Case 300 Oil Filter Pipe.

I have a new discovery this morning. The pipe the goes up the center of the oil filter is missing. I have a piece of brake line that I could fit into the hole. I was wondering if this will work? If I remember right the original pipe's were closed on the tip and had a few holes on it's side. Would having a pipe with the tip open ensure the oil is directed through the filter?

The oil filter system is the by-pass (shunt) type, generally designed to bypass 10 - 15% of the oil pump capacity through the filter and back to the sump. The stem tube hole size and arrangement doesn?t seem to be critical. The filter media is apparently the restrictor to regulate the flow rate.

There are several different types of tubes. My 310 tube has a single hole at the top pic 1. My 311b has 3 holes (pic2 you can barely make out one of the side holes). Some holders have an orifice and others a bypass valve for plugged filter whatever that is worth on a bypass system is beyond me.

I have made a couple up using 1/4" refrigeration grade soft drawn tubing 3-3/34" long. Solder the top closed and smooth round to push easily through the filter media. Drilled holes similar to below. Sand down the bottom for interference fit in the holder and tap it in.

Here are the passage sizes from a new one bought from a Case dealer. I measured it for a post years ago.

1. Stem tube is 0.24" OD x 3-3/4"L above the press shoulder.

2. Three orifices (measured ? 0.002"): one @ vertical top of tube 0.081". 5/16" down from top of tube and 180? apart 2 @ 0.093".

The total area of the 3 holes exceeds the ID of the tube indicating they are used as directors and not as orifices or restrictors.

Joe

I made a mistake there. The tube 3-3/4" length is measured above the holder press shoulder so you need to make the replacement longer to include the depth of the socket in the holder. If I remember correctly the socket is about 1/2".

Joe

Don L has me make them out of brake line, one time we found one made out of wood, no holes. Dave

(quoted from post at 01:18:08 10/11/17) Don L has me make them out of brake line, one time we found one made out of wood, no holes. Dave

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Some of the major brand manufacturers used to put a pointed wood dowel in the new filter to keep the media separated in way of the stem tube. I've found a them in mounted filters, I guess people either don't know or forget to remove it before installing the filter.

Joe

my 611b has this in it:

It appears to be pinched in the middle, I'm guessing someone tried to get more oil pressure that way. Either it worked or wasn't necessary, it has about 15 psi.

I made one for my 300 out of a piece of copper tubing. I had one on the VAC to use as a pattern. It took a good bit of sanding to get the bottom of the tube to fit and had to crimp the top to get hole the right size.

I see you can't truly tell from the pic, it's not painted orange, it's raw copper.

The measurements you gave me will be a big help. I can turn the end of a brake line down with my instrument lathe, that is in my watchmakers shop. I'll leave the tip open for now. I doubt if the holes on the side of the pipes was much of an improvement for filtering the oil.

(quoted from post at 09:50:58 10/11/17)
The measurements you gave me will be a big help. I can turn the end of a brake line down with my instrument lathe, that is in my watchmakers shop. I'll leave the tip open for now. I doubt if the holes on the side of the pipes was much of an improvement for filtering the oil.

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I think that is the simplest choice. Tomorrow I'll pull the filter on the '56 310 that has the single hole on top, measure, and post back.

Joe

This is the oil filter base on my '56 310. It is original as built. Tube is 3-11/16", need to add base socket depth for total height for replacement, looks like about another 1/2". Tube dia measured with caliper 0.252", realistically 1/4". Single hole at the top of the tube measured go-nogo with numbered drill bits. Bit #53 (0.059") go sloppy, bit #54 (0.063")nogo but almost. As I stated before the cross-sectional area of the holes in some of these filter tubes exceed the ID of the tube indicating that they are not used as orifices or restrictor but to direct the oil to the top of the filter media with the media being the restriction.

I been using Napa filter 7011 ~$18 locally. Lately buying same filter Wix 57011 on Amazon ~$14.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSGV8U/ref oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie UTF8&psc 1

(quoted from post at 20:30:11 10/11/17) This is the oil filter base on my '56 310. It is original as built. Tube is 3-11/16", need to add base socket depth for total height for replacement, looks like about another 1/2". Tube dia measured with caliper 0.252", realistically 1/4". Single hole at the top of the tube measured go-nogo with numbered drill bits. Bit #53 (0.059") go sloppy, bit #54 (0.063")nogo but almost. As I stated before the cross-sectional area of the holes in some of these filter tubes exceed the ID of the tube indicating that they are not used as orifices or restrictor but to direct the oil to the top of the filter media with the media being the restriction.

I been using Napa filter 7011 ~$18 locally. Lately buying same filter Wix 57011 on Amazon ~$14.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSGV8U/ref oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie UTF8&psc 1

Click to expand...

I used your original measurements yesterday when I added the tube. I wonder how much of the crankcase oil gets filtered between oil changes?