Case 430 many questions

Good afternoon, I have a 1967 Case model 430(actually 440 gas) with the model 22 loader and backhoe. I have owned the tractor for about 5 years and it has been a trustworthy companion. I do need to get to some maintenance items on it though and that is where my questions come from.

I changed the oil and filter when I bought the tractor, I also refilled the oil air filter I believe? Since then I have only added oil, it eats a quart of oil about every 4-5 hours of run time. I believe most of it burns off from worn rings since it has a consistent blue smoke. I assume at this point I should change the oil and filter again, what else should I do for maintenance? She always starts up easily weather it is 90 degrees or 10 degrees.

I have replaced the wiper seals and packings on the stabilizers and the swing cylinders because they had been leaking. Now my dipper and boom cylinders are leaking and they are much larger. I planned to order some good quality packings and wipers, does anyone have a suggestions on where to buy from that are quality?

The front bucket tilt cylinder had been leaking and would dip very quickly weather under a load or not. I replaced that wiper and packing but the cylinder still dips quickly(no more leaking though). I assume that the issue may be in the control valve? If so what is the best way of rebuilding this? Just take it apart and try to match up o rings somewhere?

Lastly I think the clutch is in need of adjustment or replacement. What is the proper way to adjust the clutch? the clutch has about 1 inch of freeplay now in the pedal before it starts to actually disengage the clutch. My issue comes about when you are under a heavy load such as starting to get stuck and the tires dig in and then grab and I believe I could get the clutch to slip if I didnt throw the clutch in to save it.
 
First I suggest you spring for an owner's manual. Most of your basic maintenance questions will be covered there. As well as the stuff you don't know about yet. Might cover clutch adjustment too.

Change or clean ALL the filters, not just the engine oil. Certainly the air cleaner oil again (I like to soak mine in solvent before putting in clean oil). How about the hydraulic oil filter(s)?

Run a compression test on your motor, first "dry", then after adding a tablespoon of oil just before testing each cylinder. (all compression tests should be done with the throttle plate blocked wide open.) On a cylinder with low compression (say 100psi or lower), if the compression comes up dramatically with oil added (called a "wet check", it indicates worn rings, if not, bad valves. At least these are the most common causes. If you have compression in the normal range (should also be in manual) and even across the cylinders, and you're still burning oil, it may be as easy as valve stem seals.

An inch of free play in a clutch pedal is pretty standard. If you're having issues with slippage when you have free play at the throwout bearing itself, your clutch is toast.
 
Oh yes, your hydraulics. What did the bore of the cylinders look like when you changed the packing? I put a cylinder hone in a 1/4" drill bit extender to clean these up. If they are badly scored or pitted, though, no amount of honing will save them.
 
I will seek out a manual.

The bores looked good.

How about the rebuilding of the loader controller?

I'll do a compression test to nail down where the oil is getting around.

Hydraulic filter is located right next to the control valve, I have never changed it. Is the filter common that I can get somewhere? It is in some type of cartridge.

So free play at pedal should be about 1 inch? If so th clutch is probably to the end of its life.
 
If it's a Case-O-Matic it's supposed to slip. Somewhere on my todo list is finding out why mine doesn't. This sort of thing is where the manual comes in. I'd still suspect your cylinders rather than the control valve, if it's a standard spool valve they are usually pretty reliable. I once had not one, but two, bucket tilt cylinders blow out on me after the Ford dealer had rebuilt them; when I did it myself, the first set of packings they sent were wrong. I'm sure they put the wrong ones in, and I'm certain they didn't hone the cylinders. But I'd pulled that control valve apart in the meantime, and it was fine. Generally it's only the seals that give out, and then they still work, they just leak. Recommend you do whatever it takes to change that filter immediately, anyway.
 
if anyone has the case ih manuals for g430 this tractor i will pay for a copy of them please 1964 g430 /8199450/ g45056 i need the front end loader manual an tractor parts manual with out hem i can not get the right parts
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