611B Engine Knock.

L.Fure

Well-known Member
I looked a 611B that is for sale. Before we started the engine the owner told me about the engine knock. I wish he had mentioned that in the add. Anyway, here is the explanation he had. He said that there was a hole in the exhaust manifold at the number one cylinder that he welded shut. It was after that the knock showed up. At first he thought some slag ended up on the piston top. He checked it with a plumbers camera, and there was nothing there. So he concluded that some welding beads and slag got stuck under the exhaust valve causing it to not close all the way. The knocking is the huge tappet clearance when the valve doesn't close all the way. Does that sound feasible? The knock does sounds like it's right in that area. Should I buy it and figure on removing the head and replacing one valve and one valve seat?
 
(quoted from post at 02:43:00 09/28/17) Figure on one valve and seat and when that isn't it figure on overhauling the engine

I think I'll pass on this one. I'd hate to gamble on it for what is being asked for the tractor.
 
Good idea. If the valve isn't closing all the way the tractor will have a bad miss, at least at idle. How you'd get welding slag to go that far horizontally I don't know either. Knocks are notorious for being hard to locate by sound anyway, but this one sounds just like wool being pulled over your eyes. Unless it's cheap enough to be worth a motor job, you'll lose your shirt, and maybe some regions further south.
 
Excessive valve lash is a tapping, clatter type noise not a knock. Pull the spark plug wire while it is running, valve tappet noise is not going to change much, however, something like worn wrist pin bushing knock will change noticeably. In any event pulling the valve cover to compare valve lash on a couple of cylinders is a quick, simple check of the owner's claim.

Joe
 
(quoted from post at 12:22:30 09/29/17) The price would have to be very, very low for me to buy any tractor with a knock in the engine.....

That's why I passed this one up. If it was priced at around a thousand dollars I would take a chance on getting it fixed. But I didn't drive the tractor after I heard the knock, so I don't know how good the Case-O-Matic is on that tractor. The oil pressure on the torque converter looked okay, but the oil looked like regular hydraulic oil when I pulled the dipstick. Things could change if the correct oil was put in the torque tube. The owner is a retired John Deere worker and his shed is full of expensive John Deere tractors of different sizes, so I don't think he is very familiar with Case tractors.
 
have ran only hyd oil in all of my com's for the last 50 years with never a single issue, used to run TCH then switched to Hy-Tran about 30 years ago, far better oil than any ATF, my 600B had a knock in it it was a loose wrist pin, replaced the piston and never looked back, been 29 years now lol, you may have a lot more small tractors so they do not command the prices they do here a average 600B brings 2500 min here they still get 1000-1500 for a 8N Ford here, different areas
cnt
 
(quoted from post at 14:08:38 10/01/17) have ran only hyd oil in all of my com's for the last 50 years with never a single issue, used to run TCH then switched to Hy-Tran about 30 years ago, far better oil than any ATF, my 600B had a knock in it it was a loose wrist pin, replaced the piston and never looked back, been 29 years now lol, you may have a lot more small tractors so they do not command the prices they do here a average 600B brings 2500 min here they still get 1000-1500 for a 8N Ford here, different areas
cnt

I suppose the knock can be a bad wrist pin. The coming after welding on the exhaust manifold might just be a coincidence. I just don't feel like sticking my neck out for this one. Unless someone can come up with a good argument for buying the tractor. I'll post the Craigslist add here in case someone is interested.

https://dubuque.craigslist.org/grd/d/1956-case-611b-case-matic/6304496590.html
 

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