New to me 210B

I just brought a second Case into my life last week. It is a 59 210B-L straight 4 speed with eagle hitch. It will go with the VAO I have now. Slowly getting the bugs out of it. The tach, the needle seems to have come off the armature. It works, but the needle stays pointing down as the armature move up without it. I plan on taking it apart to see what gives. Has any one seen that before? I corrected the polarity on the battery, polarized the generator and it charges now. I would really like to find an owners manual for it. I got the parts and repair one on order now.
It really is a cute little guy. I think they are pretty rare too I read. Is there special a designed seat cushion for these tractors? Any advertising brochures around for it?
Thanks
Neil

I have a 210B. I've never seen an owners manual before. This site sells a Parts Manual which is helpful. You might also look for an I&T Shop Service manual. It covers 200B through 600B tractors.

Don't attempt to repair the steering wheel. I did that on mine and the bakelite is cracking again. A replacement steering is available many places including ebay as well is the Case center which is missing.

Just after I posted this I see a couple of owners manuals now on Ebay. Not cheap though to Canada. I have the IT manual now and the parts one on order.
Thanks. You have a very nice specimen there too!

Neil, that looks to be in very good shape, except the front grilles look about like mine did (looks like my 611B takes the exact same grille). I took a piece of 1/8" flat stock, about 4" square, and a hammer and a stump. Just kept beating out the valleys, flipping it over and repeat, do it again until I was happy with them.

Mine, I have a problem with the starter. I had it rebuilt when I first got it and I think they screwed it up. I can never depend on it starting. It frequently won't turn the engine over fast enough to start. I need a replacement but it takes a rare one.

Sometimes a good cleaning up of the armature where the brushes contact it and undercutting the mica really helps as well as oiling it. Also if any connections are getting hot, you are loosing power.
Have a good evening. Good advice on the grille as they are so expensive.

I HAVE A 58 MODEL 200B. REMOVED STARTER AND HAD IT REBUILT BUT STILL CRANKED SLOW AND WOULD TURN ENGINE FOR A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. INSTALLED AN 8 VOLT BATTERY IN PLACE OF THE 6 VOLT AND IT CRANKS A LOT BETTER.

Not good to undercut mica on starter commutators. Starter brushes are usually copper impregnated carbon to conduct the high inrush current due to the standing start and immediate high torque. The copper abrades along with the carbon and can lodge in the undercut while the carbon powder blows off with centrifugal windage. Copper bits in the undercut between the copper commutator bars will short out the armature.

Best to turn the commutator on a lathe or if not too far gone clean it up with fine sandpaper (not emery paper) until you can't feel any mica "bumps".

Joe

My tractor has been converted to a 12v system and I'm using a 12v battery. Sometimes I wonder if I've just burnt up the starter.

It's not a problem with connections. I've cleaned or replaced everything including the solenoid. It doesn't even help to jump it off another vehicle. Usually in the morning when the tractor hasn't been used the tractor will start fine. After it's been run and up to running temperature is when it won't start.

I have done that since high school. It is often recommended in Auto Mech books I have seen over the years. I use a hack saw blade cut off. You can see many references to it with a google search. A lathe with a mica undercutting attachment is the right way too do it. I have found the other works fine to over the last 40 years or so, My opinion anyway.

(quoted from post at 04:21:58 09/11/17) It's not a problem with connections. I've cleaned or replaced everything including the solenoid. It doesn't even help to jump it off another vehicle. Usually in the morning when the tractor hasn't been used the tractor will start fine. After it's been run and up to running temperature is when it won't start.

Click to expand...

Too much ignition timing advance?

My Ford pickup would start fine cold, but not turn engine over fast enough to start warm. Turned out to be the ground connection between the starter and bell-housing. Check the starter draw, and if that is OK, and timing is OK it is a connection somewhere. I have pitched all the 6 volt batteries on the place and converted to 12 volt years ago. Saved my sanity.

Did the 200B not have hydraulics outlets?

Just so you know, your tractor has been molested at some point in the past.
You definitely have a four speed tractor as there is no range lever for high/low or a shuttle, but your decal says it's a dual-range meaning it should be an 8 speed. I'm guessing it was repainted years ago as the dash should be the same color as the hood instead of F.Red. The decals are not only the wrong ones but they are in the wrong places. For example, the safety decal on the dash I believe goes on your missing pto shield. You should be able to order the build card from Case for your serial number to find out exactly how it was built from the factory as far as options and tire sizes and where it was shipped to. Sometimes a tractor gets burned up or a tree falls on it and it gets different tin from a salvage yard donor but I'm guessing yours just got repainted and the wrong decals put on. Nice little tractors.

