1964 Case 430 Questions

My stepdad believes he has a 1964 Case 430 diesel tractor with a front end loader attachment. The serial number is: 8239246. I believe that puts it in the model year 1964, but I could be wrong.

I feel like a moron because I cannot figure out where to add hydraulic fluid to the hydraulics system. It appears there's a pump underneath the fuel tank area which is hard piped to a main hydraulics manifold. There doesn't seem to be a reservoir anywhere, unless it's somehow tied into the gear oil system under the pump.

The transfer case and transmission areas seem to be filled with gear oil, judging by the smell. It appears that the aforementioned hydraulic pump is actually sitting directly above where you'd fill the transfer case. So is that pump integrated with the gear oil?

Does the steering system take ATF? It has been malfunctioning.

There's a vent tube exiting the rear axle/pto setup just underneath the driver's seat. It appears that it's broken and has been puking out fluid. Is that supposed to be a breather setup for the axle/pto?

The brakes are in bad shape. The local Case shop quoted: 35 man hours @ $85/hr. and $1500 in parts. That's over $4k just for the brakes. I spoke with a farmer right down the road and he said they're raping us and that it's a 7hr job.

Other than that, the thing just needs some touch up paint and it's ready for work.

Basically we're up a creek and we need literature pretty badly for this tractor. Service manual, parts manual, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason
 
is it a case-o-matic? the breather should not puke oil. on my 611 the oil level for the rear end is well below the breather tube, more like axel height. you might have leakage from the hyd. sys. to the rear end,maybe the eagle hitch,or one of the shaft seals from the trans. hope that helps .
 
I don"t believe it"s a Case-o-matic, it is a standard transmission. There are two fill plugs on the tractor - one is near the transmission and one is near the transfer case. Both smell like gear oil. Are one of these supposed to be the hydraulic oil reservoir? If so, which one?

Are there manuals for the Case 430 tractor?
 
Its in really bad shape, but I would take it off your hands for about $750. (<:

Your friend is right they are trying to rape you. I have a 630. My guess if the hydraulics are low and the differential case is puking oil is the rock shaft piston seals need replacing and on yours I believe these may be just common o-rings, not real sure but my 630 uses o-rings your 1964 model may use the improved seals. The brakes are a fairly easy fix. My guess is the axle seals are dried out and leaking causin oily brakes and little braking. NAPA can sell you the seals. I thought they were kind of expensive but not according to your Case dealer. I paid about $13 each for them. You have to drain the differential housing below bearing housing bore, if the thing is full that may be 5-6 gallons, but if its mixed with Hydraulic oil its got to be drained anyway. My guess is about 10-15 gallons maybe more total. The 630 holds 41 qts of gear oil.

To replace the piston seals the 3 pt lift arms must come off the rock shaft. Slide the rock shaft off (to reduce weight) take the seat and seat suspension off then remove the differentail cover. Sounds major but its only about a 30 minute job. The cover is quite heavy so unless you are a gorrila have two people. I did mine but won't again by myself. With the cover off the tractor hook your air hose to the hydraulic line input and blow the rock shaft piston out. Replace the seals. 630crazy says the improved seals take 4-5 hands to get on the piston so make sure you have a helper.

THe brakes are not hard just taking a bunch of stuff to take loose and off like floor boards and brake assemblies. Replace your brake bands or get them relined as they are probably oil soaked. Pull the side gear housing out (hardest part if they have been there a while). Replace the ID shaft seals and big o-rings around the housing OD. Wrap enough duck (duct)tape around the splined shaft to protect the shaft seal and build up to the shaft OD. Carefully slide them on and reassemble.

If you are pretty mechanically minded, handy, and have the time its not hard and will probably cost you around $100- $150 inclusive of oil. If its the seals in between the cases all bets are off and the tractor will need to be split to do this I think.

Mel, any ideas from your end??

