D7 6T Flywheel dry clutch discs

If I am correct, CAT can provide the friction segments, but you may have to drill and counterbore each and rivet the segments to the plates, and there are 2 that drive the driven plate on a dry clutch.

Regal, an aftermarket supplier may have the same parts/materials and though I have found no one local, a clutch/friction shop, one that still does heavy truck, cranes etc. should be able to do it, wish I could find someone to do mine, one in kentucky, Kentucky Clutch, outfit like that could probably do the job, might have to ship the plates, and its what I may have to do myself, and I have a chicago rivet machine, manual, would have to tool it, they are still available, just the drilling and counterbore intimidates me, need a template, ie; old segments,then set up the drill press ? Maybe I make more of it than it is LOL, but I think those are the options available for these old dry clutches. Neat you have a 6T, made for the Navy, and only 1000 or so were tagged as a 6T, 1T's were the other obscure one, armored, there are a few photos of those on the web, if you look.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a machine shop so should be able to drill and counter sink for the rivets.
Removing the clutch looks like a big job. Bolts that have not been out since 1945.
I did not know 6T were Navy I knew they were rare compared to the others. I love running the old girl. Kind of a work out but you can still do a lot of work if your not in a hurry.
 
It should come out in a few hours, I removed mine by myself, the upper bell housing is a bit heavy though as is the clutch assembly itself.

Check the those thick fiberous, heavy cloth/belting like drive links and note the shim count on each one. Those drive links can take a beating, but seem to be a wear item, I think both CAT and Regal, can supply those. On the ACMOC and or ACME, antique caterpillar forums, there are listings for suppliers, Florin Tractor comes to mind for older parts etc.

Also when you re-install, be aware that you need to check alignment both axially and radially, its described in the serviceman's reference book.

Be really cool to see some photos of it, your work regarding the re-lining of the plates. One thing that gets me is the machining of the segments, the other is getting the one plate off, theres this bushing on the shaft, getting it out and putting it in is no big deal, its all the other things. I'd love to just send my entire clutch to a shop to have it done, I have a nice complete one, just want the plates re-lined, never been able to just get it done.

The pilot bearing, in the driven plate, you'll want to check, and or replace that if its got any problems, roller bearing, and it does need to be lubricated, mine was seized, and it wallowed a hole in that driven plate, the drive links took a beating before they let loose, I was fortunate to find a complete clutch, in nice shape, linings just worn too much for my taste, hence the hold up. Amazing it held up for 15 hours on the meter, if known, would have given you time to get it out of the field, onto a lowboy or whatever to get it to where you could work on it.

Check the pinion for the starting engine while its out, it will be in plain sight.

Serviceman's reference book will detail the work needing to be done, if you don't have the book(s) I would suggest getting them, being a 6T, it will be a '45 model so its almost identical to an early 3T, should be the same as a 4T, transmission gear ratios and the clutch adjustment collars were some differences from 7M's to the 3T, 4T, 6T etc. Other than that, they should be very much the same. Not many 6T's left, been years since I've heard of one mentioned, somewhere in the last 10 years and it may have been 10, I recall 2 for sale together.
 

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