DB885 diesel cold start screw

ScottNC

Member
Is the cold start screw on the diesel fuel pump of a David Brown 885 removable without messing up something inside the pump? Mine is missing the "T" part so I'd like to install a new one. Figure it'd be easier to do the work on a bench.
 
Just do what Loren said, much easier than driving in a roll pin. Even a cotter pin would be enough, it does not need to be turned in tight anyway. Just make sure it's backed out when running or the advance won't work.
 
Bumping this up for advice due to a new twist.

When I attempted to install the wire key ring to replace the missing "T" in the cold start screw, I found the original "T" was broken off flush with the screw. No nub on either side. Using channel lock pliers gently, the screw was found to not willing to turn in either direction... so who knows in what direction it was last turned and is now stuck. This brings me full circle; can the cold start screw be removed without causing trouble inside the pump? If yes, how do I proceed?

Worthy of note since starting problems are what brought me here-but not germane to the topic, is that the valve lash was found to be off. A lot. @ 70 degrees the intakes were .022" and the exhaust had two valves with no detectable lash with tight rockers and one at effectively .000" with the rocker able to wiggle. Hope none of them is burned.
 
I hate to be a pest by bumping this up again. Hate to break things for lack of knowing any better too. As tempted as I am to try turning one of the two nuts at the base of the cold start screw to remove and free it... I am going to wait for someone to hold my hand and say it's okay.
 
See if you can tap out the old broken pin first. If tractor starts OK I'd leave it alone. For normal use it's turned OUT, and only turns about 3/4 turn from full out to full in to seat the sealing ball inside for cold starts. I have the seals to repair it if you have leak trouble, E-mail is open on Classic if you want to get in contact. A lot of DB pumps I repair most owners don't ever use the lockout feature anyway.
 
(quoted from post at 16:59:07 02/25/18) See if you can tap out the old broken pin first. If tractor starts OK I'd leave it alone. For normal use it's turned OUT, and only turns about 3/4 turn from full out to full in to seat the sealing ball inside for cold starts. I have the seals to repair it if you have leak trouble, E-mail is open on Classic if you want to get in contact. A lot of DB pumps I repair most owners don't ever use the lockout feature anyway.

Looks like a leverage problem to me. No bigger than the screw is to go tapping on it may be asking for trouble. That it will not turn either direction via pliers still leaves the question of which way was it turned when the "T" was broken wide open.
 

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