adjusting H4 Allis tracks

pinball

Well-known Member
I read the service manual but im a little confused about the cap screws. I take it there talking about the oblong bracket that is bolted on the yoke for the front idler. I removed those bolts. bracket is good and free but 10 ft cheater and I cant budge the adjusting screw. Is there a cap screw on the front idler I need to loosen or something else I have overlooked. I have soaked the adjusting screw where it goes into the yoke. all help appreciated. thanks norm
 
PB,
Good luck in turning that tightener! Looked at the tightener on an HD3 I recently purchased and decided to shim the opposite end. It was enough to tighten the track. Have been advised to not over tighten the track. If you do not have a lot of slack to take up and want to know how I did it let me know.
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
Pinball you are correct, loosen the two bolt and it should turn. You don't even need to take the bolts out from what I remember they just need to be loose. That small plate needs to be free as well.

My guess is the threads in the yoke are rusted up. Keep spraying them down, you might even try heat.

Becareful if you try shimming the other end where it goes into the spring plate. It is about 1/2" diameter roughly 1" long pin that is machine into the end of that bar you don't want that coming out on you. Good luck,
Don
 
I have quiet a bit of slack. probably 3 inch lag in the chain. Is the adjuster rod fastened on the spring end. it looks as though it just fits in there. thought maybe I could put a porta power and push the roller forward and try to put something behind that if I cant get the adjuster freed. thanks norm
 
PB,
I used a site on line to figure out what the HD3 looks like part to part. I only needed a 3/16ths thick washer to remove the slack on my track. I tried an additional 3/16ths on one side and it was too much. The sprocket made too much clicking noise when turning. As mentioned by another forum member the circular disc between the spring and adjuster is not that thick. The spring end of the adjuster has a 1/2 inch button/protrusion that keeps the adjuster in place on the disc. Just guessing you could get 3/8th of an inch without too much trouble. I fit a 12 ton hydraulic jack carefully to release tension on the yoke. I cut a 5/8ths inch slot in the large washer to fit over the protruding button. I lightly spot welded it to the existing washer to prevent losing the new shim/washer. This was my solution to the rust/welded tightener. Hope this was explained well enough. Check back if you have any other questions on this remedy.
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
I finally managed to get the adjusting screw to move on the right side of my crawler. when I move the wrench down I think that loosens the track. It is pulling the yoke back from the idler. I can see some separation at the dowel pins. Going up which I think to tighen is another story. doesn"t seem like the idler is moving. is there something im not seeing like something to loosen on the idler. Thanks to all for your help.Norm
 
PB,
Congratulations! I did not have the long bar or wrench to grab the hex part. May have to get hints from you. To make it tighten try filing the threads a little, might help. Another hint, google Allis Chalmers HD4 tractor parts catalog. You should end up with a site posted by Minn Par which gives you an idea of what things look like on the inside. I checked the HD4 site today and it works. HTH
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
Actually the adjusting arm had several places where the wrench fit pretty tight. I used the bucket on the skidloader to move the wrench. after I put a pretty good torque on it I hit the yoke a few times with a hammer and it broke loose. soaked it good the night before. thanks for that site. guess I should use google search engine more. now ive got to find out why my roller assembly is not moving. thanks for the help. norm
 
Put a porta-power on the idler toady. fijnally got it to move. had to do both sides. guess is was just rusted to the slide plate. will move both directions so maybe that"s a good start. I thought I would put on the new upper roller I got (used). seal was really cracked badly so I took it out and went to the parts store. old seal was 60x38x12. they could only come up with a 60x38x10. do you all see any problems with that. thanks norm
 
Norm,
Do not know much about the seals on the HD series from Allis. All depends what the difference in 10 and 12 are in the dimensions. HTH
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
From what I have been told it is the thickness of it. inside @ outside diameter is the same. thanks norm
 
When I started I had 4 inches of sag between the top rollers and the idler. 3 1/2 sag between the roller and sprocket. me and old skiddy now have got it down to 2 inched and 2 1/4 inches. put the used top roller on with the new seal. all looks pretty good. haven"t decided whether to use oil or use grease on the roller. sort of leaning toward the oil as the old roller except of the flat spots really looked good inside. it still had oil in it. thanks norm
 
Norm,
Will the lubricant get to the tracks? I have an old operators manual for my R2 Cat that says do not grease or oil the track. Just checking the reason for the grease or oil.
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
the grease or oil in the carrier roller is just to lubricate the roller shaft and bushings, it should not leak out and get onto the tracks.
 

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