Case 770 run out of fuel and now won't start

MAH

Member
Hello, I need a little insight on my 770. My son was using it and he ran it out of fuel. Now, I can't get it to start. I have tested by squirting a little ether but it only runs until ether is burnt out. I need to know where to start bleeding my system due to it likely has air in it. I have went ahead and check fuel flow from tank. I get a good strong flow from tank to first filter. Then the only way I can fuel past the first filter is loosening the 7/8 nut with a spring on it between the filters. When it is in tight fuel won't flow but with it loose it will start flowing but not much more than trickle. I am afraid to take it all the way out because I don't want to lose the little spring (after seeing what was on it). Is it possible that it pulled something from bottom tank and plugged it. I am planning on putting new filters on it to make sure they are okay. Any help would be appreciated. Forgive me for this being such a long post.
 
You're probably making a mountain out of a molehill, although if you have not changed the filters in several years of use you would do well to change them. The first thing you need to do is open the little bleeder screws on the side of the injector pump. A 5/16 wrench or its metric equivalent will do that. There are 2 of them, one at the top of the pump and one at the bottom. Open both by turning to the left. Then see the lever at the bottom of the fuel bowl. This is the manual pump lever. Work it up and down until you see diesel coming out at the bottom screw. Tighten it. Pump some more until you see fuel coming out at the top screw. Tighten it. Now grab a 5/8 open end wrench and loosen the nuts at the injectors that hold the steel fuel lines from the pump to the injectors. You can either work that little hand pump until fuel comes out at those nuts, or just start cranking the tractor until fuel starts spurting out. Tighten each nut that has fuel coming out. Don't be surprised if the tractor cranks up while you're doing this. If it does, just hurry and tighten all 3 nuts, or kill the engine and then tighten. David brown tractors don't seem to be as adversely affected by starting fluid as other tractors I have owned, but you should not use that stuff except as a last resort. And if you have to, get the motor to turning over first before spraying a little of it into the air breather.
 
I'm guessing you have a 770 Case tractor?? The small knurled knob either before the filters or later models are on the injection pump by the glass bowl,so loosen the bleed screws,the rear filter will fill by itself,the 2nd or front filter will fill when you pump the hand pump.It will take some cranking over the motor but it should start then
 
Yes, it is a 1970 JI Case 770. There is something that the fuel line goes into before the filters but, I don't remember seeing anything like a small knurled. I will look this evening. Thanks for the help.
 
I will add to what Walter said about ether, if you do not have white smoke coming from the exhaust, do not expect ether to help you, it will only hurt your engine. So, no more ether until you have white smoke. Another help to what has been said. Fill your fuel tank clear to the brim, then in addition to your hand pumping, gravity is helping to push fuel thru your filters to your pump and beyond. My diesel has no primer pump so a full tank is nearly a necessity. gobble
 
I ran a 1070 out of fuel 27 years ago; in my defense, the gauge did NOT work. It was a SOB to get re-started, good luck!! Will never forget the tongue lashing I got from the owner, LOL!!
 
Yes, I know completely what you are saying. I only use ether sparingly. I tried it just to one time to see how it would do. I know the trick about full tank. This tractor has a 50 gallon tank and I am about 35 gallons now so I will probably add some more. I was kinda stumped because I couldn't find the primer if it still has one. I hope to work on it some more this weekend. Hopefully, I get it started.
 
I have owned 3 DB tractors for many years, an 885, a 990, and a 995, and have worked them hard. Except for their aggravating 3 point hitch system I have found them pretty much bullet-proof tractors. Although I try to never use starting fluid to crank them, and generally don't, I have found that when I had to use it it didn't hurt anything if I got the motor turning over first, then sprayed a little ether into the air intake, waited for it to cycle down into the motor, get the motor running by doing that, then spraying a little more as the motor slows down, and repeating this method until the diesel starts running the engine. Never had a problem.
 
thanks Walter ,I am glad to hear of your procedure and think that possibly that is the best way to cold start or for that matter any out of fuel diesel that is difficult to get primed up,. You said a mouthful just mentioning the 3 pt hitch system.. I could use a few pointers on my 1210 .if you are willing to talk with me . i would like a ph number to discuss this trouble i have here ,,here is mine . 812-969-2123 , Thanks JIM H
 
I hope you have got your 770 running by now but just in case--- The primer pump sticks straight up on the rear of the transfer pump on the outside of the injection pump just ahead of where the plastic fuel line comes from the fuel tank. Loosen the bleeder screws or take them out being careful not to lose the tiny sealing washers, loosen the top of the primer pump till it is loose and will pull op, pump till clean fuel without bubbles till clean fuel flows from both screws, replace and tighten the bleed screws and pump to push fuel through the fuel rail in the pump and you should be good.
 
I have had 2 very early 1070s where the primer pump is on the rear of the filter base. Possible this 770 used the same set up?
 
Thank you RG, I have never seen that setup but it makes sense since the filter base by his description has the transfer pump relief which is new to me also, I was there from the very beginning on the 70 series and will check that out, all the ones I am familiar with obviously had the older style transfer pump routing, gravity to the first and transfer pump pressure to the second stage.
 
Thank you RG, I have never seen that setup but it makes sense since the filter base by his description has the transfer pump relief which is new to me also, I was there from the very beginning on the 70 series and will check that out, all the ones I am familiar with obviously had the older style transfer pump routing, gravity to the first and transfer pump pressure to the second stage.
 

Sorry I misspoke in my last post, I meant to say that I have never seen the old style hand pump and fuel routing as used on the 30 series on a 70 series, Guess I should proof read
 

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