D3B Steering Problem what am I missing

OK I'm a newby here and while I have read several of your postings this will be my first post. I have a D3B I believe it's an '85 serial number 23Y01880. This is a left hand turn problem. I have read many of your comments on this subject and here is what I have done so far, adjusted brakes on both sides (adjustments under floor plate two diamond shaped covers two bolts each) had excessive travel on both pedals now up to spec., tried driving straight(no pedals, goes pretty straight with very slight drift to right), tried pushing centered load (again no pedals, both tracks seem to drive evenly dig in to ground straight), tried pushing load on right side of blade(both tracks seem to drive evenly gradually pushing machine to left)I hope to change bevel gear oil today if I get time. Here is what I think is wrong correct me if needed. (1)Possible failing clutch on right side, (2) possible steering valve problem. How is the best way to determine which? Somewhere I thought I read that the steering valves can be rebuilt, is that so? I am trying to locate a oil pressure gauge to check clutch pressure unfortunatly I am very limited on tools and equipment to work on this so if repair goes to far I'll have to make other plans but I hope to solve the problem myself or at least eliminate as many simple things as I can.
Well that's about everything I can think of at this point, any ideas?

If you can steer the machine easily with no load it's likely okay. Pushing a load on one side of the blade can make machine drift away from the load in some conditions. If you can correct travel with steering it's okay.
Later Bob

Hi Bob thanks I guess I wasn't clear enough in my disc. Machine steers hard to the left. Turning right, just a toe touch. Left however must push 2 to 3 times harder than right turn.

In addition when turning left, right track seems to turn sluggishly. How ever when going strait(no pedals)pushing something both tracks seem to have the same power. If you try to steer left machine very slow to respond while right is perfect.

I think you need to rebuild the LH steering valve. I think the bearing on the end of the spool is worn out and you are not getting full travel while steering. Clutch isn't releasing fully and the brake is dragging down your travel.
The steering valve is a pressure reducing valve, the more you load the spring inside the higher the pressure it will let through. Worn bearing reduces travel and spring force resulting in too low of release pressure.
Later Bob

Thanks again Bob. Please forgive me for being stupid on this but there is one thing that is still bugging me. When I depress left pedal(for left turn) left track does stop promptly BUT it is then that the right track seems to become sluggish. At low RPM it virtually stops. if I throttle up it will finally turn however not crisply like the left track does on a right turn. In my mind if the left valve wasn't releasing the clutches completely the left would want to continue to drive. Am I understanding this right or am I still missing the point? As far as rebuilding the left valve is there a particular rebuild kit for the valve or just parts by the piece as you need them?

Another development, bevel gear oil had water in it(very milky). quite a bit I would say as I drained a full 5 gallons out. I have changed the oil, however I haven't figured out where the water is getting in yet. Any thoughts on that?

do you have wet steering clutches?
I would put the blade against a tree and by not using any pedals see if both tracks will spin and dig into the ground---that would tell if any of the steering clutches are slipping

Your clutch isn't releasing fully and thus is taking power when you break that side. This loss of power makes turning sluggish. When you throttle up and turn the partially released clutch is getting worn unnecessarily.
Later Bob

Bob--I am having a little trouble getting that concept clear in my head! With the left clutch not fully releasing it is absorbing power so the right track is sluggish?--doesn't all the power come thru the bevel gear and equally sent to each steering clutch as there is no spider/differential in there?
Would pushing on both pedals just enough to release both clutches without applying the brakes tell anything if the machine stopped moving? I do that on my old D2 and D4 to check both steering clutch release.
Thanks--Dan

I believe that they are dry clutches. I think this because I have adjustment under the machine for the breaks, am I right?

Since I have posted last, I have checked the preasure on both sides and found the left side to have 250 and the right to have 220. does this mean that the left steering valve is okay? And if so, where do I go next?

I got the breaks and the clutches confused. The breaks I believe are dry and the clutches I am not sure about, I am thinking wet.