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Case model c

M

Mikey the Monkey

Member
Hay guys. Just inherited wife's grandfathers 1935 or 6 case model c. Hasn't run since 64, engine stuck, pushrod bent, intake manifold cracked. Rear wheels look bad from being loaded all these years. Don't have any spare parts. Any advice on parts? I'd love to hear it run. Is it better to turn it into yard art? I'm in upstate NY.
 
Should not be hard to get it running. They were designed to be fixed by a farmer in the field with much lower technology than available today.

Don L and John Saeli can both supply parts. Both have sent parts to me here in Australia and both are great to work with. Should be very easy to get parts from either of them.
 
If you are up for the project, it is always better to turn it into a working machine than into yard art :)

I believe I spotted your ad on craigslist looking for a donor tractor. That looks like a very workable machine from the picture. If it has been kept inside all this time, it shouldn't be too hard to get freed up and running.

Your 'C' is essentially an unstyled version of the 'D' series that came after it. Many parts will interchange, including your intake manifold and probably your bent push rod. Don and John mentioned below are both great sources for parts. John, is even in NY.

Please keep us updated with your progress.
 
Thanks for the info and encouragement. I've had cylinders full of wd40 for 2 weeks. Still won't budge. And yes that was me on Craigslist!
 
Sometimes it takes a while for them to break free. You might want to research some other oils for it to soak in. If you search back through some of the older threads, you will find some good tips. WD40 was designed to displace water (Water Displacement, formulation number 40), it wasn't designed to penetrate rust. There are some combinations of ATF, Acetone, and other oils that have reportedly worked well.

Keep us posted on your progress!
 
Model C tractors sitting unused for long periods are notorious for stuck valve gear, but yours could be stuck pistons as well.

Many people have posted methods for unsticking pistons. I have used 50/50 acetone and ATF in other tractors but never had to use it in a Case.

I suspect someone has tried to free your tractor by towing and bent the push rods. I have freed up valves on a Model C tapping the valve gear. Takes patience. If that does not work, take the head off to free up the valves. That way you can check if the pistons are stuck as well.
 
Sorry not good description on my part. Valves, valve guides and rockers. Until 1938, the C had oil vapour lubrication, combined with supposed daily removal of valve cover and oil splashed over rockers. This step was often neglected so valve components are often worn.

There are archive posts here with modifications to give pressure lubrication to valve components (which I referred to as valve gear). From 1938, the C then the D had pressure lubrication to the valves.

As you have the head off, check that none of the valve components are stuck.

Is the engine free now that you have the head off?

You may be able to straighten the bent push rods and reuse them. I think they are a scarce part, but with Don or John may be able to supply them.
 
Yes I have head off. Engine is still very stuck. I really appreciate the knowledge you have shared. I am going to get some atf in there as soon as possible.
 
A few months back i got a JD 40, which was stuck like no tractor I have ever had. Took the head off. 2 valves were stuck in guides. Both pistons (a JD 40 is a 2 cylinder vertical motor)were rusted in the bores. I took off the oil pan and removed the rod bearing caps. Using 50/50 acetone and ATF, plenty of soaking (2 weeks), and eventually a 2" wooden dowel and hammer, I got them free. Cylinder bores were rough. Using a wet hone, I cleaned them up. Installed new rings and rod bearings. When the (rebuilt) head went back on, I couldn't adjust the valves properly. Even some of the lifters were stuck in their respective lifter bores. A little penetrating oil and gentle tapping with a soft hammer freed them up. Valves were set loose until the motor ran, to ensure everything was free.
It sounds like a lot of work but really isn't. I suspect the same will happen with your case. Just be patient and it will run!
 
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