want to buy: case vac motor

There is oil in the radiator fluid on my Case VAC-14 tractor. So, I'd like to purchase a complete motor that does not have this type of problem. Please contact me if you are parting out a running tractor.

Thanks.
Harold Evans

PS My email is open.

Why not rebuild your engine? Parts are easy enough to find

I would be happy to rebuild my engine, but I think the problem is a crack in the block. If I'm wrong, a rebuild would be a nice solution.

If it just started, an O-ring in one of the liners could have failed or even a bad head gasket.

What have you done to diagnose the issue? What makes you think it is a cracked block? Did the block freeze up over the winter? Overheat the engine?

I haven't done much to diagnose the problem yet, but I plan to do so. The reason I guessed a cracked block is because I know that there IS a crack in this block. About ten years ago, I hired a mechanic to
help me rebuild this engine and we found a small crack in the block. We did our best to fix the crack, but I think the repair might not have been quite good enough. We also had a problem with one of the
o-rings on a sleeve, as I recall. It pinched a bit but we did get it back on OK -- we thought. In addition, my mechanic had to leave the country for a new job before we had a chance to re-torque the head
bolts. Only after reading about the proper procedure later on did I realize that we never added that step. So, you see, I'm not quite sure what's causing the problem. I think it's about time to have another
mechanic look for the actual cause. The reason I thought of installing another motor is because of my concern for that original crack in the block.

I do know that the block did not freeze this winter. I always keep the proper coolant in all of my vehicles, and the tractor is also parked in a shed. I also know that this tractor has never overheated
because I only drive it a short distance down the driveway to collect the mail or around the field to take in some fresh air. I installed a new temp gauge years ago. She is a hobby tractor only. I have
another tractor that does all the actual work on my property, but I'd like to keep this VAC around for nostalgic reasons. She's family, you see.

I have a good runner in a tractor with trans issues call me on monday at 785 966 2739 days

Did you ever re-torque the head bolts? Where on the block is the crack? You can test the sleeve o-ring by removing the oil pan, and pressurizing the cooling system to see if any antifreeze is leaking past the sleeve seals.

Maybe the crack was thru an oil gallery into the water jacket ????
's the only way I can think of for pressurized oil to get in the coolant.
Usually, (slightly pressurized) coolant will go the other way (into the oil) thru the orings.

(quoted from post at 03:50:05 04/01/18) Maybe the crack was thru an oil gallery into the water jacket ????
's the only way I can think of for pressurized oil to get in the coolant.
Usually, (slightly pressurized) coolant will go the other way (into the oil) thru the orings.

Click to expand...

I agree with your logic, olddog. So, a good friend of mine just suggested adding something like Bars Leak to the radiator first, then re-torqueing the head bolts, and then, if that doesn't work, adding some water jacket sealer to the bottom of those passages in the block. I had never heard of that process before, but he said it's common in race cars and water craft. He warned that I should stick a straw of some sort up into the block drain port so that the block's water can still be removed after the sealer sets up.

Have you ever heard of this process before? I would hate to do this to a perfectly fine motor block, but it might be worth a try on this old engine that I might be replacing anyway.

(quoted from post at 17:44:17 04/01/18)

(quoted from post at 03:50:05 04/01/18) Maybe the crack was thru an oil gallery into the water jacket ????
's the only way I can think of for pressurized oil to get in the coolant.
Usually, (slightly pressurized) coolant will go the other way (into the oil) thru the orings.

Click to expand...

I agree with your logic, olddog. So, a good friend of mine just suggested adding something like Bars Leak to the radiator first, then re-torqueing the head bolts, and then, if that doesn't work, adding some water jacket sealer to the bottom of those passages in the block. I had never heard of that process before, but he said it's common in race cars and water craft. He warned that I should stick a straw of some sort up into the block drain port so that the block's water can still be removed after the sealer sets up.

Have you ever heard of this process before? I would hate to do this to a perfectly fine motor block, but it might be worth a try on this old engine that I might be replacing anyway.

Click to expand...

There was a process we used to seal leaky engine blocks. The stuff that was used was called water glass. I don't remember the technical name for the stuff. We bought it from a local pharmacy back then. If you do use something like that don't run the stuff through the radiator. It will plug it up tight and is hard to clean out of the cores. Do a google search for water glass and see what you can find.