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1950 case vac

T

Tim boyd

Member
I am working on my 1950 case vac and I need HELP. The tractor will not stay running. It runs fairly OK when it starts up and shortly after it just suddenly quits,I can't catch it with the choke and keep it going. it is as if I turned the switch off.it seems to get worse the longer you run it. I have replaced the points and condenser, rotor, cap, wires,plugs,coil "internally regulated" and rebuilt the carburetor. With cylinder 1 at TDC my rotor is pointing at number 1 on the cap but my timing mark isn't in the sight hole. Being that it runs and the rotor is pointing to #1 I don't see that being the problem or is it. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Just recently I chased my tail round and round trying to solve an electrical problem, to finally find out it was a fuel problem. Check inside the fuel tank for something drifting over the fuel outlet then getting sucked down starving the tractor of fuel until suction releases (engine dies) then floats away. Allowing the engine to restart and the process begins again. I have heard of condensers getting hot and killing the engine only to restart when cool, but as I said, I've only heard of this not experienced myself. Its not all bad, having trouble. Builds experience, confidence, and humbles us too. gobble
 
Sounds exactly the same problem I had and it was fuel. You have to take the whole sediment bulb assembly out of the tractor and let the gas run out. I had strings of some kind in mine. Hard to corral until all the fuel was out and then they hung out the hole in the bottom. The bowl and filter looked clean though.
 
I forgot to mention that my tank was absolutely junk, so after months of searching for a replacement with no luck I ended up welding up a near perfect replacement and replaced the sediment bowl aswell
 
One more thing you could try with fuel. Those sediment bowls can get an airlock in them...or at least mine did. If you loosen the bowl enough so gas runs out the top. If that was the problem, the tractor should be running better right away. Once it smooths out, tighten up the bowl again. Someone else had a problem and they had put in an inline fuel filter. It was opined that since there is no fuel pressure except gravity, that certain fuel filters might not let the gas through. I have the cheap pleated inline filter and it works ok.
 
There is a fuel passage cast in the bottom of the fuel bowl. I have had that plug and it can be a pitch to clean. My symptoms were exactly like yours. The load screw seats into it. Check it out.
 
Tim, You said you replaced the coil with a internal regulated coil. On my dads 1950 VAC the coil is a 6 volt coil, this could be your problem. If it is fuel ,take the fuel in off at the carb and see if there is a good follow of fuel. Then you said your timing mark did not show at the site hole. Did you remove the distributor? .
 
You need to learn simple trouble shooting 101.
#1 fire it up and the moment it dies check the spark and make sure you have a good blue/white spark at the center wire of the cap and at all 4 plug wires. If you have that go to
#2. Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fil a pint jar in under 3 minutes.
#3 when was the last time you serviced the air cleaner if it is full or mud and water it will cause odd problems
 
Is there a drain plug on the carburetor? Remove it and check your fuel flow. Also make sure the gas cap is venting.
 
Thank you everyone for all the suggestions, the problem was the new sediment bulb. The new bulb would run a seady flow for about 20 seconds the reduce to a drizzle, installed a new petcock style shutoff and now it runs good. The lesson i learned was just because it is a new part does not mean it works right. Agin thanks eveyone
 
Someone else in Caseland mentioned those new sediment bulbs are junk. He tries to rescue old ones when he can.
 
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