disassembling bucket cyl. new holland L555 deluxe

The bucket cylinder on my old New Holland L555 deluxe skid steer has started leaking terribly- a constant stream under pressure. Time to rebuild.

I got the spanner nut off without too much trouble. Now what? I don't understand how the cylinder comes apart- I don't see what the lock ring accomplishes.

The cylinder is still plumbed into the machine and attached with the rear pin. Would it be really stupid to use hydraulic pressure to blow the piston out? I saw a guy do this once on the bucket cyl of my backhoe- it was messy but worked.
 
If there is nothing else holding the piston in, it should come apart but don't use hyd. pressure. The lines still connected could be preventing the piston from sliding out because there is no air and it's like a vacuum seal. Kind of like a jerry can won't flow gas with the vent closed. Loosen or remove the hyd. lines to the cylinder and it should come apart.
 
Look at the parts drawing enclosed,undo the ring (13)use a drift and tap the gland (9) into the cylinder till you can remove the retaining snap ring (10) from the cylinder wall,slacken the two hoses attached to the cylinder and pull the rod out,put the rod eye in the draw bar or like and remove the piston nut,take the piston off and slide the gland off,take the old seals out and clean everything,put the new seals in place in the and put the gland and piston back on,lube everything with hydraulic oil and put the piston back in the cylinder,push the gland in far enough in to get the retaining snap ring in place,put on the lock ring,tighten the hoses and put the pin in the rod eye,top up the oil job done.
Good luck
AJ
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AJ- thanks for the detailed instructions.

The problem I have now is that the gland is quite stiff in the cylinder. I have gotten it to move maybe 1/8" by hitting it with a minisledge through a piece of oak, so I don't ding it up.

I noticed that there was a solid layer of mud caked in around the gland- over the years dust had gotten in there behind the lock ring, and I guess it has formed an effective glue, holding it in place. I have scraped this caked mud away with a screwdriver an wd40.

I have the bulk of the oil out of the cylinder- I can move the ram in and out by hand. I still have the back end attached to the machine as an achor.

I'm about ready to take this cylinder to a shop, but that's gonna cost me.
 
You got to get the snap ring out of the groove in the cylinder wall,the gland will not come out till its removed,I can't remember the exact amount the gland has to be pushed in,but it has to be enough to take the pressure off the snap ring,you will have to persevere and scrape the dirt/rust away to see the ring and if it is clear of the gland as sometimes the gland has a step machined in it so when the lock is on the snap ring can't come out of the groove cos it can't be compressed,use something soft and give it a good clout,once you get the snap ring out you can use the hydraulics to push the rod out,do not let it drop or forget about the oil splash,be sure its not oil pressure that is stopping the gland from going in.
AJ
 

AJ,

I'm having the same problem with the snap ring. Is there a special tool or method to get it out. I thought I found the opening in the ring a couple of times but it's hard to see and I can't find anything small enough to get under the ring. I believe it has the machined tapered edge. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Push the gland in till it is well clear of the snap ring,if you can find the gap in the ring push it into the cylinder with a screwdriver,as the groove is slightly tapered and the ring will start to climb out and you can get behind it,there maybe a special tool but all I ever used was a screwdriver,cleaning all the rust and dirt away before it gets into the cylinder is a must.
Good luck
AJ
 

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