Eagle hitch.

Stephen Newell

Well-known Member
How difficult is it to get the parts and overhaul the hydraulics on a Eagle hitch. I've got hydraulic fluid coming out the housing where the brakes are. It appears in the parts book it has a piston with steel rings instead of O rings like the cylinders did.
 
(quoted from post at 03:01:04 11/29/17) How difficult is it to get the parts and overhaul the hydraulics on a Eagle hitch. I've got hydraulic fluid coming out the housing where the brakes are. It appears in the parts book it has a piston with steel rings instead of O rings like the cylinders did.

What model of tractor are you working on?
 
Yes, hydraulic oil is getting on the brake shoes and coming out the housing. It's strange, most of the time it just leaks a little and sometimes a lot. One day when I got done using the tractor it looked like it was leaking bad so I put an oil change pan under it and I think it leaked a gallon that night.
 
(quoted from post at 13:48:28 11/29/17) Yes, hydraulic oil is getting on the brake shoes and coming out the housing. It's strange, most of the time it just leaks a little and sometimes a lot. One day when I got done using the tractor it looked like it was leaking bad so I put an oil change pan under it and I think it leaked a gallon that night.

It's leaking hydraulic oil, but it doesn't have anything to do with the hydraulics. The problem is the oil seal on the differential shaft that the brakes are attached to. Not a difficult job to fix. If the brake disc have enough material on them to use again, you will need to get the oil out of the brake material. I've done this by first washing as much of the grease off the disc as you can with gasoline and a brush. Then place the brake disc in a metal container, a tin bucket works well for this, and pour gasoline on the brake disc and into the bucket. A half gallon of gasoline is sufficient. Then light the gasoline, and let it cook the oil out of the brake disc and burn it off. After they cool rough up the disc with course sand paper.
 
(quoted from post at 15:20:48 11/29/17) How exactly do you light the gasoline?

As safely as you can. On calm days you can throw a lit match at the bucket from a safe distance. You can also dribble a trail of gasoline away from the bucket and lite that on fire, after you place your gasoline can away in a safe place. Make sure you place the bucket out on the driveway away from anything you don't want to catch on fire.
 
To answer your question about the 3pt piston leakage, you will have to remove the rockshaft housing from the top of the tranny. You will have to remove the lift arms from the rockshaft and the shaft will slide out of the housing. Once the shaft is out, the piston should slid out the back of the bore. May need a bit of air pressure to help it out. There were several versions of pistons used. I have had good luck just taking piston to local hyd. shop and they have matched up the seals. CNH has ridicules prices for the seal kits.
As far as the brake /differential seals are conserned, you may need to remove some shims on the brake quills, and reset the ring and pinion gear lash. This should be done while the rock shaft housing is off. You should have a SM so you can set the rolling torque and gear lash.
As for salvaging the brake discs, I believe that there are much better ways than described below.
For your parts needs, (seals, brake springs, disc, etc.) I recommend that you call our Case friends the Saeli's 3155859826
Loren
 
I don't think there is a reservoir there for hydraulic fluid. From the parts book it just appears to be a hydraulic cylinder with a piston. I don't know how it could sit there not running and leak. I think if it were leaking oil there it would be transmission oil which would be 80w90 but this is a lot thinner so I know it's hydraulic fluid.

Also the tractor was leaking oil there when I first bought it and all the seals were replaced in 2011. I think there is suppose to be 80w90 oil there and the hydraulic fluid is thin enough to get past the seals.
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Stephen: Loren is correct, you cannot go by the parts book in determining which seal configuration CASE used for that piston. I think we are up to 5 different configurations. We stock seals & rings for all of them. The quickest way to tell if the piston is leaking is to raise the arms up w/ a load, shut the engine off & see if they settle. I have seen the seals bad enough, that the arms would settle with no weight on them.
85 W 140 is the preferred lube to use in the tranny-diff.. When your 200B was built, that lube was not developed yet. Regardless of the piston seal, and how the thin oil is getting in there, your differential shaft seals need attention. With the shaft exposed, and discs off, simply grab the shaft & see if there is excessive end play. If not, there are short cuts to replacing the seals.
 
I'm with Loren ACG on this one. There are better ways to salvage the brake discs than setting gasoline on fire.
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:39 11/29/17) To answer your question about the 3pt piston leakage, you will have to remove the rockshaft housing from the top of the tranny. You will have to remove the lift arms from the rockshaft and the shaft will slide out of the housing. Once the shaft is out, the piston should slid out the back of the bore. May need a bit of air pressure to help it out. There were several versions of pistons used. I have had good luck just taking piston to local hyd. shop and they have matched up the seals. CNH has ridicules prices for the seal kits.
As far as the brake /differential seals are conserned, you may need to remove some shims on the brake quills, and reset the ring and pinion gear lash. This should be done while the rock shaft housing is off. You should have a SM so you can set the rolling torque and gear lash.
As for salvaging the brake discs, I believe that there are much better ways than described below.
For your parts needs, (seals, brake springs, disc, etc.) I recommend that you call our Case friends the Saeli's 3155859826
Loren

Loren,
Just wondering, how does a leaky hydraulic piston leak oil out of the brakes? Burning grease out of brake disc using gasoline has worked for me on many greasy brakes over the years. How do you get the grease out of the brake disc linings?
 
