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Re: Case 200B

The reason for that hole wasn't for a hand crank and 300s didn't have a cogged nut for a hand crank installed. The hole was there to put a drive shaft thru to drive a front mounted hyd. pump.
How ever it is feasible to put a socket with long extension on the pulley nut and turn the engine with a breaker bar, eliminating the need to remove the starter to rotate the engine..
Loren,
 
I grabbed a fan blade with one hand and depressed the belt with the other hand. Easily turned it over
I have also used the belt pulley shaft nut with a wrench. (Pulley was off)
 
Yes I have done hundreds that way also but a 200B-600B's are a bit tight, so I offered a much easier way than pulling the radiator off like the poster mentioned , I do not use the nut on the crank unless I have to as it is not as handy to stand there and see the timing marks,
cnt
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:28 11/06/17) Yes I have done hundreds that way also but a 200B-600B's are a bit tight, so I offered a much easier way than pulling the radiator off like the poster mentioned , I do not use the nut on the crank unless I have to as it is not as handy to stand there and see the timing marks,
cnt
Click to expand...
eah, one wire and two bolts, you can handle it.
 
I have no idea what gismo was used for a hand crank but you can see where it attaches if you look through the hole with a flashlight. It goes under the radiator. There is another piece of metal less than 6" inside the hole. I imagine the device is fastened to that piece of metal before going to the motor. It would have to be like a ratchet where it would only rotate one direction. Otherwise it would beat you to death when the tractor started.

I can't picture starting the tractor with a hand crank. With my 210b it's all I can do to turn that nut with a 12" cresent wrench.
 
You have had 3 viable suggestions on how to manually turn over your engine.
(1) remove starter, and turn engine with a bar placed in teeth of ring gear.
(2) put a half inch drive socket on front pulley nut of crankshaft and slide a long extension in the hole and turn with breaker bar.
(3) Engage PTO and put a wrench on PTO shaft and turn it.
They all will work
Loren
 
You all have been beating this around for a couple days so I decided to try it with the crank. I agree, I would hate to start one with a crank, but it would work fine for tune-up purposes. Would need to remove plugs and it would turn fairly easy and stay put. When it went past TDC it run away from the crank about 20 degrees even turning it slow. I had the switch off because I did not want it to try to start. Lee
 
I have never seen a crank set up for a 300RN or a Rock Island 100B series tractors. Can you supply some pics of the crank and cog system that allows the hand crank to release when engine starts???
Loren
 
The crank I have is homemade due to needing the extra length over the standard VA series crank. I have several RNs and 100b series and most of them have the same crank jaw as the VA series. Actually the parts book has it listed with the same VT pre fix # as the VA. One of the 200b does not have it but it had a loader with the front mounted pump. I am guessing (similar to assuming) the utilities may have had the flat pulley for the bolt on drive flange, and the GP units had the regular pulley with the crank jaw. Have a couple of RN diesels and I am pretty sure they don't have the crank provision. Been raining and windy here so I have not ventured very far from the house or shop plus it was about dark when I started checking for the set-up. Don't think I can get a picture of one on the tractor due to being so far back but if need be I can take one of some of the engines I have on stands. Lee
 
I don't know if I would try to hand crank any vehicle. I seem to remember people used to get seriously injured or killed hand cranking the old cars.
 
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