Re: Wanted: Case 430 PS control valve

I can address this cylinder only as it is mounted on Case wheel tractors. I don't know if you have the identical cylinder on your forklift, that is something you will have to determine by these pics.

First some questions, did you have equal wheel swing in both directions before the seals replacement? Are your tie rods adjusted to have the wheels straight ahead when the piston spool is in mid travel in the cylinder control valve? In other words the drag link is not holding the spool out of neutral.

Pull the grease fitting #35 at the bottom of the valve actuator and see if that makes any difference. The original zerk had a very short thread and most modern zerks are threaded longer and can bind the actuator #30. Check that the tie rod is turned into the outer sleeve 3 full turns showing in the slot (disregard 1? setting in my pic).

When the dust cover is on the valve actuator and you're stroking with the drag link it is very difficult to determine that the valve spool is fully stroked. Spool travel is very narrow, less than a 1/4" total so it doesn't take much to cause problems. Pull the drag link & dust cover off. Jack the wheels off the ground, engine running, stroke the actuator both ways with a screwdriver. If the wheels move both right & left equally, the valve spool or actuator may be binding and the drag link is just leaning the ball stud rather than fully stroking the valve spool.

If the valve spool strokes fully in one direction and very little in the other, adjuster nut #24 is not set right and/or pin #23 may have been broken when assembling, obstructing spool movement.

If the valve spool seems to be stroking near equally in both directions but wheel swing is unequal, you can change the position of the adjustment nut #24 to center the spool in the valve body. I don?t remember which direction to turn the nut relative to wheel swing. My 310 adjusting nut is up tight and backed off between ? & ? turn. This is a often a tedious, messy job due to individual cylinder slop and wear. Careful with pin #23 on reassembly, it is easily broken and will obstruct spool movement in one direction, use heavy grease to hold in position while bolting up.

I would verify the pump pressure before trying to adjust the valve spool travel.

Joe

Thanks for all the info Joe. Yes mine is like the pics you added except for the drag link. It worked good before I started to change the orings, it centered, equal travel.... all good. Where I messed up (learned my lesson) was when I was took the spool off to get the orings of the one end, the adjusting nut turned on me and I didn't know it. The spool was also sloppy on the bolt, a lot of free play which didn't seem right at all. I didn't touch any of the other parts like the ball joints, tie rods.....

So 2 questions:
1. Is the small nut that holds the spool to the bolt supposed to be pretty snug so the spool will spin freely on the bolt, or a lot of slop (3/16" was what it was) for the spool to travel on the bolt? Perhaps does the spool self center with pressure? I'm thinking it should be snug but spool should spin on the bolt.
2. On the orings and spacers/thick washers that go on each end of the spool (#15/11 & #12/16) I put the spool in and and slid in the oring and then the spacer/thick washer so that it was flush with the outside of the valve body. Is that all that gets done with those? The one on the spring end is popping out on me when I put pressure to it and I'm not sure what keeps it in there. But with me being out of adjustment I'm guessing the spool is forcing it out? If 1/8" of travel each way I think the seal and spacer/thick washer will stay in.

I've been hooking everything up and using the steering wheel to stroke it so I might be stroking it to far with the cylinder full of air... and pulling the seal out when stroking it. I'll do it manually this next time.

Thanks Again - Much Appreciated!
Mike

I just noticed that I don't have a shim #21. Some one else was in this cylinder before me. Any Idea how thick that shim washer should be? I'm assuming it should be slightly smaller diameter than the spool and nest inside the larger washer? Thanks Again

This spacer?

I haven't really had a chance to read and think about what you wrote last night. I have one of these control valves in the shop that I haven't gotten to yet. I'll check & post later on today.

Joe

Yep that's the one Joe. I see this is calling out for a Big Oring between the valve body and the outer sleeve/end cap.which I don't have either.

I'll have to dig deeper on that as well. I don't think I have any grooves for.that oring.

No need to hurry to check that out. I won't get. back on it for a few days. Thanks!

Forgot I had this pic.

The small end of the spool enters the bore in the ram for full travel.

Joe

Past my bed time.

Pic1 Spacer #21 OD & ID is not critical but thickness of 1/8" should be very close. Spool seals #11 & #12 are not O-rings as listed, they are V type seals commonly used in spool valves.

Pic2 Ram side of spool end is smaller than actuator side smaller seal #11 & bushing #15.

Pic3 Actuator side large spool end larger spool seal #12 & bushing #16. Other parts in sequence as shown. The spacer #21 is sandwiched between the flat ends of the spool and the adjustment nut #24. The instructions indicate that the adjust nut is screwed up tight and backed off to the nearest hole for the locking pin #23. That is probably fine for a new unit but there may have to be some adjustment here to center the spool when assembled if not operating correctly. The ram piston end will have inherently more force with equal pressure than the rod end due to the difference in cross-sectional area exposed to the pressure so the right/left swing speed will be slightly different.

Pic4 Control block ram end showing the kit 3 small O-rings location. To remove the relief valve pry off the cap, use a screwdriver to unscrew the valve cage.

Joe

That is awesome Joe. More than I hoped for. I pulled it off tonight again and was playing with it and I was quite confident the parts pages I got off cases site were messed up. You confirmed it. I don't have the V seals which should help leaking.

Thanks Again feel like I might get it working again.
Your a good man!

Joe thanks for the wealth of knowledge you shared. With you info, the backwards parts pages from CNH website and some IT manuals I got from a local repair shop I was so happy to get it working after about 30 tear down and put togethers
of that valve. A big wahoo.
I ended up w/ the small end of the spool towards the cylinder. Threaded in the spring adjustment nut in all the way and ended up with a 1/16 spacer washer (really a reagular 5/16 washer) and that was the ticket.


Thanks again!
Mike

Good to hear Mike.

Great info Joe! Any part numbers for the seals 11 and 12?