This is bothering me

Ande

Well-known Member
One of the "930"s heats, this was on a 80 degree day, the belts are snug, pulleys good, new coolant, new OEM thermostats, and sending unit. Ok, is it time to pull radiator? I don't like it.
a274855.jpg
 
Carefully pressure wash it...dust/dirt buildup externally between the cores, even though it may not be visible, will really deter cooling....Worth a try unless you have already.
Good luck
 
Had one running warm here and put in 3 gallons of vinegar and finished with water. Worked it awhile and back flushed thru the block drain and is fine now. Like was said, make sure the fins are clean. Hard water causes a buildup in the tubes and vinegar is enough acid to help clean it up. Worked for me...your results may vary.
 
451 CUBES is right on the money, but also, what I have done on 2 of our tractors and a truck is to install 160 degree T'stats & drill a couple of holes in each of them to create a by-pass. The by-pass allows the hot water to reach the T'stat sooner, thus opening the T'stat sooner.
 
I have but it was before I put in new OEM thermostats and sending unit, but need to do it again
 
Yes Steve I have seen this done and it has worked, guess I need to decide which is the best path
 
I installed 190 degree thermostats, OEM, as "they" (CNH) decide 170 wasn't necessary any longer. If I was to put 160 in, wouldn't you need to change the sending unit also?
 
Absolutely not. The sending unit simply monitors the coolant temp. Get those 190 T'stat's out of there before you cook the engine. When everything was new, 170 or 180 stat's were fine, but 50 years later, the cooling system is not as efficient as when new. You most likely have build up in the radiator as well as in the engine. Do what 451 CUBES says & do what I say w/ the T'stat's and see if your problem is solved.
 
My 1030 ran that warm. I had the water pump bearing give out and put a fan in the radiator.I bought a new pump and put in new 160 thermostats and had radiator fixed. ( the radiator shop said the radiator was clean inside other than the fan damage) I changed sending unit but still ran warm. I bought 2 new 160 thermostats and drilled 2 small holes in each. Now runs at 190 even on a hot day
 
Water pump is good and tight, we flushed the radiator, but when John and you brought up drilling out the thermostats that sound like a good idea, wonder if I could stay with the OEM 190 degree thermostats,,,, or if I should look for 160s and how about the sending unit. Thanks for the post
 
Nothing wrong with a 160 stat but your mileage may vary. From past experience, after installing one I would periodically check that the crankcase does not start to develop condensation. Had that happen to a 2N I own. Changed it to a 180. Have a 160 in an S10 4X4 Balzer with a V8 where it works like a charm.

My guess is that the operating temp, in spite of the T-stat's opening point needs to be hot enough to cook-off condensation. My $.02.
 
I had two tractors (430,1175) do the same, found it was a bad ground between the gauge and dash. They would drop 20 degrees if I dug a little with my pocket knife between the gauge and the dash. I cleaned and tightened and they were good.
 
John, I'm leaning towards changing the thermostats to 160, drilling like you and others have said, and taking the radiator out and have it cleaned and checked. Thanks John for the advise
 
Yes, Scott, I see your point, guess that could be a issue also, and my eventual plan is to use this tractor in the winter, but could put something on the grill also. Thank you
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top