D6 9U question

All, can someone tell me what a D6 9U is worth? Found one on CL that is in ok shape. Has hydraulic blade with manual tilt. Converted to 24v direct start but owner still has the pony that runs and will go with sale. He also has the owner and parts manual to go with it and some of the original tools. He states that one track is a little looser than the other. Also turns better one way but hasn't tried adjusting anything since he couldn't get the seat off. Any ideas on value? Would have to have hauled to my place about 140 miles away.

What do I look for as far as undercarriage wear and how available are parts for this guy?
 
Can you get the serial number off it, photos, then post back here ?? Might be able to tell then or by looking if its a oil bath clutch, post '53 or so tractor,somewhere that was changed to standard from the dry clutch.

I would say it could be a few thousand, thats just based on ones I have seen, an exceptional tractor with a good undercarriage, oil bath clutch, direct start or starting engine, no final drive or major component problems, "could" and I say that lightly, fetch more. The 9U was a well built reliable tractors, with one of or the highest production run in that era, they made a lot of them.

What would be handy if you could source one is a Caterpillar track gauge, its a hand held template that you can place on all the various components and visibly see how much its worn, and compare against what was new. Other wise you will have to measure and then compare against new.

I won't venture to guess about the steering, I'm a little familiar with the brake bands on my earlier era D7's not sure, especially if this is a later 9U with oil bath clutch how that is arranged.

With track tension, I know later tractors, or sometime in the 50's they switched from the old style which required a big wrench, and often times cleaning and soaking those threads to get it to move to a grease type, not familiar with that, not sure if the 9U or later 9U has that.

I included the link for one site that had a description on how to measure an undercarriage, the photos are gone now, do some research on the net, youtube or similar, you may find something, lot easier to post a link to something like I did then to try and explain it, but know that eyeballing the components is a mistake, to determine actual wear. Rail height, and if the pin bosses are hitting the bottom roller flanges, sprockets worn to a sharp point, can be seen, so you can suspect what is worn sometimes, but it should be measured to be sure if nothing like that stands out.

YOu can dip a magnet in the final drive compartments, see if there are metal flakes or bits of metal, if this has bellows seals, finals can leak oil and what can get out, can get in, they can leak from age or lack of use. Not sure if those changed from older tractors, they were common for years, also you can pry against the sprocket to see if there is any play, if so, that can be a problem or indicate something may be wrong, you don't want to run them like that. These were referred to as bullet proof tractors, so if its sound, could be a nice find.

Starting engine is nice for cold weather starts, make sure to get that, if were mine, because of where I live, it would go back on. These like clean fuel, hot spark and clean oil, some were known to have the carburetor leak down fuel and contaminate the crankcase oil, not sure with the horizontal opposed piston type engine on this, but do be aware, pull the dipstick, check for thinned or contaminated oil, change immediately if so. These when in proper tune and within wear tolerance, (good compression) will fire and run nicely, and you have almost unlimited time to start that diesel. The advantage is, the coolant warms up, (some of these have to have the diesel engaged to circulate coolant to the starting engine, if not you will overheat it, I forget if that one is like that)oil is warmed and circulated, oil pressure is built up, all before it fires, essentially conditioning the engine to fire in cold temps and have oil pressure before it fires, I am pro starting engine, my D7 will start with the handcrank if everything is maintained and in tune, magneto needs to be firing a good blue spark, and timing set right, spark adavance. Most of the reason why people get fed up with them is because they do not take care of them, these were designed for a reason, and I think should stay with that era tractor, more so if operating in cold temperatures, I need no ether to start my D7 in bitter cold, it will and has fired up at close to 0 deg F, direct start would be a pain with an engine that may have some wear. Just some thoughts, there are some folks here who forgot more than I'll know about these, that participate here. I'm sidelined today, skinned my knee but good yesterday, on the injured reserve list today.

PS - undercarriage parts availability, I am not sure if Berco, or even CAT offers any parts, depending on what pitch, and what conversion might be available, OEM or aftermarket, it was high production tractor, and later series may be compatible, older D6's were offered in 2 gauges, 60" narrow, and 74" wide, (measure from center of track to center of track) and now I am realizing the 8U would be the narrow gauge and the sister to that 9U, so that gauge changed after the 9U and 8U series. Other parts may be available through the Cat classic parts line, salvage and similar. The manuals you need must correlate to the serial number runs and are title as follows, Operators Instructions, Serviceman's Reference Book and Parts Catalog, best ones are good used OEM and I will bet you will see a bunch listed on ebay, its where I have found books for everything I own, most of which is old junk, LOL well not really, but you get the point, older but functional.

Good Luck with it if you get it !!!!

