1970 CK 580 clutch issue

Scott321

Member
I'm having some trouble with the clutch on my CK. When I try to start it, I hear a clashing noise the first few times. Then it starts. However, when I try to put it in gear, with the clutch pedal pushed down, I get more gear clashing, then it drops into place. Pressure won't stay in the green zone on the gauge. When I use the shuttle and swing from Forward to Reverse, the pressure drops.

Although the dipstick said the torque converter had enough fluid, I dumped in some more, the tractor started without clashing, but only twice. I also replaced the filter in front of the radiator.

Someone suggested I check the torque converter fluid to see if it had water in it. To do that, they said to drain off a little fluid and see how it looked.

The owner's manual shows three different drain points -
[list:4b069ce9a8]torque tube drain
torque converter housing drain
torque converter drain[/list:u:4b069ce9a8]

Which one is correct?
If I drain from one or all of them, do I use the torque tube dipstick to refill them all? (nothing else mentioned in the diagram)

What's a good source for service manuals?

Thank you in advance,

Scott

P.S. I had posted this in the general tractor discussion, olgentdc suggested this would be a better place to ask Case specific questions.
 
First off, sounds like you need to do a starter rebuild, you do not push the clutch in on a power shuttle to change gears just make sure you are at a idle and have the FWD/REV shuttle lever in "N", as for losing psi when you step on the clutch pedal that is Normal and Correct, the shuttle fluid is checked with engine running shuttle lever in "N" and the 4 speed in a gear (I like to recommend 4th), checking it with the engine off will not give you the correct level reading,, if it has water in it the oil will be milky, a service manual can still be bought from any Case Construction dealer but you may have to by a 580B one as the last I knew the 580CK one was not available but No worries the power train on the tractor and loader are the same on a "B" as the plain 580CK, they changed tin work and few things but the big change was the over center backhoe the "B" carries, you also do not use the clutch when changing directions, just idle down apply the brakes and stop movement then shift the shuttle to the desired direct, then throttle up, the clutch pedal is only used for getting full RPMS when using the loader when say loading a truck and you need full hyd flow, it is not to be used at every shift or direction change
cnt
 

Hello Case Nutty, thanks for the quick reply! Just so I understand, when I start it, I just need to put the shuttle in Neutral? And keep my foot off the clutch?

Thank you,

Scott
 
Yes, and let it run a few to get oil tot he shuttle clutches fully, in cold temps you need to let it run 5-15 min before using to avoid unnecessary wear on the drive system,,
cnt
 
2022.jpg


Here's a picture of the underside of the tractor, I added arrows pointing to the drains. The one to the front (upper right side in the photo) is called the torque [u:81be1f47da]converter [/u:81be1f47da]housing drain.

The rear one, in the lower center, somewhere, is the torque [u:81be1f47da]tube [/u:81be1f47da]drain.

Should I drain them both, and replace the fluid using the torque tube dipstick opening?

If so, why two drains? Or am I missing a filler?

I drained the fluid from the front (torque converter housing drain). I only got about two quarts, milky. When I checked the torque tube dipstick, it was dripping oil. This makes me think the two sections aren't connected. Or am I wrong?

Thank you,

Scott
 
there is two "Galleys" that hold oil but the two are connected when the system is running and transferring oil, by all means if you see milky fluid it needs changed, there is a convertor drain plug as well in most of them, it is fun to find as you have to access it through the upper drain hole, also you need to correct where you are getting water entry, it can be the 4-speed shifter boot, or either and or both of the cover gaskets
cnt
 

Thank you!

I 'borrowed' a flat plastic seed tray (it holds a couple gallons) from my wife, it will slide under the drain plug just fine. I don't think she will want it back.

The rubber boot on the gear shift is old and hardened, I haven't checked the transmission fluid yet. Don't know where else to check.

Regarding the third drainhole, the owner's manual shows the torque converter drain, and the picture shows dotted lines. Usually, that means something inside something else. This must be the one you were talking about. Maybe I can reach up through the

Scott
 

Thanks! I'll check that tonight. I got drove in yesterday evening, a thunderstorm blew in, I don't like being in a field next to a metal object! Today should be good, I'll pick up some SAE-90 for the transmission and differential case.

Scott
 

Success! I drained the torque converter fluid and replaced it. The tractor has more power now, and moves right along! (This brings up the next issue, I'm posting another question, this time about brakes.)

Thanks again, Case Nutty!
 

Also, I'm trying to find a source for the gaskets to the plates on top of the torque tube and transmission, and the rubber boot for the shifter.
 

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