So that others may gain knowledge

chuck machinist

Well-known Member
My Case Friend, Gary Gaddy who I have never met was kind
enough to send me a 400 piston sleeve. I wanted to try and
hone this sleeve to gain knowledge of honing. These are my
results .I am somewhat pleased with what I've accomplished.
The sleeve is out of tolerance, so I said this would be a good
time to practice. I take all positive and constructive comments
of these results. How do you like me now! CM
a175521.jpg

a175522.jpg
 

Try pumping the hone up and down a little faster and see what that looks like. To me your cross hatching looks like you moved the hone up and down slower than desired.
 
I tend to agree, always like to see around a 45? maybe down to 30? is OK. What have you used as a
lubricant, or solvent to keep the stones open? I like WD 40, it's accessible and cheap. What grit stone
are you using? They appear aggressive........ Thanks for posting, it always gets the comments going
 
Oops, I was supposed to send a sleeve. It's still sitting there. I just forgot about it. Suppose I'm off your friend list now. :(
 
Morning fellows,
I used a 200 grit Stone on the LISLE Glaze Breaker tool, with Pensolv PB2000. I will get the 320 grit stones this afternoon and finish the procedure. I am looking to get a 32 to 45* crosshatch pattern , and yes , I will need to stroke it faster. Thanks for the comments. More pics tonight. CM
 
(quoted from post at 02:21:14 10/18/17) Oops, I was supposed to send a sleeve. It's still sitting there. I just forgot about it. Suppose I'm off your friend list now. :(
HEE .STILL ON TOP JON!
 
Plenty of good solvents to use, just as long as they keep the stones clear or clean. Lot's of scrubbing with hot soapy water has to follow the hone, I like Simple Green, it seems to work well. You're done scrubbing when a rag shows no debris as you wipe........ I use a Sunnen rigid hone or a ball hone depending on the need. That's my process, and there are plenty of ways to get the job done.
 
I usually shoot for a 20 degree angle, and it looks like you about hit it. If you want a higher angle without having to explain to the old lady why one bicep's twice the size of the other, slow the drill down a bit. The fact that it's out of tolerance was obvious to me at first glance, the ridge is a dead giveaway. I'd still use it in a pinch, though, it's not a BMW and you're not looking for 7-8000 RPM. I hold the drill with one hand and a can of spray brake cleaner with the other, when I'm done a quick wipe with an oily cloth is all it needs, grit's all flushed away. I like a 220 or 280 grit stone. I do not like monkey balls, they don't smooth out irregularities, instead they hide them. Another couple shots with your hone and that ridge would be gone, with monkey balls it would just be hidden but a mic would still show it and it might be bad enough to break the top ring. Don't think this one is, but what about the next?
 
(quoted from post at 19:49:24 10/18/17) A ridge reamer can take out that ridge before honing it.
Yes, but you'll then need oversize rings at least. The sleeve will still be over spec. Just using OS rings can lead to piston slap. Nothing like doing the job right...
 

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