JD 350 crawler brake/steering clutch adjustment

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have this 350 crawler with lever steering and there was alot of play in the right steering lever so I adjusted it according to the manual. There is now 11/4 inch play in the lever which is to spec.

When I pull on the lever and lock up the brake on the right track, the motor lugs down some compared to the left track which doesn't lug down at all when you lock up the left track brake by pulling back hard on the left lever. (no load on machine)

I was wondering if this meant that the steering clutch on the right is not fully disengaging and how you would test for this and ultimately adjust.

Thanks

Wally
 
350 and 350B have NO oil in the steering clutches. The lever has to be adjusted so as you pull it back - the steering clutch disengages BEFORE the steering-brake grabs. Sounds like you've got your brake on while the clutch is still trying to power it. When all is right - you should be able to put the crawler on a steep hill facing up - put it in forward, let the levers go - and then as you are moving forward- you should be able to pull them back to a point the crawler will roll backwards. Pull back a little more and it will stop thanks to the brakes.
 
The clutch adjustment sometimes can't be done as the manual states.. If you look down inside the top cover , with a good flashlight you will be able to see the throw-out bearing move inward and outward until it contacts the pressure plate fingers.. That is the free-play .. I wouldn't use the lever free-play as that isn't correct due to pins and levers being worn , giving a false sense of adjustment.. An eighth to three sixteenths of an inch of free-play at the bearing contacting the levers is about right.. then adjust the 5/16 bolt at the top for the brake band "timing".. The engine should barely lug down at all when you pull the lever and have the band contact the drum ..If it does , loosen the 5/16 bolt adjustment so the brake band comes on a little later in the lever stroke.. Also , check the "knuckles" where the 5/16" bolt is .. One part should be anchored on the shaft and the other should be able to turn on the shaft in order for it to operate correctly..
 
Just adding to what you already stated. No linkage adjustment of the brake band should be done until its initial "size" adjustment is done. That the turning the nut on the band tight and then backing off one full turn. Then the clutch to brake-grap timing tweaks on the linkage should be done.

Also since he mentioned the right side - it would behoove him to hold the foot brake pedal down tight and see if he can still move the right steering lever freely. They often get rusted and fused together.
 
Just to clarify:

There is the clutch play adjustment which is towards the inside of the housing--you pull back a sliding cover to remove the shaft to adjust. There is a 1/2 inch brake adjustment with a 1/2 inch set nut, this tells the brake when to start tightening, so if I loosen this the brake will apply later after the clutch disengages. The third adjustment is the brake band adjustment which is a 3/4 head to the outside and it should be tightened down and then backed off 1 full turn. I would guess that if I loosened this the brake would apply later.

Wally
 
Yes but the 3rd adjustment with the nut that takes a 3/4" wrench is the one you do first, not last.
 

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