Jim Garner
 
yes there are manuals transmission case calls sae90multi pupose gear lubricant 32-80 degrees sae80 below 32 degrees torqe tube case tch shows I use tch from tsc same for power steering I use atf tranny fluid in mine but I could be doing wrong.If You are in my area you are welcome to take a look at mine
 
I believe that owner's manuals are still available from Case(likely a reprint of the original). Also available from time to time on E-bay and other sites. I&T shop manual is available, which will give you basic step by step on repairing brakes, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 12:31:34 07/31/09) Its in really bad shape, but I would take it off your hands for about $750. (&lt;:

Your friend is right they are trying to rape you. I have a 630. My guess if the hydraulics are low and the differential case is puking oil is the rock shaft piston seals need replacing and on yours I believe these may be just common o-rings, not real sure but my 630 uses o-rings your 1964 model may use the improved seals. The brakes are a fairly easy fix. My guess is the axle seals are dried out and leaking causin oily brakes and little braking. NAPA can sell you the seals. I thought they were kind of expensive but not according to your Case dealer. I paid about $13 each for them. You have to drain the differential housing below bearing housing bore, if the thing is full that may be 5-6 gallons, but if its mixed with Hydraulic oil its got to be drained anyway. My guess is about 10-15 gallons maybe more total. The 630 holds 41 qts of gear oil.

To replace the piston seals the 3 pt lift arms must come off the rock shaft. Slide the rock shaft off (to reduce weight) take the seat and seat suspension off then remove the differentail cover. Sounds major but its only about a 30 minute job. The cover is quite heavy so unless you are a gorrila have two people. I did mine but won't again by myself. With the cover off the tractor hook your air hose to the hydraulic line input and blow the rock shaft piston out. Replace the seals. 630crazy says the improved seals take 4-5 hands to get on the piston so make sure you have a helper.

THe brakes are not hard just taking a bunch of stuff to take loose and off like floor boards and brake assemblies. Replace your brake bands or get them relined as they are probably oil soaked. Pull the side gear housing out (hardest part if they have been there a while). Replace the ID shaft seals and big o-rings around the housing OD. Wrap enough duck (duct)tape around the splined shaft to protect the shaft seal and build up to the shaft OD. Carefully slide them on and reassemble.

If you are pretty mechanically minded, handy, and have the time its not hard and will probably cost you around $100- $150 inclusive of oil. If its the seals in between the cases all bets are off and the tractor will need to be split to do this I think.

Mel, any ideas from your end??

Jim Garner

Thanks for all the great info Jim. I knew they were trying to take him to the bank.

This is a picture of the Case:
Tractor0001.jpg


You can see how wet it is under the seat, behind the banjo fitting and in front of the breather tube. I'm not sure if there's supposed to be a proper breather vent on there or not. It looks like the tubing is broken.

I assume this is the transmission fill plug:
Tractor0002.jpg


I assume this is the transfer case fill plug:
Tractor0003.jpg


Both areas appear to be filled with gear oil, judging by the smell.

There is a hard piped hydraulic line running from what appears to be a pump in front of the transfer case area to a manifold/valve system. From that same manifold/valve system, there's another hard piped hydraulic line which runs to that banjo fitting. Where do I add hydraulic fluid to the system?

I used the tractor yesterday to scrape a bunch of old cow flops from underneath the loafing shed and fluid, which smells like gear oil, was puking out the vent tube. I gave the a really good look over. Pretty much all joints, bushings, bearings and seals need to be replaced. I noticed I cannot max out the lift of the bucket system on the front of the tractor and the lift of the scraper in the rear. It's struggling pretty bad.

The brakes seem completely shot. There is no feel to the pedal whatsoever. Stepping on the brake does nothing. The only thing functioning in the brake system is the return spring on the pedal.

The motor was puking oil out of the dipstick. The radiator was puking fluid out near the cap.

I am mechanically inclined, but I have never worked on a tractor before.

Jason
 
You"ve got yourself a triplerange I can tell by the L-H-D shift pattern on the cover. Front is the hydraulic reservoir I believe. My old man has a triplrange 300 with trans. seal leak. Ran if for many years with hydraulic oil in both the trans and the hydraulic reservoir.
 
Case will have most all the seals you need.
My 311b has been thru at least 2 trans to triple range seals in 49 years. That's just not acceptable!LOL.
 
You are correct on the differentail/transmission fill point and hydraulic fill point. If you take these out both have a dipstick under them. Most of the time when the differentail is blowing out oil its the 3 pt piston seals, especially if you are constantly loosing hydrauli fluid.

