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1494 PTO inop

F

Frantz

Member
We picked up our 1494 pretty cheap last year and the PTO doesn't work. I was hoping it was just the cable or something but I think I'm out of non-case splitting options. It seems the PTO Clutch cable is in good order and the on/off linkage seems right as well. Anything left to try before ordering parts and splitting her? Besides the regular clutch to look at, is there anything else one should consider when splitting one of these to take care of while it's torn down?
 
Everything depends on how the PO ran the tractor. If he ran it a lot with the lever up to disengage the PTO and didn't put the PTO shift lever in neutral and drop the lever back down, you could have lot of problems from the through out bearing to main bearing thrust bearing problems. You need to get it split and see what the real damage is.
Loren
 

He described it as working intermittently "but always got it working". He said he's engage and disengage it to get it to eventually work.

Its 2wd with cab and came with 469 haybine, 315 baler all for $7k... so I do have a little room to work. The haybine and baler work fine.
 
Lots of vagueness in "working intermittently". Does the PTO work if put in gear with engine off? Does the PTO clutch lever have a bit of free travel before you feel like you are pulling a big spring? If you put the PTO in gear with the engine off, can you turn the shaft by hand?

I wouldn't jump right into a split.several small things can be wrong(adjustments or PTO box itself).

Try to manually engage the PTO right at the PTO box. If it had ever been split for a clutch job, and the mechanic didn't have the PTO in gear, The sliding gear which engages the PTO will fall out of place.

Also pull the cover on the bottom of the clutch and see if anything falls out(bearing parts). or looks amiss, particularly the larger throwout bearing.
 

The PTO shaft turns by hand irregardless of if the lever is in the engaged or disengaged position. I have tried disconnecting the linkages and operating the levers that are directly tied to the case.

The tractor shows only 1900 hours, but I don't know about that. I know the guy I got it from didn't use it all that much but he only had it a few years. Some things seem in pretty good shape. He wasn't a mechanic though so anything he fixed sorta was done poorly (which I knew buying it).
 
If the resistance is the same with it in gear and out of gear, my thoughts given that info would be to pull the PTO box.

Reasoning.... When the clutch bearing goes you wouldn't be able to turn it by hand. If the disc was bad(normally a torn out center, could be a bad cardan shaft too) you would notice a difference in how hard the shaft was to turns(in versus out of gear). To be means that the shift fork is bad, or the engagement gear is out of place.

Pto box is a couple hours at a leisurely pace to pull. Splitting is a much bigger project.
 
(quoted from post at 20:05:35 02/25/18) If the resistance is the same with it in gear and out of gear, my thoughts given that info would be to pull the PTO box.

Reasoning.... When the clutch bearing goes you wouldn't be able to turn it by hand. If the disc was bad(normally a torn out center, could be a bad cardan shaft too) you would notice a difference in how hard the shaft was to turns(in versus out of gear). To be means that the shift fork is bad, or the engagement gear is out of place.

Pto box is a couple hours at a leisurely pace to pull. Splitting is a much bigger project.
Click to expand...

I'm all for trying that first! One last diag piece maybe though. If I crawl under when it's running and push the clutch lever as far as I can I do feel an engine speed vibration. The rest of the travel I don't really feel anything. I'm not sure if that has any meaning or not.
 
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