970 stuck brakes update

Got a 970 that's brakes get stuck in the activated position. I've currently got the discs, actuators and covers removed. Was told on here I might be able to drive the pin out after heating it with a torch. Neighbor came over with a torch set and he heated the pins glowing hot. I know traditionally you'd heat the metal around the stuck object but he was afraid the cast might crack on us if we heated those. So he'd heat the pin and then I'd go in with the air hammer. No luck on getting those pins to come out but we did manage to get the left side brakes working. Seems the torch got that one free. I then hit it with a bunch of penetrating oil while he worked the pedal and it moves up and down pretty well now.

The right side, while it moves still gets stuck in the up position. It seemed to activate pretty easily with the brake pedal but I had to use a mini sledge to get it back down each time. The return springs on that side seem pretty loose so my next plan is to try new return springs. Also going to remove and inspect the brake cylinder on that side and make sure it isn't binding. Also going to put all new actuator springs in. Not exactly sure how this brake system works but I'm guessing the actuator springs help pull those plates together which should also help pull the actuator arm down. Maybe with new springs it will do it with a little more snap.

Grew up with those tractors as a mechanic at a dealer, the pivot pins can rust fast keeping the arms from dropping down, I would take a small hammer and tap on the bosses on the brake housing while working PB Blaster into the pin, it can take some time to get it then coat it with engine oil to keep it from seizing again, if you have to force the arm down I believe the pivot is the problem, the cylinder could also be it but my experience tends toward the pivot

I have seen one pivot seized here since 1969 but we are a dry climate, if I was having issues with them I would add a drop of oil to the pivots every week or so,, once you get them free, the PB way mEl spoke of is my preferred weapon of choice in these cases,, I have also found PB in non aerosol form mixed 50/50 with thread cutting oil is Amazing as it will hold lube for a long time,, its also better if you are heating something than just PB as it does not just flash burn off,
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Got my new springs in, can anyone verify these are correct? I got them from Elmers. They don't have new ones listed for 70 series, 30 series only. I was on the phone with the guy and he said they only had used one, then he said, oh wait we've got new ones. The part number they sent me is A35789. Reason I ask is, while it's reasonable to think the 40 year old ones are stretched out, these new ones are way shorter.

That new one is also significantly lighter weight than the old one. Not the same part. Whether or not it might work is another story, really only one way to tell. But you won't be able to return it after it's been installed.

Yeah they fit but definitely a lot easier to stretch and install. So I'll probably try some of their used ones and hope they aren't stretched like mine.

Also have two more questions now. The diagram in the manual shows the cotter pin that attaches the actuator rod to the plates facing outward. Does it actually matter which direction that pin is installed? The only way to install it that direction is with the entire brake unit assembled and with it assembled I can't get the actuator rod to clear the hole in the brake arm, the angle is too steep. I've tried it a bunch of different ways but the only way I can get it installed is to first put the actuator rod in by itself and push it up and out of the way. Then put the plates on, put the large pin in from the opposite direction that's shown in the manual and install the cotter with needle nose pliers.

Question 2. The manual says to install the adjusting nut with 1/2" of thread showing. I did this and the brakes are too tight, they're dragging and I cant even get the parking brake handle to budge now. So do I just back that nut off until it feels right? I checked the parking brake cable and it didn't seem tight but I'm wondering if that needs to be adjusted.

There is a common hardware store spring that will work for those. Forget the brand, but they have a yellow tag. they are about 50% stronger than a new Case one. Cost about $3 fr two, versus $10 each.

Neighbor has a 770 parts manual, and if they use the same parts, that is the part number listed. Elmers charges $18 each for new ones and $8 for used ones. I'll start checking the hardware stores and see what I come up with.