This my 1030 problem?

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Took the oil pump apart and found this. The relief valve had some gunk in it and is worn as you can see in the pic. The gears and housings look good. I have 2 pumps and both are the same. One had less gunk in the valve but otherwise both have the plunger worn the same. Could this be enough to cause the lack of oil issue? I found nothing else. All the passages are open. All the bearings were in correctly. Cam bearings are good and installed correct.
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Yeah, I've seen them much worse and still doing the job, but if they can't move in the bore it's all over. Was the gunk solidified? And what does the bore look like? A borescope designed for rifle bores should get you a good look at the cylinder walls. Cheaper ones (like mine) can't focus that close.
 
Jon: I'm not sure of the relief valve, but my memory got jogged. On the late blocks, CASE used an A34964 "Oil Gallery Plug" w/ a A27355 O Ring & A22593 Screw to hold it in. Check it out.
 
that would be with Front mounted oil pump you are talking about John ? ,the parts you are talking about was used there when not using Cam Driven oil pump.
 
This is an interesting thread. 25 years ago I rebuilt a 283 MM engine and when I started it up the oil pressure was normal for a few seconds and then went haywire. It would go from normal to zero and anywhere in between. I took the pressure relief plunger out and it was clean but it was shiney on one side. I ended up putting in a new one and the pressure stayed normal after that. Mind you I was still nervous for a couple years after that.
There are times I wish I could still do restoration work but I am past my 'sell before' date. lol
Here's hoping you can get that engine back together and it will be perfect.
 
I would look at main bearing housing bore sizes as well. Core shift can show up when you put bearings in during a rebuild. I like to line hone all of these old engines when doing a major overhaul. Just a thought.
 

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