The hydraulics originally used TCH (Case brand) when I was a kid we used ATF transmission fluid in the hydraulics in our 830 Case. If you do a search on this forum there will be the fluid type recommendations for the hydraulic fluid, I used standard hydraulic oil to top off my 630 but I think I read on here someplace that is not reccomended. The differential/transmission is 80/90wt gear lube. NAPA's brand lube is pretty inexpensive and it is rebranded Valvoline lube. The Valvoline brand there is nearly twice the price. Walmart also carries this gear lube and its a little over $8 here in Houston but only available in 1 gallon jugs. NAPA has it in 5 gallon buckets. If you buy the 5 gallon ons get a BIG funnel and have a strong back you have to get in a pretty odd angle to pour it in while standing on the tractor floor boards. Gallon jugs much easier on the back but a little more expensive that way.

I am attaching parts lists for the brake assemblies and rock shaft assemblies, hope these help.

Radiator sounds like it may have been overfilled. Do not fill completely full, should be an inch or so below the tank top to allow for expansion.

My email is open. This could get long and cumbersome for this forum so feel free to mail me if you want and I will try to help if this gets long. Also for parts if your local Case IH dealer is no help try John Saeli or Don Livingston on this forum.

Jim
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a3667.jpg
 

Good deal. We filled up that reservoir with hydraulic oil and everything worked well w/o any straining.

The radiator was filled to the top, so that's why it puked.

It sounds like we're going to give it a shot to repair this tractor. Thanks for the parts diagrams. I suppose I'll take this to email for any other help in regard to this topic.
 
To get a full page view of these diagrams and parts lists go to:
http://www.caseih.com/index.aspx
Choose United States under "Select your country"
On the menu at the top of the screen drag the cursor over "parts & service" and click on "search for parts" from the drop down.
On the left side of mid page you will see a line that says "Begin your search for the parts you need right here". Right here is in red and underlined, click on it.

In the "Model" box type in 430 and click search.
Click on the first 430 listing, "430 AG and utility (prio..." then scroll down to line 210 or 212 for brakes, 1964 model should have the band type brakes which is line 212, line 210 is for the disk type brakes like my 1960 630.
Click on line 276 or 278 for the rockshaft pistons. Line 276 is for the general purpose tractor, 278 is for the utility tractor. The utility has 24" rims, the general purpose has 28" rims.

What I do to get a print of the list and diagram is click on the printer icon above the parts diagram, then "print both". Then under printers I select Adobe PDF. This will give you a PDF file you can save to your desk top or a reference folder to print later and again if it gets soiled or torn. A print on the diagram page and the parts list also will help your Case dealer or NAPA match up things. For the rear axel seals, which I am almost sure you will need, NAPA will be far cheaper. Brake parts and the big o-ring have to come from CaseIH or a Case construction equipmet dealer. Pay attention to the way the seal comes out or take a digital photo of it in place before you knock it out to make sure you get it in correctly when you go back together. The seal will have a stamped or etched number on the metal flange to allow NAPA to cross reference to a Timken or National brand seal.

Good luck and hope this helps speed your parts search.

Jim Garner
 
Hey where do you add engine oil at on this tractor, i have looked but cant find anwhere to add the oil except for the dipstick tube. thanks and God Bless
 
if anyone has the case ih manuals for g430 this tractor i will pay for a copy of them please 1964 g430 /8199450/ g45056 i need the front end loader manual an tractor parts manual with out hem i can not get the right parts
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if anyone has the case ih manuals for g430 this tractor i will pay for a copy of them please 1964 g430 /8199450/ g45056 i need the front end loader manual an tractor parts manual with out hem i can not get the right parts
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my case ih is not a 1964 it is a 1962 do anyone know what part manual an loader manual modal i need for this tractor1962 g 430 tractor help
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sorry it is a 1962 case 430g dos anyone know were i can get thee right part manual for my front loader an were i can get the seal kits for my cylenders
 
Well, uh, did you try Yesterday's Tractors? If they can't help you here then maybe Saeli or Steiner. I have manuals for my '59 611B but it's just different enough it won't help you. Certainly my loader won't match.
 
