vac fuel bowl leaking

kenbob

Well-known Member
Sometimes the easiest mechanical things confound me. I replaced the sediment bowl assembly in my VAC. It has the new cork gasket that came with it, but I cannot get it to drip any less that about twice in 15 seconds. ANy guesses what i did wrong? I think I have it really tight, but I am cautious that way and don't want to break the bowl. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.
 
Check the valve stem nut and give it a quarter of a turn. The reason I suggest this is it may not be the cork gasket leaking. Of course I?m not there seeing what leaks, but try that before you replace the cork gasket again .CM
 
If it is from the gasket area let it sit a while it is likely to stop when the gasket soaks up some of the gas and then swells if from the valve area make sure the packing nut is tight
 
Sometimes the solder/brazing that holds the threadlet in the bottom of the tank is cracked or loose from over tightening in the past. Usually shows up on bottom of tank but does work its way down the sediment bowl assembly and drip off the yoke. gobble
 
Thanks all. I am 99% sure it isn't leaking where it goes into the tank, or where it exits the bowl to the fuel line, but the shut off vavle is a possibility. it faces away from what I can see so that might be it.
 
If it leaks where is screws into the tank you may need to tighten it a bit more. If at the gasket what I do is drop it into a small pan of gas and let it sit a few minutes
 
I am for letting the gasket soak some. Also check the top of the bowl where it mates with the gasket for a minute crack.

Joe
 
I had 2 new bowl asy. that the surface where the glass fits up to that were not machined even. Two gaskets would not stop the leaks. Returned them for different ones that were machined right. Another problem that I had was I over tightened the " bail" On one and that warped the base. Another trip to town to return it , Sheeshhee! clint
 
Most sediment bowls are soft "Pot Metal" and it's very easy to overtighten
the bail and warp to base. If you used pliers, it's warped.
 
I had an old fuel bowl leaking and just wanted a new gasket. By chance, I asked my NAPA store if they carry them. Guy walks over to one of those rotating racks and pulled one off. It was rubber (neoprene or whatever) which I prefer over cork. Something you might want to try if you give up on the cork.
 
Bowl no longer leaks thanks to Wicksfield. It wasn't quite as easy as for him. We only have O'Rielly. Took in old gasket and they didn't even look and said they didn't have it. Went to the hardware store and found a big rubber washer of the right size but with only a small hole in the center. I used the old as a template, cut it out and put it in. It does not leak at all and with a lot less pressure on the bowl. Thanks
 
My O'Reilly's has them so yours can get them. There called a fuel bowl strainer gasket part #398. I buy them all the time at my Local O'Reilly's and when in to buy them I buy all they have on hand and that way I always have them when I need them
 
If the rubber washer isn't gasoline resistant it will be leaking again. If it is gasoline resistant doesn't shrivel like a prune you are good to go. If it does shrivel and you are back to base one, you could hunt around for a good used sediment bowl body. I guarantee an old unabused one is better than the new ones we buy. I hoard all the old sediment bowls and bodies I can get my hands on. When you are tightening the bowl give it a very slight back and forth twist right when the bowl makes contact with the gasket. Sometimes the gasket seats better this way though it's not foolproof. I keep a 3/16" thick sheet of cork gasket material around so I can make my own gaskets.
 

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