Hope this helps!!!!
Under carriage measurement
 
She's not a bad looking D69U, it may have been reasonably well cared for, some things point that, original tools, often lost, my point is it may not have been in a contractors hands and put to hard use since day one. But, thats speculation,

That right track does have some sag, pads are covered in mud or I can't see the grouser bars, but if there is that much sag, and no adjustment left, you will need to do some undercarriage work, if so I'd stay around scrap price, if not and its in good enough condition to use, I can't say thats an unreasonable price. That tractor should be 12+ ton, maybe more with the S blade and that winch, I'd like to see closer shot of the winch, it looks like a Caterpillar Cable Control Unit, I thought Hyster's were embossed with the name Hyster on the sides, maybe I am wrong. If its a CCU, it is not a winch, the line speed is too fast and not suited for a towing winch, its for controlling and operating cable controlled equipment such as a cable operated dozer kit, or a tow behind scraper or other similar equipment, so depending on what you intend to do with it, that could be a nice set up if you could find said equipment to go with it, the weight of it may balance the tractor better too. You will want to check it thoroughly, I really enjoy seeing these old caterpillars, especially when they can be repaired for use on a farm for part time work or to have as needed for use on ones land.

Do realize that final drive work does require special tooling to disassemble, parts can be costly so it would also be prudent to insure its mechanically sound,hopefully it is !
 
Another thing I noticed, is the blade description may be incorrect, I have a 7A blade on my D7 and it has manual angle only. I am not aware of the S series blades from that era in this case a 6S if I am correct, that has tilt or angle, its straight blade with push arms to the trunnions on each side of the track frame, the A series blade is a C frame and has movable braces that you unpin and relocate to angle, mine you cannot tilt. Now maybe there is more to the photo that I cannot see. The older WWII era tractors that had LeTourneau power control units with knock down and or tilt and angle blades you could see the sector gear looking like hardware on the push arms for tilt and the rings for moving the braces to angle, maybe its me and I am mistaken, but I do not see it in the photo, I stand to be corrected,
 
Its definitely a CCU. I did some Google searches and found a youtube video that shows a #29 CCU and it's almost spot on. I will forward pictures as soon as I get them. The current owner said he never adjusted the tracks because he didn't as he put it "have enough a$$" to move the adjusters.
 
Ok, that sounds about right, one of my D7's does not seem to ever have had them let out. Theres some work involved if they are rusty, but it does have the adjuster covers on. That big recoil spring is nothing to mess with, AMOC, ACME, and those who participate here are great places to get help or advice on things like that, just an FYI if you get it.
 
That's not a bad looking D6. The CCU is a #25 Cat unit. Based on the spoked front idler I'd say it probably is an early model (dry clutch). Does appear that the tracks are at/near or past adjustment range. Most parts are still available new or used. Tracks are still available either original pitch or later 6.9" pitch conversion.

Don't believe you'd have a problem selling for that price on the west coast as they are a popular model.
 
Wish I could find something like that around here. In my area, it would cost twice that. I've recently seen a D4D for $12K that needs a new UC. I saw a Case 850d for $21K that the U/C was rated at 25%. I also saw a D6c for $18K that had a 40% U/C. It's extremely hard to find a good working dozer in good condition for less than $20K. Most are in the $25-$30K range.
 
You need to come to Tennessee old dozers are cheap. For 10 to 12 thousand I can put you in a real good shape td 15 or D 6 c. That 9u D6 would set for years here trying to get $ 4,500 out of it. Good running D4 GEAR DRIVE 80% bottom sold at auction Saturday $4,150.00
 
We have the same problem or situation in this area at times, though actually over longer periods time if you look carefully, you will find what you are looking for in the condition you need at the price you want, or within an acceptable range. Problem is, with immediate needs, you may not find the above, I peruse the ads daily, so its what I have observed. With all kinds of things I have acquired over the years, many were not right away, just keeping an eye out, being in the right place at the right time with available funds.

In my case, I wanted to relive my youth a little, live on a nice piece of land and can use one of these at times, so I saw the D7 for sale, 1200 miles to the west, sight unseen, took a chance, but it was as per the description, even if not, at the price, + the $1500 shipping cost, if I got something that was scrap, I'd have lost some money, but not all, about a 1/3rd at worst, I took a chance, and I did get a very low hour tractor with a hardly worn OEM undercarriage.

I think its a decent option, looking out of area if the price is right and you can afford shipping if its something that matches what you are looking for, even if you do pay more over the top than you want, better to spend a little more for something in better condition.

I would venture to guess that if the tractor shown in this post, just needed tracks, rollers, idlers and sprockets within tolerance, it would be worth doing, maybe there is adjustment left, with better chains, (links, pins/bushings) you could retain or gain more adjustment, it would be fine for what most of us do with these, which is not 10hrs/day 5 days a week, better to rent or own late model equipment for that kind of use.

I was glad to see Old Magnet take a look, stating that undercarriage parts are available for these, that improves the value of one of these for sure, its still costly, but at least you can get it, can't for the D7 of that era or so I believe.
 

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