As far as manuals, they are on eBay all the time or you can get them from the guys who sell manuals at tractor shows. Advertising literature specific to the ag 200B was not produced to my knowledge but you will find a page devoted to it in certain full-line catalogs of the day, or individual spec sheets from a dealers binder or many of the construction brochures of the era also devoted a page in their full-line catalogs. Not a lot of difference between the ag and construction 200B back in those days. In fact, many 200s with solid axles like yours will have a shuttle and no hydraulics because they were bred to handle a Case factory heavy duty loader which had its own hydraulic system with a big pump mounted in front of the tractor. They also made forklifts out of them set up the same way as well.

remotes, EH, pto, three trans choices all were a option as was powersteering later on
cnt

Just a few comments on the comments. It is a straight 4 speed as noted in my original post. The "molestations" I think are limited to the wrong decals used after a paint job. The only thing I would call a real molestation is the door cut in the hood to access the battery without taking the hood off. I did get an owners manual downloaded from Jensales for $26.00 so that hurdle is over. The L part of the model number as in 210B-L, I am told that stands for low gearing? I only see one speed chart in the book for the 4 speed. They do talk about an optional high gear in one place I see. The colour of the dash, when I look online, I see them both ways, the body colour and the hood colour. I wonder how it started out from new. And the tach, I wonder how that needle is attached to the armature.
It starts on 6 volt as designed. I have 6 other tractors and cars on 6 volt and all start just fine. If something is hard to start hot, check that the timing may be too far advanced in my experience.
Thanks for the help.

When I got my tractor the dash was painted flambeau red but someone had done it. They didn't mask off the steering wheel and got the paint all over it. What period pictures I could find were black and white but the color matched the hood so when I painted mine I painted it desert sunset. I think it looks better matching the hood.

I think they had a standard set of gears for most models including your 210B. If it was ordered with a special low gear like yours then it got the 210B-L stamped on the sn. plate. A 210B-H would have the optional high gear.

I had a chance to purchase a rowcrop diesel 631-C-H once but missed out. Often wondered with those tall tires, triple range, COM and the high gear set, just how fast it would go down the road?

Thanks. I wonder what the speeds would be? Would all gears be like the triple range on the low side I wonder?

My 611B is an H model. It has a low and high range, though, and for my taste "low" isn't low enough, the tractor will still do 3-4mph in low-low. IIRC the manual claims a top speed of 24mph but I've no interest in confirming that, 12 or so is as fast as I want to go even if I'm headed for the neighbor's place.

I haven?t done any 200B gauges and don?t remember how they were made. I can?t see your tach, may not be positive if I could but if it is typical of gauges in this era it should be built so it can be disassembled. It is usually a matter of removing the glass, positioning and pressing the pointer back on the shaft.

If the bezel is crimped on you may really mess it up. In that case you might want to take it to an instrument shop or try to find a replacement. I have cut crimped bezels in one place and worked it off, refitted with the cut on the bottom. In any event it isn?t doing you any good the way it is. Look it over, if the shaft is broken or the pointer doesn?t appear to be the pressed type this won?t do you any good.

The glass will probably be stuck hard to the seal after all these years. Place a suction cup in the center of the glass and gently pry up carefully around the periphery of the glass and lift it off. Putting a little honey or cleanable glue on the suction cup helps increase the grip.

The pointer shaft and the pointer bore should be tapered, mating like a Jacobs fit. Position the pointer and press it lightly on the shaft. Start the engine, check the pointer responds to the point it should be with the engine idling, play with it a bit until your satisfied it is accurate, shutdown and tap the pointer tight on the shaft. If the shaft goes all the way through the pointer bore you will need to make up a driver to tap it on gently.

The pic is a pointer jack and pointer driver used in instrumentation repair. A small wooden dowel with hole makes a good driver. If you need to pop the pointer back off usually it can be pried off with 2 flat blade screwdrivers or better yet 2 small thin wedges with slots. Obviously you have to use a light hand and be patient. Very careful not to bend the shaft.

Joe

I haven’t done any 200B gauges and don‘t remember how they were made. I can’t see your tach, may not be positive if I could but if it is typical of gauges in this era it should be built so it can be disassembled. It is usually a matter of removing the glass, positioning and pressing the pointer back on the shaft.

If the bezel is crimped on you may really mess it up. In that case you might want to take it to an instrument shop or try to find a replacement. I have cut crimped bezels in one place and worked it off, refitted with the cut on the bottom. In any event it isn’t doing you any good the way it is. Look it over, if the shaft is broken or the pointer doesn’t appear to be the pressed type this won’t do you any good.

The glass will probably be stuck hard to the seal after all these years. Place a suction cup in the center of the glass and gently pry up carefully around the periphery of the glass and lift it off. Putting a little honey or cleanable glue on the suction cup helps increase the grip.

The pointer shaft and the pointer bore should be tapered, mating like a Jacobs fit. Position the pointer and press it lightly on the shaft. Start the engine, check the pointer responds to the point it should be with the engine idling, play with it a bit until your satisfied it is accurate, shutdown and tap the pointer tight on the shaft. If the shaft goes all the way through the pointer bore you will need to make up a driver to tap it on gently.

The pic is a pointer jack and pointer driver used in instrumentation repair. A small wooden dowel with hole makes a good driver. If you need to pop the pointer back off usually it can be pried off with 2 flat blade screwdrivers or better yet 2 small thin wedges with slots. Obviously you have to use a light hand and be patient. Very careful not to bend the shaft.

Joe

I really don't know but I would guess more like the mid range.
On my triple range tractors, I never use the low set of gears as they're too slow for the messing around I do.
I wonder if your Ops Manual would show the gear speeds for each transmission option?

You have a nice little jewel there, should make a good team member. Thanks for showing us

Thanks very much for all the good feedback. I am going to tackle the tach next once I get a few other projects moved along a bit.