Dresser TD7 G track adjuster

i have a dresser TD7 G LGP dozer. the track adjusters will no longer take grease, and tracks are pretty loose. from what i understand the seal in the track adjuster is probably cocked. i guess my question is can i block the machine up and work the tracks off, or do i have to break the tracks? if i must break the tracks can i just drive out the master pin in the tracks? if i damage the master pin, where can i get another? thanks for the help

First of all I guess you could get tracks off but sure would be hard. Lot easier to drive out the master pin. Find the pin place it at 7 or 8 on the rear sprocket and knock it in. Should not damage it. SOME G MODELS have bolt together tracks. Tracks would have one link that is split and you remove the pad. Roll the idler with yoke out the front of the track frame. Remove the fitting where you put the grease IN and put air preasure in that hole. You are looking for a small slug about the size of a baby food jar. It should blow out, pay attention to how it comes out. Lots of folks get the dust seal there on end of yoke confused with the real track adjuster. Once you get the piston out remove the old seal heat your new seal in boiling water for a few minutes then place it on the piston in the direction the old one came off. Be careful placing the piston back in the yoke. IF air will not push out the piston there is a threaded hole in the open end to thread a rod and pull it out.

jm. thanks. that was just what i was looking for.

Wouldn't a 7g have the track were you remove 4 bolts remove the[ right pad ]and it comes apart,look for a solid link ??

Would a 7g have the track were you remove 4 bolts remove the[ right pad ]and it comes apart,look for a solid link ??

It was the G ST (Salt Track) that had the split link and lubricated bushings. By now they have probably been replaced with a standard track.

The seal for the adjuster is like any oil or grease seal. Open end goes toward the grease. Taking one apart twice in one day sucks, don't ask how I know.

Now would be a good time to fill up the front idler hub. The G's used the same one on both sides, so the plug is in on one and out on the other.

Unless the tracks are 2 breaths away from shot, it is going to be a lot easier to knock out the master. Especially if you don't have a machine that can lift the rail to get it back into place.

What my uncle and I found worked best, was to make up something to hold a large bolt or piece of drive axle, and run the master down between two lower idlers to hold it.

Be sure to leave room to move the machine fore and aft. Once the pin is out, back up til the track is out of the way. Do the work, then pull back forward til the top is almost back on the idler. Lay a piece of broom handle or similar (make sure it's breakable, sometimes they don't come out) from the front idler to the top idler. Roll the front of the track up around and wedge a piece of your favorite 2X lumber against the blade to hold it up. Use a come-a-long or chain and binders to pull the ends together. The pin goes in easier than it comes out, but keeping the bushings in can be tricky.

Dad has a couple pieces of bar stock with threaded holes that stay in the toolbox. You put the bushings in place, with the bar stock 90 degrees to the link, then snug the bolts down through the pin hole. Once the links start to come together, you can remove the bolts and bar stock, and then the links hold the bushings in place and can be pulled on together.

Our TD 20 C has a drive out pin and the manual says to position the pin foward 6" of the front upper idler.

To get grease in we just about always have to press the old grease out and start pumping with 90wt or hytran (something thinner we have on hand), we made a fitting for the pneumatic pump on our cherry picker, then we can start in with the electric grease gun.

Current state of our dresser:

Have you found your final drive cover.. Should have several laying around. jm

(quoted from post at 19:00:28 03/15/13) Have you found your final drive cover.. Should have several laying around. jm

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We found a new part for ~$1600. Havent pulled the trigger, what do you have and how bad will shipping be. Unloading is not a problem.

We have new aftermarket available. Contact us for more information. Steve. www.pdmechanical.com