Generator to Alternator - Case 530

1960-61 Case 530: Gas, 12v, positive ground

Hello, I have some more questions regarding alternator conversions. I was reading through past posts and got some good info. With some help I determined that my generator is bad. When grounding the field and checking the arm. at high RPMs, the generator was turning and putting out .5v or something similar. Surprisingly, I cannot find any gen/alt repair shops around. Considering the price, an alternator seems like a good solution.

I will probably use the Delco 10si (one wire) as that seems pretty common, cheap, and sold locally at NAPA. I will lose the tach, but my tach was already not working (haven't taken the time to troubleshoot that yet anyhow). I have read that there were some different alternators that had a tach drive that would work.

When I install an alternator, I will need to switch to negative ground. Is there anything on the tractor that is polarity sensitive? Since I will lose the VR and generator, do I just install the alternator and swap battery cables?

Are there any new alternators with tach support commercially available? (for under $100)

If I install a Delco 10si (internally regulated), do I just take out the current voltage regulator and run the alternators single wire to the ammeter?

Any advice or recommendations on mounting the alternator? Is it pretty straightforward with a universal bracket?



Thank you for the help. I am still in the learning and trial/error phase.

I don't like the one wire on an older tractor, because you've got to see 1500 rpm or so to energize the field to get it working. The 3 wire is simple, a diode kit to keep the bat from discharging is simple and readily available. I had 2 one wires and swapped them to others. I don't like revving cold engines, and my SC had to run wide open for a bit for it to kick in........ My experience

That makes sense, I am not partial to a single wire; it just seemed easier.

How do I wire a 3 wire then?

Like I said, still learning. How does the diode keep the bat from discharging?

(quoted from post at 13:58:48 08/21/17) That makes sense, I am not partial to a single wire; it just seemed easier.

How do I wire a 3 wire then?

Like I said, still learning. How does the diode keep the bat from discharging?

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In this case, the diode in the "excite" circuit has NOTHING to do with the battery discharging after shutdown.

It's purpose is to prevent a backfeeding of current, at shutdown, when the ignition is switched to "off" that can prevent a spark-ignition tractor or diesel with a fuel cutoff solenoid from shutting of, and also to prevent alternator damage under certain conditions.

Thanks Bob, that makes sense.

That diode (or marker light) will also tell me if the alt is charging, correct? It will be illuminated at first until RPM up to speed and charging.

If your ammeter works presently you will have to reverse all the leads on the back or it will show a discharge instead of a charge when running.

(quoted from post at 23:08:18 08/21/17) If your ammeter works presently you will have to reverse all the leads on the back or it will show a discharge instead of a charge when running.

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Reverse leads on your ignition coil also, neg terminal to distributer.

If your ignition switch has been changed out to a switch with an accessory terminal connect sensor wire there, no diode or resistor required. No feedback when switch is off.

Joe

I am not home at the moment, but it has the original Case key ignition... so I imagine it doesn't have that?

My .02 cents worth, Study Bob's diagram above, or study others in the archives. I suggest running all new wires for your new charging system. Old wires multiple splices will give you headaches eventually. One other that you have probably already looked at is, the size of the alternator. Will it fit in the old generator position and clear all tin work etc. This site sells a much smaller alternator(Mitsubishi, I think) that gives you a little more room. It is a three wire so Bob's diagram would be the one to use. Happy wireing gobble

I was thinking the Gleaner L2 combines had a tach drive on the alternator. I use the original 2 wire regulators on the conversions I do.

We keep an alternator w/ the tach drive in stock.

I appreciate that John, it's just a little more than I'm willing to spend.

Don't know if your tractor has an A or B wound field. You may want to put the field to power instead of ground and check output. I know they had them on 430's had a he77 of a time getting one of them to charge once.

#2 pin on Delco 3 wire edge connector is the voltage sensor, it goes to hot battery source, often just looped down to the output stud.

#1 pin is to excite the alternator to charge when engine is started. This is the connection with the diode, lamp, or resistor and could go to accessory as described