Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
It was suggested I start a new thread because the other one was getting too big.
A recap, I've been having trouble starting my 210B tractor since I've had it and steadily getting worse. The tractor if it sits for hours will start instantly but if you turn it off and try to restart it the engine will only turn about 1/4 revolution and come to a complete stop.
1. The original starter was doing this and someone suggest I take it apart and clean it so I did that and
afterwards won't turn at all, not even on the bench. I couldn't find someone at first to rebuild the starter so I
bought a used starter and found it was working the same way so I think the problem is with the tractor instead of
the starter.
2. The battery cables are relatively new and sufficient size so that isn't the problem and the start solenoid was
just recently replaced with a heavy duty one.
3. It was suggested maybe the battery was bad so a second battery was installed. I have also tried jumping the
tractor off of a running vehicle directly to the starter.
4. It was suggested maybe the tractor was binding with the flywheel and maybe needed to be shimmed so I loosened the
starter and it didn't help.
5. Someone asked if I could turn the engine over by hand. This afternoon I removed the radiator so I could get to
the engine and I can turn the engine with a 12" crescent wrench but it's really hard to do it. I haven't tried
that without the spark plugs. If it didn't take a 1 1/2 socket I would put a torque wrench on it to measure how
much pressure. Just guessing I would say it's in the 100lb range.
6. It was suggested there may be an issue with timing and that is still in the works. One problem is my tractor
doesn't have an indicator pointer.
From the other thread L.Fure wrote:
The numbers you are seeing are degree marks. According to the I&T repair manual these are the numbers you need to set the timing at. 0 degrees @ 275rpm. 1 degree @ 300rpm. 8 degrees @ 475rpm. 12 degrees @ 800rpm. 13 degrees at 875rpm. Your static timing mark is DC. You should static time the distributor before you use the timing light to fine tune the timing with your light. Bring number one piston up on the compression stroke, then line the DC mark with the pointer on the side of the hole. Next you will have to hook an ohm meter or a test light to the points. Do not turn on the ignition if you use an ohm meter. After to have either hooked up turn the distributor until the needle on the ohm meter moves, or the light begins to flicker. Tighten the distributor clamp and see if the engine will start easier.
Few problems trying this, I don't have a timing mark on the tractor, the numbers under the timing light jitter so bad I can't read what they are. Then I don't have a way to determine engine speed.
From the other thread mEl wrote:
What kind of a timing light do you have, A modern advance style will make your job much easier. If I were you I would remove #1 plug and very carefully turn the engine till the piston gets close to TDC then look carefully in the timing hole and see if yo can locate a TDC scribe line, once you find it take a drill with a 1/4 inch bit and put a small drilling mark on the flywheel at TDC, then put a dab of white paint on it. Once you have that if you have a advance light you can set that at the desired running timing and turn the distributor till the light flashes at the white mark nlock er down
The timing light I have is a simple cheap light I maybe have had for 30 years.
A recap, I've been having trouble starting my 210B tractor since I've had it and steadily getting worse. The tractor if it sits for hours will start instantly but if you turn it off and try to restart it the engine will only turn about 1/4 revolution and come to a complete stop.
1. The original starter was doing this and someone suggest I take it apart and clean it so I did that and
afterwards won't turn at all, not even on the bench. I couldn't find someone at first to rebuild the starter so I
bought a used starter and found it was working the same way so I think the problem is with the tractor instead of
the starter.
2. The battery cables are relatively new and sufficient size so that isn't the problem and the start solenoid was
just recently replaced with a heavy duty one.
3. It was suggested maybe the battery was bad so a second battery was installed. I have also tried jumping the
tractor off of a running vehicle directly to the starter.
4. It was suggested maybe the tractor was binding with the flywheel and maybe needed to be shimmed so I loosened the
starter and it didn't help.
5. Someone asked if I could turn the engine over by hand. This afternoon I removed the radiator so I could get to
the engine and I can turn the engine with a 12" crescent wrench but it's really hard to do it. I haven't tried
that without the spark plugs. If it didn't take a 1 1/2 socket I would put a torque wrench on it to measure how
much pressure. Just guessing I would say it's in the 100lb range.
6. It was suggested there may be an issue with timing and that is still in the works. One problem is my tractor
doesn't have an indicator pointer.
From the other thread L.Fure wrote:
The numbers you are seeing are degree marks. According to the I&T repair manual these are the numbers you need to set the timing at. 0 degrees @ 275rpm. 1 degree @ 300rpm. 8 degrees @ 475rpm. 12 degrees @ 800rpm. 13 degrees at 875rpm. Your static timing mark is DC. You should static time the distributor before you use the timing light to fine tune the timing with your light. Bring number one piston up on the compression stroke, then line the DC mark with the pointer on the side of the hole. Next you will have to hook an ohm meter or a test light to the points. Do not turn on the ignition if you use an ohm meter. After to have either hooked up turn the distributor until the needle on the ohm meter moves, or the light begins to flicker. Tighten the distributor clamp and see if the engine will start easier.
Few problems trying this, I don't have a timing mark on the tractor, the numbers under the timing light jitter so bad I can't read what they are. Then I don't have a way to determine engine speed.
From the other thread mEl wrote:
What kind of a timing light do you have, A modern advance style will make your job much easier. If I were you I would remove #1 plug and very carefully turn the engine till the piston gets close to TDC then look carefully in the timing hole and see if yo can locate a TDC scribe line, once you find it take a drill with a 1/4 inch bit and put a small drilling mark on the flywheel at TDC, then put a dab of white paint on it. Once you have that if you have a advance light you can set that at the desired running timing and turn the distributor till the light flashes at the white mark nlock er down
The timing light I have is a simple cheap light I maybe have had for 30 years.