Progress on my 1030

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Was still above freezing today so I decided to get started on my 1030 engine. Got the block all cleaned out and got started with putting it back together. Plastigage on the mains shows .003-.004 clearance which is right where they should be. I had this crank turned and the mains are -10 and rods are -20.

I got the cam and crank in and torqued. I had an extra oil pickup tube so I cut one off and clamped on a hose so I could draw oil from a bucket and check for propper flow. I did that because I couldn't figure out why the bearings were starved for oil causing the failure. I took a short video of it turning by the starter. It's not turning very fast because its just hooked to jumpers from my dc, yes it's 12v. Looks like good oil flow so far. Couldn't see any coming out of the mains or cam bearings, but without the rods on, there wasn't much pressure.

Next step will be putting in the rids and pistons and checking oil flow again. Should be able to build pressure then.
a254446.jpg

a254450.jpg

Trial run
 
Did you ever figure out why the bearings were starved? I'm working on a 500 that did the same thing. The previous owner was running it on an auger, he shut it off for the night, came back the next morning and the motor was locked up. I bought it off of him and took engine apart. The bottom end ran out or was starved of oil. The bearings were shot and the crankshaft scored. I bought another crankshaft that was turned down like yours and installed new bearings with the proper clearances. The oil pump checks out too. Is there some sort of weakness in these engines that causes that or something to look at for?
 
I haven't found a reason yet. There is no issue with that as far as I know. I keep hoping something will show up.
 
(quoted from post at 12:40:28 01/22/18) I haven't found a reason yet. There is no issue with that as far as I know. I keep hoping something will show up.

Does the engine oil pump have a ball and seat type pressure relief valve? I'd take a close look to make sure the steel ball hasn't worn out of round causing the correct volume of oil to not make it all the way through the engine. There may also be some crud under the ball causing it not to seat well enough.

There is one other thing I'd like to point out to you, and that is keeping your hands clean while putting the engine back together. You are covering these expensive parts with gritty used oil. Keep clean rags in your shop to wipe your hands, and the parts, clean whenever they get too cruddy. I buy boxes of disposable shop towels at Farm & Fleet to use in my garage to help keep things clean while working on anything.
 
The oil relief is a longer plumger type.
The original showed a little wear so I got
a new one and a new spring. That pic was
taken as I was cleaning the next bearing
cap to install. I just remembered to take a
pic and did it then. For shop rags my wife
keeps me well supplied with clean rags by
picking up 100% cotton sheets and towels at
garage sales and cutting them up into rag
size pieces. I use them and toss them when
done. She gets them for pennies so they are
cheap.
 
Jon, I was wondering if you started to assemble the engine yet. Was wondering did one of the oil passages could of been plugged? With clearances that good and oil follow and pressure you had is a puzzler. Keep us updated on the engine. Jerry from OHIO
 
(reply to post at 20:32:36 01/21/18)

I try not to touch new bearing surfaces with my
Fingers
The oil from your skin will eat them up
You have to been extra careful when installing
New rods and main bearings
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top