977 h caterpillar idler wheels

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

i have a front idler wheel that has a crack around 1/3 the circumference on the inside right can some one tell me if they are steel and weldable they are the solid wheel not spoked i just want weld it if possible thank you all for any info.
 
It can most likely be welded but you may need to cut a hole in it so it doesn't build up with pressure from the welding. When they resurface idlers with build up weld, they cut about a 3" hole in one side and then weld it back up after the idler is finished and cooled off. If you ever see an idler with what looks like a patch on the side, it means the idler has been rebuild with weld.
 
Just rebuilt he undercarriage on a 977 awhile back that had the same problem. That said, you should be able to weld up the crack without any problems. If the crack is running with the joint that holds the rim on, simply grind it out as much as possible and reweld. If there are any other cracks radiating from it and across the side faces of the idler then drill a hole at the end of them, V them out, and weld. For no more welding than than your going to be doing you won't have anything to worry about with pressure building up inside the idler, etc like would happen when laying on the HUGE, multiple, weld beads with a machine torch when rebuilding one.
 
Cracks around the rim of the idler are usually a result of stress built up in the steel from building up the tread area with weld.
Later Bob
 
It's not a big deal to cut a hole and then weld it back in. It doesn't have to be real strong just tack a piece or bar or a bolt on it, so you don't drop it inside the idler. I welded a ripper frame crack for a guy and it cracked right down the weld from the build up of pressure inside. I happened to have some 3/16" 11018 that I used.
 
Most guys have never seen a 3/16" rod, and don't have a power supply with nearly enought amps to burn one. That being the case, a couple of passes with a 1/8" 7018 more than likely won't build as much heat as one pass with the much larger rod. That said, yeah, I know what your saying but my thoughts were that a hole cut and then welded back up by some one that doesn't do alot of cutting and welding would tend to be more of a problem (read new crack waiting to happen) than just not worrying about it. If it were me I'd much rather drill a small hole. In this case 1/4" diameter should be a gracious plenty as a vent, and much easier to weld up than a plate cut out of the side. Too a small hole is far less likely to propulgate a crack due to the round shape than a torch cut hole.
 
Your idler is probably runing outof line. the shims under the side plates can correct this. cut a 2 or 3 inch hole on the side of the idler then weld up the crack and then add on to the center until it is back to center and add passes to both sides until it is back to the original diameter. I have did many cat idlers on the machine, break the track and run the idler out past the end ofg the track. I did a set n a 973 about 6 months ago.
 
Your idler is probably runing outof line. the shims under the side plates can correct this. cut a 2 or 3 inch hole on the side of the idler then weld up the crack and then add on to the center until it is back to center and add passes to both sides until it is back to the original diameter. I have did many cat idlers on the machine, break the track and run the idler out past the end ofg the track. I did a set n a 973 about 6 months ago. a magnatic ground helps you an turn the idler without having to unhook the ground clamp
 
The patch doesn't need aNy strength. It just keeps dirt and water out of the idler. If someone has enough skill to build up the idler, they can weld the cut out back in.
 

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