On needing 4 to 5 hands, you don't i recently did one on my case 440 with improved gasket.
I heated seal in a small bowl with vegetable oil then found one of my yeti cups that was slightly bigger and worked it down over and on to piston worked grear. Still having trouble getting it to bleed out though. Any advise?
(quoted from post at 12:31:34 07/31/09) Its in really bad shape, but I would take it off your hands for about $750. (&lt;:

Your friend is right they are trying to rape you. I have a 630. My guess if the hydraulics are low and the differential case is puking oil is the rock shaft piston seals need replacing and on yours I believe these may be just common o-rings, not real sure but my 630 uses o-rings your 1964 model may use the improved seals. The brakes are a fairly easy fix. My guess is the axle seals are dried out and leaking causin oily brakes and little braking. NAPA can sell you the seals. I thought they were kind of expensive but not according to your Case dealer. I paid about $13 each for them. You have to drain the differential housing below bearing housing bore, if the thing is full that may be 5-6 gallons, but if its mixed with Hydraulic oil its got to be drained anyway. My guess is about 10-15 gallons maybe more total. The 630 holds 41 qts of gear oil.

To replace the piston seals the 3 pt lift arms must come off the rock shaft. Slide the rock shaft off (to reduce weight) take the seat and seat suspension off then remove the differentail cover. Sounds major but its only about a 30 minute job. The cover is quite heavy so unless you are a gorrila have two people. I did mine but won't again by myself. With the cover off the tractor hook your air hose to the hydraulic line input and blow the rock shaft piston out. Replace the seals. 630crazy says the improved seals take 4-5 hands to get on the piston so make sure you have a helper.

THe brakes are not hard just taking a bunch of stuff to take loose and off like floor boards and brake assemblies. Replace your brake bands or get them relined as they are probably oil soaked. Pull the side gear housing out (hardest part if they have been there a while). Replace the ID shaft seals and big o-rings around the housing OD. Wrap enough duck (duct)tape around the splined shaft to protect the shaft seal and build up to the shaft OD. Carefully slide them on and reassemble.

If you are pretty mechanically minded, handy, and have the time its not hard and will probably cost you around $100- $150 inclusive of oil. If its the seals in between the cases all bets are off and the tractor will need to be split to do this I think.

Mel, any ideas from your end??

Jim Garner
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:56 07/02/18) On needing 4 to 5 hands, you don't i recently did one on my case 440 with improved gasket.
I heated seal in a small bowl with vegetable oil then found one of my yeti cups that was slightly bigger and worked it down over and on to piston worked grear. Still having trouble getting it to bleed out though. Any advise?
You are having problems bleeding your Eagle piston/cyl? Should be ready to rock after one up/down cycle, maybe two. I recently did my 611B, I only have a very light grader blade on it and it still bled out in one shot. Sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir? There's no need for a bleeder zerk since the fluid is pumped in from the top of the cylinder, so when the piston comes back the air is sent back to the reservoir.
 
(quoted from post at 13:21:32 07/03/18)
(quoted from post at 19:55:56 07/02/18) On needing 4 to 5 hands, you don't i recently did one on my case 440 with improved gasket.
I heated seal in a small bowl with vegetable oil then found one of my yeti cups that was slightly bigger and worked it down over and on to piston worked grear. Still having trouble getting it to bleed out though. Any advise?
You are having problems bleeding your Eagle piston/cyl? Should be ready to rock after one up/down cycle, maybe two. I recently did my 611B, I only have a very light grader blade on it and it still bled out in one shot. Sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir? There's no need for a bleeder zerk since the fluid is pumped in from the top of the cylinder, so when the piston comes back the air is sent back to the reservoir.
I keep having to add more to it to keep it filled up, and when I look in reservoir it is really foamy, bleeding it seemed like the only logical explanation, it will lift brush hog up all the way eventually but not on com and, should I just let it go up and stay up for a minute
 
Well... Now it will not do anything.
I replaced the gasket on the hydraulic piston under the seat of that's the eagle piston i don't really know any advice would be appreciated. It's a case 440 built between 65 and 69 4 cylinder gas. Thanks

(quoted from post at 13:49:41 07/03/18)
(quoted from post at 13:21:32 07/03/18)
(quoted from post at 19:55:56 07/02/18) On needing 4 to 5 hands, you don't i recently did one on my case 440 with improved gasket.
I heated seal in a small bowl with vegetable oil then found one of my yeti cups that was slightly bigger and worked it down over and on to piston worked grear. Still having trouble getting it to bleed out though. Any advise?
You are having problems bleeding your Eagle piston/cyl? Should be ready to rock after one up/down cycle, maybe two. I recently did my 611B, I only have a very light grader blade on it and it still bled out in one shot. Sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir? There's no need for a bleeder zerk since the fluid is pumped in from the top of the cylinder, so when the piston comes back the air is sent back to the reservoir.
I keep having to add more to it to keep it filled up, and when I look in reservoir it is really foamy, bleeding it seemed like the only logical explanation, it will lift brush hog up all the way eventually but not on com and, should I just let it go up and stay up for a minute
 
