Case 1070 Engine re-build

have a case 1070 that has a coolant leak some where that fills the crank case. Think its a sleeve O ring failure but wont know till we get into it. Tractor is in very good shape and low hours (less than 3500 Hours). Runs strong, power shift good, just can tell she hasn't been worked hard and probably sat for long periods.

The big problem is cash. Local mechanic figures $3,500 on the low end up to $5,000 depending on what is found, assuming the block doesn't have to come out. splitting and working the block adds another $3k or so. Just getting it there and taking a apart to identify the issue will cost some a decent amount i suspect. Not dogging the mechanic, time is money, and even if slightly high probably not very much, So.... Options

What are the odds that a medium skill mechanic such as myself could tackle this? I think by pulling the pan I can narrow the leak to the affected cylinder(s), pull head(heads) and identify if it is rings, gasket, sleeve, or o-rings. then make a call on just replacing the affected hole(s) or to just redo all six.

Any thoughts, in particular any gotchas in doing this would be appreciated.

Hate to park it in the trees, but also hate to have a ton more money in it than it is worth.

Thanks

Your odds will improve if you pick up a FACTORY published shop manual. No Jen Sales, IT type stuff. I
have a 2nd copy if you want to drop an email........

I've done several successfully, my 1030
this spring. I did have my 1030 spin a rod
bearing the first time I did it last year
tho, but I never found a reason for that
and it has been the only problem so far..
If you get it apart and the sleeves and
pistons look ok you could just put in new
o-rings, rings, and bearings and likely be
fine on an engine with that low hours.

I would like to ask a question; When you say some coolant gets in to the oil are you talking about milky oil or is the amount of coolant so great to where you can drain
coolant from the oil drain plug, say every day?

Most oil ring leaks that I I have worked on made the oil milky or i could drain say a tablespoon worth of coolant from the drain plug. I once had a coolant leak that
filled a cylinder from a bad head gasket. i also had a coolant leak that filled the oil pan from a bad sleeve.

Initially I thought it was diesel in the pan since the oil was thin but not milky white (experienced that a few times in my racing days). The mech that I had out cracked the plug on the pan, he was positive it wasn't diesel (no scent of fuel) and was sure it was coolant, even after wiping his hands they were still sticky which confirmed coolant for him. I asked about the milky white not being present, but I guess the volume of coolant can take awhile for that to happen. Not a pro, don't know.

The volume is pretty high. first occurred I drained oil and had 1 to 1 1/2 gallon extra. Could be off. Book says it takes 5 Gallons, but 4 gallons puts it at full even after running it a bit.

It does have good Engine Pressure. In the yellow when cold and creeps to the green as it warms. Ran 5 to 6 hours, and would make its way to through the green and approach the red. Oil would be a inch or two above the full mark.

I think finding a bad head gasket would be awesome, but generally I am not that lucky and usually am fighting several problems at once.

From what you have said, I would make sure it is antifreeze first. If antifreeze the oil will be
milky and thicker, and you will be able to drain straight antifreeze out of the oil pan after it
sets a few days. If antifreeze you should be getting the antifreeze sweet smell from the breather
tube, and moisture will most likely be dripping from the tube. If it is 1 to 2 inches high on the
dip stick there should be gallons to drain out, and the radiator should be that much low.

A medium mechanic can handle it easy. But I have
to agree with others Does not sound like coolant
issue to me unless it is really draining the radiator. I
would pull the oil drain plug and put an empty can
under it for a day or two. Just to verify coolant vs
diesel. Also due to sitting, if it is truely coolant, I
would say you might have a pitted prong block
flange on the back cylinder. Clean it and put JB
weld and sand it smooth for the sleeve orings to
seal again. You can do it all by yourself. I have faith
in you.

If as someone said you ONLY get a small amount from engine every day get some BARS leak an mix it in hot water an dump it in engine an be
sure to run it for hour or so.It is a cheap fix for a start.Also i would drain antifreze an only have water in it till you determine fix as
antifreze is not good for bearings. We have used the stuff for long long time as a preventive. Doesent work these days with engines that
have water filters though.

(quoted from post at 19:58:54 06/08/18) If as someone said you ONLY get a small amount from engine every day get some BARS leak an mix it in hot water an dump it in engine an be
sure to run it for hour or so.It is a cheap fix for a start.Also i would drain antifreze an only have water in it till you determine fix as
antifreze is not good for bearings. We have used the stuff for long long time as a preventive. Doesent work these days with engines that
have water filters though.

Click to expand...

to update, have drained oil and put empty can underneath and topped off radiator. did drip some for the first day, but hasnt since. (filter draining?). since the oil pan filling was measured in gallons over full i would think if it was a sleeve gasket it would continue to leak? There was some anti-freeze to begin with, but should be significantly diluted now, so I am still struggling with the oil not being milky.