Bad news on 1030

jon f mn

Well-known Member
I screwed something up on the engine on my 1030 and ended up with a spun rod bearing. Can't figure out why it happened, but guess I'll be pulling it apart again to redo it. I know nothing was tight when I put it together because I turned the engine after torqueing each rod and felt nothing even remotely tight. Had 40 psi oil pressure when warm, so that was good. Guess it's good I have another crank and some spare rods. I checked the crank and it was in spec, but I didn't have it tested. Guess I'll be sending the other in for testing and maybe turning this time.

Is it possible to remove the crank and replace the rod without removing the heads? Could save the head gaskets if that is possble.
 
Jon.
Am I on your No call list, since we were talking on the phone when it died???
The only thing that I can think of is that there was something in the oil galley that dislodged and blocked off the flow to the #1 rod journal. Seams strange since that journal was closest to the pump.
Loren
 
Jon, I can sympathize. Twenty-five years ago I finished overhauling a 1938 RC. In my second parade it seized up and spun a bearing. I replaced that bearing and it did the same thing; I still haven't fixed it but I do have an RE engine to put in.
 
I feel for you, Jon. That is a big disappointment after all the labor and cost of resurrecting the old beast. As others have said, find out why before proceeding. Good luck
 
If that isn't a punch in the gut I don't know what is. I would get that motor line bored if you're going to use that same block. Good Luck getting it going again. Don
 
First it was loss of oil pressure, then some knocking. I confirmed it by pulling the pan and found the front rod loose. The bearing was hammered out and the rod had been hot. Spun might be the wrong word since I'm not sure it actually turned in the rod.
 
I did not plastigage them since the crank was original and the bearings were standard. That was obviously a mistake. Nothing felt tight tho as I rotated the crank after torquing each bearing and never felt any tightness.
 
Dang, sorry to hear that Jon. Yes the crank can be removed without removing the heads. Having a engine stand helps to work on the engine with it upside down. Not sure on the connecting rod though, might be able to pull piston down enough to remove wrist pin. Have done that on a few engines. Rod.
 
If it did not spin (turn in rod) it might have been a loose rod bearing rather than tight. I have seen several in my lifetime that were placed in the wrong boxes and even stamped wrong so they did not fit properly. When I assemble an engine I measure the fit of every single ring, piston, bearing, and valve. Over the years I have found numerous bad parts that did not fit properly. Many would have most likely worked OK without a problem, but many that would have caused your problems.
 
Sorry to hear that Jon, I know how bad it makes you feel to have something like that happen. Especially while being on a budget and spending a lot of money on it.

Ross
 

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