1660 for sale in Wheeler, Illinois

Ande

Well-known Member
Thought someone on here might be interested: Link below
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a early model,, and another who does not know how to install the chopper drive belts,, if I am seeing it right they have a twist in the front but not the rear belt making the chopper run,, Backwards
 
Brings back fond memories. Looks to be well cared for. Tom: I don't see the chopper belt on wrong. On ours, I added an idler pulley close to the drive end because once in a while, the belt would jump off. The idler stopped that. Like all I have ever seen, the rear shaker mounts broke & tore up the openings. We also fixed that problem on ours. I do not understand the "mfg. tag". What is that referring to?
 
Not finding the tag you speak of yet John will look more, but I did find a pic where I see both belts are on the same and both are Wrong Always put a twist in them so they get Maximum "drive" on the pulleys,, right in the book,, yes I am am bit picky the 1160 I have the owner told me the chopper knives were junk as in green weeds it would plug all the time,, he had a twist int he front belt and not the rear the chopper turns backwards and throws the material up against the top of the straw hood I can get you picks of what it does in soybeans,, mine looks like you took a chipping hammer to the inside of the tin,, the knives were new on the correct side as they had never been used,, also had guys tells me belts would not last in heavy straw,, I say yes they burn up quick installed wrong lol I can dig out my chopper ops and show you what I mean,, that is why the idler unit can be tilted so when the belts pass each other they do not rub so hard
cnt
 
I always used OEM belts, so yes, I must have had the 2 belts "crossbelt". But still, the rear belt would jump off the drive pulley, so I added an idler. BTW, I cannot find a picture of the full side with the belts installed in the op. manual, just a sectional view in the parts book.
 
I have a ops for just the chopper but with me moving my stuff into my new Case room I am having a time locating it,, I never had any issues throwing belts even the 600 which has very worn narrow rolling over belts do not come off,, maybe something was out of alignment a bit?
cnt
 
Probably not. But this machine looks to be real nice, but I can't see anyone buying it for production. Especially for soybeans, with the possibility of rocks damaging the combine, especially the header & auger, ect. Maybe take it to a show & run wheat thru it. Kinda like buying a real nice 50 year old long nose Pete. You'd never run it hard everyday, especially in & out of a gravel pit. Having said all that, there are guys on here still using these machines.
 
(reply to post at 11:18:55 08/20/18) [/quot

Forgot to mention I have seen that machine
Pics are old
It doesn’t look that nice now
It’s been under roof but it has rusted a lot
He had two and I bought one 2 years ago
They both had around 1600 hrs
Dugger
 
I guess setting them up by the book was just how I did things, belt life is what would be the main issue and belt jump as John found,, I also set these up new, again its right in the Innes chopper manual,, if you know about belt drives the grip on the sheaves increases 20% or more doing this,, I also worked for 10 years at a industrial supply house,, it was always recommended to twist belts if you had so much distance between sheaves, in heavy straw with any green weeds from a 19" or 20' header you want all the power to the chopper you can have or you are unplugging it and replacing belts far sooner than need be,, I worked with dealers in MT and KS a number of times, these are Big small grain areas that sold LOTS of Case combines all of us talked about the belts on incorrect,, just like those who have no clue which way to install backhoe bucket teeth, I guess its a pet pi-eve of mine, but no big deal if you never seen the idler pulley design and asked yourself why it was made the way it is to allow the belts to not rub each other when twisted,,, I guess I am far more picky than others are about things,, just me I guess,, at meetings dealers always talked about these kinds of things, I guess you had to be in our shoes to understand
 
(reply to post at 09:27:18 08/21/18) [/quot

Tom I understand what you say
Here in the midwest we don’t have to do that
Our problems are keeping the knives or sections
On the chopper
Little stones knock knives off the drum
But belts are not a problem
I’m just giving you a hard time
Dugger
 
The first case combine I bought was the 1160. Belts on the chopper were shot from rubbing from being crossed. Put new ones on and ran them straight ever since on all Case machines here.
 
Here you go Dan,,, I added the straw length adjustment in "Case" some one did not have those instructions as well, this is for the 1010 unit but I also have the sheet for the later 60 series machines but the instructions are the same, this is the one I found first, takes a while to go through it all piece by piece lol
cnt
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I guess I am not blowing Smoke after all huh Dan? I have always went by the book on things like this,, first time I seen a chopper kit I wanted to know why the idler was made the way it was,, no reason for all the adjustments if it just tied the two belts together,, will it work with out a twist SURE it does but like I said try it with max header size and max straw intake,, belts did not last well at all,, at least here anyway, and here all I knew was to use the biggest header you could get,, if you had a bumper crop you slowed down,, we are also DRY for the most part when cutting here,,10-15% humidity and the grain has to be 13% or under or we do not cut it as we have no way to dry it out here, no need for grain driers,, the man I bought my 1160 flat out said the chopper was junk,,( it came from Appleton MN) he stopped by a year later on vacation and seen it running wheat, chopper working beautifully and said Wow that chopper you put on works GREAT! I said well its the same one O bought from you but its running the right direction now,, he said in the 20 years he owned it it never worked anything like that and I had a 18' header on it where he ran a 14,, I have a nickname here with certain folks,, "Tommy Tunes" I will let you decide what it means lol
cnt
 
Exactly Tom, I knew you had your ducks in a row, and also another reason, as I put the belt on myself once when I was young, and my Dad told me you have the chopper running backwards, and he took the time to explain to me why it needed the twist.

I have found your advise and ideas good for me to follow.
 
(reply to post at 07:07:55 08/22/18)

Tom
I’m sure you know more than I do about case
Machines
Im an infant on those
But remember when you tried to tell me my hub and sprocket were two pieces
Well it isn’t
Haha have a wonderful day
I do learn from you so keep up the good work
Dugger
 
Production changes to them happened a lot I do not know everyone. sorry for the misinformation, I am not saying I know everything about them any way shape of form,, there are still options and accessories I have yet to deal with,, I will refrain from commenting on these posts from now on
cnt
 
(reply to post at 07:43:52 08/22/18)

Tom
Please don’t quit commenting
We value your knowledge
I really do learn from you
But we all need to remember we are not perfect
I need people like you to remind me too
We need to get together sometime
Thanks again
Dugger
 
I saw both of those sell at an auction in 2012. The farmer who had them kept them in good shape. Did the one you get have the tow hitch he
made for them? I tried to take some pictures of it when I was at the auction, but I wish I would have taken more.
 

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