Case 430 steering

nyhillbilly · May 31, 2018

I have a 1967 Case 430 diesel. As soon as I start the tractos, I have a steady drip of power steering fluid coming from the right steering cylinder. Unable to find a cylinder ANYWHERE to replace it. Can they be rebuilt, and how hard a job is it? I noticed kits with bushings and seals for the cylinder, but is this something I can do myself? Plate serial # is 8313341, so I believe it is a 1967 anyway. All 3 of my tractors are down, need to get 1 running soon as it is planting season here in Western NY.

Case Nutty 1660 · May 31, 2018

Yes easy enough to rebuild the steering cylinders on the later twin cylinder 430/530 units,, removing them is the hardest part
cnt

ChevCase · May 31, 2018

Yes......getting cylinders removed is a little tricky, but it can be done with a little manipulation. I removed both of my cylinders and took them to a good hydraulic repair shop. Both were rebuilt and are no longer leaking.

nyhillbilly · May 31, 2018

(quoted from post at 11:17:26 05/31/18) Yes......getting cylinders removed is a little tricky, but it can be done with a little manipulation. I removed both of my cylinders and took them to a good hydraulic repair shop. Both were rebuilt and are no longer leaking.

Ok, what is the trick to removing the cylinder so I can take it in to a repair shop? Remove hydrolic line, easy enough, remove pin and nut on end, easy enough, trick to removing the ball end?

ChevCase · May 31, 2018

Don't remember all the details, but seemed like I needed to have front of tractor supported so axle was free to swivel and tie rods disconnected. This allowed turning each direction to allow cylinders to come out. Not near my tractor or manual.....sorry

Case Nutty 1660 · May 31, 2018

the ball end does not need to removed from the cylinder, just the castle nut holding the ball end in the axle frame, they are easy to rebuild also,, you just remove the hyd fitting and turn the rod as you look through the hole, when you see the end of the snap ring you take a screw driver and work the ring out of the grove and into the recess on the rod,, then it will slide out of the barrel, replace the seals and reinstall,,,in case you want do them
cnt

nyhillbilly · May 31, 2018

(quoted from post at 15:43:13 05/31/18) the ball end does not need to removed from the cylinder, just the castle nut holding the ball end in the axle frame, they are easy to rebuild also,, you just remove the hyd fitting and turn the rod as you look through the hole, when you see the end of the snap ring you take a screw driver and work the ring out of the grove and into the recess on the rod,, then it will slide out of the barrel, replace the seals and reinstall,,,in case you want do them
cnt

Ok, the end towards the drivers station has a castle nut, I removed that. Now looking at a threaded rod the castle nut was on, can not seem to move that in any fasion, even though there is a slot on the end, does not screw either direction. On the ball end, I see no nut of any sort ,castle or otherwise. Only see the ball into the hole on the steerinbg plate. Tractor has welded steel braces all uner the steering components. Less then 1/4" between the framework and the cylinder. All of that appears to be factory welded, so no way to remove for more working space.

Case Nutty 1660 · May 31, 2018

on the rod end of the cylinder you have to remover the lock and then screw out the nut in the end of the rod, at the back of the cylinder is a nut that should have a cotter key in it, remove the nut, think it takes a 3/4" wrench then raise the front end off the ground enough you can turn the wheels easy by hand, they only come out one way, and you have to roll the cylinder out of the from ball ( rod end) its either when they are fully out or fully in cant remember which for sure now
cnt

Case 430 steering

nyhillbilly

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Case Nutty 1660

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ChevCase

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nyhillbilly

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ChevCase

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Case Nutty 1660

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nyhillbilly

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Case Nutty 1660

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