That fluid doesn't evaporate. It's probably foamy because it was low and the pump was getting air as well as oil. Speaking of which, what are you using for oil? Should be Hy-Tran or equivalent if it's a COM. But you need to find out where it went. My guess is you'll find your differential overfilled, which of course means you need to change that too, after you fix the seal in your Eagle hitch piston/cylinder. Yup, again. Take a good look at the cylinder while you have it apart; if it's scored, you need to fix it one way or another or you'll just be doing it over yet again. If you have other leaks you'd better fix them too; a COM tractor is just scrap without hydraulic fluid, it needs that torque converter to even move. I had three major leaks in mine, Eagle hitch piston, COM control valve, and a bucket tilt hose. I'll be doing the tilt cylinder next fall, it leaks down a bit but the fluid stays in the hydraulic system.
 
I don't think it is leaking again, when it was leaking before it was coming out where I could see it out of the tractor. I'm not sure on the fluid it's what the old man i bought my farm from left with the tractor because he said it leaked a little.it has an overflow type tube but I don't know where it went.
(quoted from post at 18:59:36 07/03/18) That fluid doesn't evaporate. It's probably foamy because it was low and the pump was getting air as well as oil. Speaking of which, what are you using for oil? Should be Hy-Tran or equivalent if it's a COM. But you need to find out where it went. My guess is you'll find your differential overfilled, which of course means you need to change that too, after you fix the seal in your Eagle hitch piston/cylinder. Yup, again. Take a good look at the cylinder while you have it apart; if it's scored, you need to fix it one way or another or you'll just be doing it over yet again. If you have other leaks you'd better fix them too; a COM tractor is just scrap without hydraulic fluid, it needs that torque converter to even move. I had three major leaks in mine, Eagle hitch piston, COM control valve, and a bucket tilt hose. I'll be doing the tilt cylinder next fall, it leaks down a bit but the fluid stays in the hydraulic system.
 
. It is 303 super tra c hydraulic fluid, I don't know how to check the diff level. I am pretty mechanical and have worked on cars and motorcycle for years but this is a first for tractors.
 
Not sure on your 430, my 611B has a large plug underneath the seat (IIRC it takes a 1 1/2" socket) with a dipstick attached.
19241.jpg

That's it between the two covers.
 
(quoted from post at 09:10:51 07/04/18) Not sure on your 430, my 611B has a large plug underneath the seat (IIRC it takes a 1 1/2" socket) with a dipstick attached.
19241.jpg

That's it between the two covers.
Yes it was way overkill drained it out but now I have no spark. The engine will turn over but nothing at the plugs. Any advice?
 
I doubt draining/filling the diff killed the spark. Look in the distributor, make sure the points are opening/closing. See if you have spark coming out of the coil, you may be losing it in the distributor cap/rotor/coil wire whatever. Just don't do like one co-worker did, replace all the parts in his distributor only to find out his old Chevy threw a timing chain and the distributor didn't turn!
 
(quoted from post at 06:09:31 07/20/18) I doubt draining/filling the diff killed the spark. Look in the distributor, make sure the points are opening/closing. See if you have spark coming out of the coil, you may be losing it in the distributor cap/rotor/coil wire whatever. Just don't do like one co-worker did, replace all the parts in his distributor only to find out his old Chevy threw a timing chain and the distributor didn't turn!
Ok thanks i have the distributer cap wires and point along with the ignition coil on order. It does spin so I'm just going to replace it all.
 
My point was: don't do that! Diagnose the problem then fix it. If it just needs a tune-up, fine, that means you waited WAY too long to do that. But simply throwing parts at a machine and hoping that fixes it can get real expensive real fast.
 
(quoted from post at 18:57:36 07/20/18) My point was: don't do that! Diagnose the problem then fix it. If it just needs a tune-up, fine, that means you waited WAY too long to do that. But simply throwing parts at a machine and hoping that fixes it can get real expensive real fast.
es I tested it with test light. I know it's overdue it came with the farm i bought not running
 

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