Carb may have been changed. Find your carb model # and go with instructions for that.
Carb is OEM for sure, but I'm not sure about the jet. I verified the OEM carb # with the carb folks out of GA.
Idle speed is not mission-critical. Set as low as you can without roughness or stalling.
It idles at 500 RPM per the gauge cluster tach. I don't know how accurate it is. Does air/fuel come into play here? I would think it would and if I have the idle set too low and use air/fuel mixture to smooth it out, then it could be running too rich.
Dunno about throttle linkages, maybe one of the Case gurus might? How did you get a manual that doesn't cover your gas engine? But does cover the carb?
My service manual covers the gas and diesel engines in the 430/470 and 530/570 series tractors. There is one section within the manual that pertains exclusively to the throttle linkages, but only for the diesel engines. IIRC, the linkage that runs along the side of the tractor and hooks to the IP is 7-5/8" long. I was wondering if there's a dimension spec like that on the gas engines, but it would obviously hook to the throttle linkage on the carb and not an IP.
I don't understand your timing talk. Are you looking at a chart? Maybe you could scan it and post the pic? No difference between TopCenter and TopDeadCenter.
Yes, it's a chart in the service manual and it covers all engines found within the 430/470 and 530/570 series tractors. The Rated Engine Speed RPMs I mentioned are for the 148 cubic inch spark ignition (gas) engine, which is the engine I have in my '64 Case 440. Evidently there are two speed ratings for this engine. The correct (one or the other) speed rating can be found on a data plate on the tractor's engine. I have no clue as I literally found out about this drinking coffee yesterday morning before heading to a meeting. I've never timed a vehicle's engine at a speed rating before. In fact, I've never even heard of this before. I've never used static timing before. I've always timed a vehicle at a specified idle and from what I recall, it's Engine Idle Timing. I've always set the idle to the vehicle specific idle via carburetor adjustment per the idle on an idle meter, timed the engine with a timing light via rotation of the distributor, then check the idle again and the timing again. I've only timed two engines in my life - a 1962 Ford Falcon (learned how to do this when I was 15) and a 1989 Jeep Wrangler (did this when I was 19). I'm 37 now.
A weak spring on the points may cause a misfire at high rpm, probably not a problem on a motor designed to redline at 2400 or so.
OK, will disregard the spring tension bit.
But make sure your dwell is spot-on before setting the timing (50 degrees +/- 2 for a 4-cylinder, or read 25 on the 8-cylinder scale). Static timing is fine as long as you check your advance mechanism, turn the rotor by hand and you should feel a light spring at first then a heavier one and it should return smoothly to static rest. If that happens just set the timing static and rest assured it will advance as the rpm rises. There should be a little felt dot under the rotor, put a couple drops of oil on it. May be an oil cup on the side of the distributor also. You can buy a combo timing light/dwell tach if you want or just a cheapie dwell-tach, up to you, either will work. If you set timing with a light, use the static spec at the lowest idle you can manage, then check advance at the given rpm.
I'm lost with: (50 degrees +/- 2 for a 4-cylinder, or read 25 on the 8-cylinder scale). If you're referring to the angle at which the distributor rotates and the points are at its max open point, I would think a 4 cylinder engine would be 45°, a 6 cylinder engine 30° and an 8 cylinder engine 22.5° because it's 360° rotation divided by the number of cylinders. That's strictly at the midpoint of the lobe on the distributor. That's before taking into account the timing advanced or retarded, but that's application specific. ???
I have the side oil cup w/ cap on my distributor.
[u:f27a2fe483]Does this sound right?:[/u:f27a2fe483]
1.) Discover which engine speed rating I have on my engine, either 1,700 RPM or 2,000 RPM, per service manual chart. Remember static timing spec per discovered engine speed rating.
2.) Rotate the crank until it's in the middle of the D|C mark and see where I'm at on the lobe. I believe it should be at the very beginning of the lobe that would fire Cylinder #1.
3.) Rotate the crank until the points are wide open (center of lobe) and reset my gap to 0.020".
4.) Start the engine and let it warm up.
5.) Set the idle, which is either as low as I can set it and have it run or between 600 and 650 RPM per the service manual.
6.) Check the timing with a timing light at the aforementioned idle and adjust it via distributor rotation to the static timing spec which pertains to the engine speed rating on my engine.
7.) Reset idle to previously mentioned idle speed.
8.) Recheck timing.