Case Wagon Running Gear

pkreuter

Member
I am in the process of rebuilding a VWTA running gear. I have two questions. The reach tubes were very badly rusted so I am fabricating new ones from schedule 80 2" and 1-1/2" pipe that seem to telescope fairly well with each other. I notice that the old tubes seemed to have a split. I'm not sure if they were this way for a reason or is it just the way tubes were made and maybe the seam is rusted away. Secondly I need to rebuild the drawbar bolt. What was on there was a 1" rod with a spacer tube. I am wanting to rebuild it as the spring hitch version. In the spring hitch version is the drawbar bolt sized down to a 3/4" rod to allow for the thrust bushings?

Paul K.
 
The reach tube from the factory has a split from end to end. That split alloweds the wagon to flex when on uneven ground. not sure about the
hitch, I was thinking that they were both 1 inch.
 
Paul,

My VWTA running gear does not have the spring hitch option, but I do have the set-up manual that the previous owner received when he bought it new.

It says, "Spring Hitch-First remove nuts, sleeves, and spring from hitch bolt. Place one sleeve through the front plate on drawbar with washer end to the rear. The second sleeve is placed through the rear plate with washer end toward the front. Compress the spring between the two washer ends of the sleeves. Insert bolt through all, and replace the two nuts. Tighten first nut only enough to bring washer ends of sleeves firmly against ends of spring. Then lock with the second nut. Make sure that the hitch will now spring either forward or backward."

Wish I could be more help. Don
 
Here are pics from literature that may help you.
Loren
a264531.jpg

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a264533.jpg

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a264535.jpg
 
Sure that's a Nash? My first car was a 1960 Rambler American that looked exactly like that. Had trouble passing stop signs, but none passing gas stations.
 
AFAIC Ambassador, Statesman, and Rambler are all Nashes. My first mechanic job was pulling the HydraMatic out of my mother's '50 Ambassador for a "real mechanic" to fix it. That thing had 47 bolts holding the torque converter together, with one offset. Also had to drop the rearend to get the enclosed driveshaft loose. Pulled and installed it six times before he got it to sorta work.
 

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