The rockshaft piston is located on top of the trans. housing. When it leaks it leaks into the transmission housing and overfills it, and it runs out the differential shafts. Simple as that. It has been discussed here a hundred times. The only other way for hydraulic oil to get from the torque tube to the rear differential is the seals where the PTO and trans input drive shafts enter the diff housing.
A torch with light flame works to burn the oil out of discs, but more than likely new discs are in order.
Loren
 
(quoted from post at 02:52:06 11/30/17) The rockshaft piston is located on top of the trans. housing. When it leaks it leaks into the transmission housing and overfills it, and it runs out the differential shafts. Simple as that. It has been discussed here a hundred times. The only other way for hydraulic oil to get from the torque tube to the rear differential is the seals where the PTO and trans input drive shafts enter the diff housing.
A torch with light flame works to burn the oil out of discs, but more than likely new discs are in order.
Loren

That's what I was thinking. That the PTO seals were flooding the transmission and final drive. Causing oil to exit through the brake seals. I don't remember Stephen saying he was having trouble with the eagle hitch bleeding down, pointing to eagle hitch piston leaking.

The first time I fixed Case brakes was on an old SC I owned 35 years ago. I didn't have much back in those days, so I had to come up with ways of getting things done without proper tools, like a torch. My method worked for me then, so it kind of stuck as to how I got the oil out of the brake disc. So don't look at me as some kind of hack. I did what I had to do to get things fixed. You on the other hand probably always had a nice shop space to work from, and all the tools you could ever use.
 
(quoted from post at 05:11:08 11/30/17) whew ,, i bet that does work ,, but i think an adult should be present ,before its lit .

My wife has my grandson monitor my activities, and reports to her whenever things gets out of hand. :lol:
 
I don't have a great deal of weight on the eagle hitch, I just have a 5' blade attachment. I can park the tractor and it takes a couple days for it to hit the ground. Now when I'm using the front loader it's constantly dropping. Every time I pick up a load of dirt I have to lift the blade. The hitch has been functioning in this manor since I've owned the tractor. I new it needed attention but was a minor nuisance.

When I worked on the brakes in 2011 I just washed the shoes several times with lacquer thinner until nothing would transfer to the rag. Until recently they have been working fine.
 
Bumer, I'm needing the tractor nearly daily. I hate to break it down and then try to figure out what parts it needs and then wait a week or so for parts. The tractor was down for a couple weeks lately with a starter problem, then hydraulic cylinders on the front loader and now this. I guess when I get that fixed the power steering will go out, it's already leaking fluid. I was just hoping I could arrange for parts for an overhaul before tearing into it. Oh well. I may have to wait until I get caught up on some jobs.
 
The hitch seems to settle faster when I'm using the tractor front loader. Just sitting with a 5' blade attachment it might take 48 hours to drop. Using the tractor it drops every time I pick up a load of dirt.

When I get the hydraulic oil problem solved I will change the tranny oil to 85w140. It probably has some water in it anyway. I put a new shift boot on the tractor in 2011 and I don't think it made it through 2012 before splitting. I don't know what it is with shift boots, I can't keep one on my jeep either.
 
(quoted from post at 15:20:30 11/30/17) The hitch seems to settle faster when I'm using the tractor front loader. Just sitting with a 5' blade attachment it might take 48 hours to drop. Using the tractor it drops every time I pick up a load of dirt.

When I get the hydraulic oil problem solved I will change the tranny oil to 85w140. It probably has some water in it anyway. I put a new shift boot on the tractor in 2011 and I don't think it made it through 2012 before splitting. I don't know what it is with shift boots, I can't keep one on my jeep either.

Does your loader operate off of the eagle hitch lever, or does it have a separate valve on the loader itself?
 
Shift Boots.....China $hit. We bought an expensive Boot from CASE and it said "Made in China". I don't have an explanation for the difference in how she acts running vs not.
 
Does the hitch use hydraulic pressure to make it go down when you are using it? I'm wondering if using the loader is causing hydraulic pressure problems at the hitch. If the control mechanism is leaking maybe the loader is putting some down pressure on the hitch.
 
