Pulling tracks off a caterpillar 22 crawler

Bruce(OR)

Well-known Member
One of the long term projects is getting a 22 crawler running. I have two of these and most the parts. My question is;
How to tremove the pin(s) holding the track together in order to repair steering clutches or what ever if I ever get this toy running?

Thanks in advance! Time to go wire her trailer hitch on her van.
 
At least its a smaller one, were you able to find the master link and pin on each track chain? I am assuming these all had the master link/pin that could be identified by the divot in the face of the pin. Essentially, you need to drive that pin out to break the track, that could be difficult, hopefully you will get some details on methods to do that. Things get dangerous when applying force, depending on how you do it and what you use, so use care and heed sound advice, I do not ever recall having to do this.
 
Master link? Reminds me of the bicycle chain days.
I have not even looked close up at this dozer.
I would just like to have a better idea of what it is I may be trying to do. I have been informed that one of these machines has weak steering clutches.
 
many of the old Cats had master pins with tapered plugs in there ends. The threaded pull hole for the plug usually was cork filled. You can screw a pulling bolt or puller into the plug to pull it. Then you can pound, pound and pound the pin out!!!!
 
My D7 with low hours, you can see the master link by finding that pin, most of the unused holes still have the cork in them.

Its the pounding or rigging up something to press these out, is where you need some experience from someone with a safe method, I say this as its possible with the forces at work for something to come flying out.

Thing is, with the track on and depending on where that pin is, I think you need to rotate it to a place there is no slack so it won't dampen the blow, or affix your press, to the track pad. Its a good question, " how do you break a track on an old crawler?" like Bruce's twenty-two.
 
I'd do some research on the web, try you tube, very likely you'll find something posted about it, I have good luck with you tube and these kinds of things.

The concern is safety with the forces at work, flying metal and so on, something to be aware of.

While not all that familiar with the twenty-two model, the D2 a little newer, seems to be prone to steering clutch packs rust bonding when sitting for a long time in the elements, sometimes they can be broken free, other times its a final drive disassembly or something major like that to get to these components, lot of work, maybe special or specific tools, but if you have a decent tractor, an obstacle worth getting over. ACMOC and ACME forum and memebers would likely be a good resource for helping with that problem, old magnet would know, he does participate here. I enjoy the real technical posts on things like these, lots to learn about.
 
Rotate the master link, so it occupies the 2 upper most teeth, on the rear sprocket. Loosen up the idler, this is the hard part! When you knock the pin out, if you are worried, hook a come along to a track plate midway down the rear sprocket, and one on the idler up front. When it goes, it goes down, from gravity.
 
The first video shows a track press being used, something they built for the purpose, 50 ton cylinder I believe, might give you a better idea, I've never had to deal with it so far, one good thing is that its a small tractor, the bigger these things get the harder it is. I'd have to rig up something, darned shoulder would never tolerate pounding one of these out, be good to see more comments on this. Old tracks like these, lots of years to seize up but good, I cannot imagine how much force it would take for my D7, age and being in the elements has to make it harder.
Track press
 
soak the pins with your loose juice for at least a week---if it is real stubborn it is easier with 2 guys--one holding the drive pin, which has a piece of heavy cable welded to it to take all the shock out of the blow, and the big guy on the sledge.
I prefer to locate the pin at the 7-8 oclock position on the front idler--that way i can drive it in both directions to get it moving
 
First you need to identify the master link pin type. Real early units had the taper pins in the master pin. These had to be driven (small and large) out the same direction. Then came the threaded taper pins followed by no taper pins and either a raised boss end or dimple for identification.
 
I built a press with a short piece of H-beam a "foot" on one end and a piece of flat stock with pipe welded on the other end. I use a 30 ton jack on the "foot" and the flat stock fits between the pads if they are on the idler and pin is pushed out thru pipe. Oh yeah I made a pin with a cup that fits over the jack piston to push the pin.
 
nys
Could you post a picture of your setup. I need to work on the idler on my Cat D-4 and had thought of using the 30 ton jack from my press to remove the pin as well. Thank's..
Jo
 
nys
Could you take a couple of pictures of your setup and how it attaches to the track to push out the pin?? Thanks in advance..
Jo
 
Haven't used it in years will see if I can dig it out. I remember bending the pin for the jack which was a piece of shaft material for extra strength. I had success with some tracks but tried it on a newer machine with new tracks along with heat and had limited success. But worked on older stuff.
 

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