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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Re: Help- 1010 Reverser rebuild reverse always partially eng

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RonNelson

02-04-2014 09:15:17
216.211.176.201



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It is a John Deere 1010, sorry. I did replace the center roller bearing and inspected all the rest. Prior to buying this 1010, the reverser had been rebuilt and many of the parts like cone bearing and packs were good. I did adjust endplay to .003 using dial-indicator. I inspected oil-jet and blew air through. I have 18 PSI lube pressure, which never varied. I have 100 PSI at the test port, which dropped to 0 with clutch depressed, but tractor continued to back up slowly. Essentially I did everything that was in the instruction manual.
The only thing I did that was not in the manual was straighten all the tabs on the last steel separator in the reverse gear. I thought the tabs were bent during the last rebuild installation. Does anyone know why someone would bend those tabs deliberately?
I have removed the reverser and there is no drag what so ever. I will do the compressed air test and see if pressure to the center tube somehow causes reverse to engage.

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jdemaris

02-04-2014 11:00:34
70.194.4.7



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 Re: Help- 1010 Reverser rebuild reverse always partially eng in reply to RonNelson, 02-04-2014 09:15:17  
Seems you've been very thorough. I've seen many reverers sieze up 10 minutes after a "rebuild" when done by the wrong person. Most of the mechanics at the last Deere shop I worked at were not allowed to work on reversers, HL-Rs, or Powershifts. Just me and one other guy did those jobs. I guess we were the only two willing to read tech manuals and use a dial indicator.

18 PSI of lube/release pressure is plenty. It isn't going to be your problem.

In regard to outside tabs on your steel separator plates? You lost me. Maybe my memory is a bit off but as I recall, the steels have inside tabs. It's the clutch discs that have teeth on the OD. The old ones like what came OEM on 1010s and early 350s were some soft of bronze material on the clutch face. Later ones used some sort of thin fiber friction surface. All clutch discs had flat drive-tangs on the OD and none were twisted or bent. What you describe (clutch drag) often happens when a few discs or steels are warped. I'm wondering if you've got a few that lay flat when cold but warp a bit when warm? To be honest - we never reused any of the old discs. Dealer policy was always to install new ones. So my experience of putting the old bronze-faced used ones back in is almost nill. I have a 1960 1010 with a great working reverser that has never been apart since new. Just lucky, I guess. Mine runs 15 PSI on the lube port when warm and 95-105 PSI on clutch pressure.

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