The loader has a separate control mechanism on it. It has one lever for the lift and another for the bucket. Then the eagle hitch has a lever by the seat.
 
(quoted from post at 16:00:36 11/30/17) The loader has a separate control mechanism on it. It has one lever for the lift and another for the bucket. Then the eagle hitch has a lever by the seat.

Where does the loader valve gets it's supply of oil? Does it come from the eagle hitch credit?
 
The hydraulic pump is just behind the motor. There is a supply line going from it to the loader and another going to the eagle hitch. There is a fluid return line from the loader but none from the eagle hitch.
 
The 3pt hitch is a simple single acting cylinder. NO Down Pressure.
I am presuming that you have a selector/diverter valve in the line between the service valve under the fuel tank and the 3pt rockshaft housing to power the loader valve. plus a return line from ldr valve back to the torque tube. The selector valve prevents any oil from flowing to the 3pt. and should lock the hitch arms up. They can only drop if the selector valve is shifted back to 3pt operation, unless the piston seals are leaking. I am baffled by your statement about the 3pt leaking down, much faster, when using the loader, unless someone did not use the selector valve and you are just deadheading the 3pt cylinder, and causing the oil to flow through the loader valve. If this is the situation, you need to change it.
Can you post some pics of the loader plumbing, or draw a diagram of the plumbing and scan and post that here.
Loren
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(quoted from post at 17:10:26 11/30/17) The hydraulic pump is just behind the motor. There is a supply line going from it to the loader and another going to the eagle hitch. There is a fluid return line from the loader but none from the eagle hitch.

I suspect that the loader valve is tapped into the eagle hitch circuit, then goes from the loader valve power beyond outlet on to the eagle hitch. That would explain why your eagle hitch works in unison with the loader. I have a loader on my 530. The lift cylinders are operated with the eagle hitch lever, and the bucket cylinder is operated with the lever that controls the rear hydraulic outlets. There is a selector valve in the eagle hitch/lift cylinders circuit that you use to select between the eagle hitch, or the loader lift cylinders. You can run one or the other, but not at the same time. Does that look like what happens with your loader to eagle hitch?
 
I have no idea where the problem is and if there is more than one problem. The hydraulics for the eagle hitch are controlled right at the hydraulic adapter with a mechanical lever which goes back to the seat. The hydraulic pressure for the front loader comes from the front of the adapter but there is no controls there. The fluid is transferred to a control mechanism up by the steering wheel.
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Does your tractor only have one hydraulic lever on the right side of the seat? Do you have remote couplers on the back of the tractor to hook up an auxiliary cylinder?
 
The hitch just has the one lever and there is no other hydraulic lines going toward the rear of the tractor other than the eagle hitch.
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:16 11/30/17) The hitch just has the one lever and there is no other hydraulic lines going toward the rear of the tractor other than the eagle hitch.

You need to put a selector valve in your hydraulic circuit. Look closely at Loren's post again. The pictures will show you where it needs to be. The setup you have now is trying to run the eagle hitch and the loader at the same time. That's why the eagle hitch drops when you lift the loader. You need to block the flow of oil to the eagle hitch in order to run the loader. When you need to run the eagle hitch you divert the oil flow to the eagle hitch. The loader will be blocked from the oil flow while you use the eagle hitch.
 
After seeing that you have the Case industrial loader, the only thing that could cause the 3pt. to leak down when using the loader would be blown gaskets between the valve body sections, under the fuel tank. A leak there still puzzles me though. Does the lever which operates your 3pt. hitch work freely and return to center when you release the handle??? Also as bazar as it seams, make sure the seat or something that is back by the 3pt lever is not hitting the lever and lowering the arms when you are using the loader.
The brakes with that loader frame aren't going to be easy to work on!!!
Loren
 
The lever that works the hitch works very free and returns to center just like it is suppose to. The seat doesn't come close to touching the lever so that isn't a problem.

The brakes won't be a terrible job. The floor plates are removable which should give me more than a foot clearance between the loader. The worst of it is it's a job I had already done.

It does appear I'm going to have to tear into all of the hydraulic system and overhaul it. I don't know when I would be able to do it. I have so many projects I need the tractor for I can't take it out of service for a couple weeks to do these repairs.
 

If you can use the tractor as it is now, you can finish your projects now, and tear into the tractor later. Monitor the oil levels in the torque tube, transmission, and final drive to get an idea of where the oil is going. Or you could do like some of us do when faced with this kind of situation. Buy another tractor to use, and park the broken tractor until you get time to work on it. That's why I end up with more than one tractor.
 
I do have another tractor but it needs more work than the Case. I finally had to take the front loader off the Kubota because the front loader wouldn't stay up at all. It also I think the shift fork is bent and the tractor needs to be split. I have to turn the tractor off when shifting gears.
 

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