrasive on it to cut a glaze, but before anything else I would check the adjustment and go from there. Good luck.
 
All I see at this point is $$$$ signs. I just don't have enough experience with this and I'm about ready to blow it up. I'm so tired of constantly fixing stuff. Changing fuel filters to fix the tractor problem isn't bad, repairing the starter isn't bad but now this %#@*^# steering problem. I had them both working great and then one day the left side needed a lot more pressure on the brake pedal to turn. I shortened the brake rod to do maybe an hours work but it dragged down the right side as well when turning. Then it did nothing. Now after getting the steering valves rebuilt, it still does nothing. It drives straight and doesn't seem to be pulling on one side. It seems to have good drive to both tracks and free wheels going down hills. I don't know if it needs brake bands or steering clutches or what. I just know to take it apart, is a major PIA job. From what I've been reading, it's a very labour intensive job and even the fuel tank has to come off.
 
You done well so far don't give up,are the two steering clutches disengaging,will the machine stop when you operate the two steering controls together,if so you know the clutches are ok,go under the back and open any drain plug and see if you got water or oil in the compartment,either can cause the brake to slip,remove the brake band stabilizer bolt,see what comes out,when you put it back tighten it up so it lifts the band up against the drum and back off two turns,go up top,remove the access plate to the brake band adjuster on the top cover,tighten up the brake adjusting rod till it justs nips the drum,back it off two full turns,might as well do both sides,alter the linkage rod to get the pedals even and try again,if there is oil on the bands you can try a brake cleaner fluid.
Good luck
AJ

mvphoto9046.jpg
 
Thanks! I'll take the backhoe off and see if there's
water in the case. I also read that if the screen
for the transmission has black flakes, it's from the
clutches. I'll drive it a bit more to check the
clutches. I only drove it a little ways yesterday
and I think it still wanted to move slightly with
the pedals pushed but I didn't have the seat on so
it was a little awkward sitting on the battery.
 
If I'm thinking right, your machine has dry clutches and brakes. Because of that, the housing it sets in isn't tied in with the transmission like it would typically be on one with a wet clutch/brake design. That being the case there is no way clutch or brake material either one should be getting into the transmission oil from wear, like it would do with a wet design.
 
The steering valves for the clutches use oil. I thought the oil for the clutch valves comes from the trans.? I checked the screen and it was pretty clean regardless.

For the steering, I have a better idea of what it is and isn't doing. It appears that the steering clutches aren't working. I drove it some more and pushing both pedals down, it keeps driving. I raised the bucket and drove toward a small steep hill and even then it just wanted to keep going with both pedals pushed down. It won't do a gradual turn but the right side will do a brake turn pretty easy. It make a clunk noise one time but the track locks up and it turns without making the engine work. The brake rod on the right side is loosened more than the left. The steering valve cam moves about a 1/4 of the way before the brake rod moves. I lengthened the right side brake rod and can't remember exactly why.

I took the backhoe off to get at the bolts that hold the brake bands up. Surprisingly, it wasn't too hard to get the hoses uncoupled and coupled back together. Usually I'm fighting with them. I loosened the bolt on the left side about 1-1 1/2 inches but it was getting really hard to turn. I worked it back and forth but then turning it a little more, it got real tight again. I don't know if rust would cause that or not? The threads looked clean coming out. The last thing I want is to break the bolt off so I just left it alone. I think it's almost out. Maybe heating the bolt will make it come out the rest of the way? I didn't try the right side bolt. I'm just so frustrated with this machine. It would appear I have to do a major dis-assembly but I'll need to borrow a pressure washer to clean everything up first. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
I would leave that bolt.screw it back up aganist the band and back off a couple of turns.all that bolt does is to keep the top of the band from contact with the drum.it seems there is a bit of confusion as whether you got dry or wet brakes.which have you got.with either the clutch need to disengage for the brake to work.
P
 

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