Case 311B Foot Clutch Followup

fixer2u

Member
Last fall I posted the following.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1281558&highlight=

And as it turns out you guys were pretty close! Looks to me like the thowout bearing partially siezed then wore out the throwout fork.

I am working on getting the hydraulic/tach drive housing out and have removed the 3 bolts but it will not budge. Is there some trick I should know about? Just keep pounding with a rubber mallet? PLease advise!

Thanks in advance!
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Unscrew the tach drive. Disengage the pump drive. After you remove the bolts the only thing hanging the housing is the gasket. Tap lightly on the tach rise on the housing trying to break it loose by turning the housing slightly back and forth.

Joe
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Thanks Joe, got it. Much appreciated!

Next questions is. I see there was some damage done to the pressure plate assembly. Do I have to replace the whole thing or can I just replace the 3 damaged components? They appear to be rivets holding them to the rest of the assembly.
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I see the Pressure Plate Lever is listed as a separate part number, but I am having trouble finding it online anywhere. G46059
 
I would replace the pressure plate as a unit as the parts will be qualified and the levers preset. It looks like your entire clutch assembly has seen better days. Trying to save few bucks might not be worth it in the long run.

Joe
 


Upon disassembly was the throwout bearing to the front or the rear, the damage to the fork looks like the bearing was in backwards, the spring is supposed to hold the throwout bearing forward to engage the notch that is completely worn off the old one with the pressure plate fingers and the actual bearing is supposed to be back against the fork. Would not surprise me if the clutch was pretty noisy.
 
Mel,

I think you are spot on! Good eye!

I do not remember which way the bearing was in, but I just went out and set the bearing assembly in "backwards" on the hyd pump shaft with the yoke in place and the notched portion slips right into the wear marks on the yoke. If I flip the bearing assembly over the correct way, the bearing end of the assembly is too large to slip in the wear grooves.

Apparently my father in law had someone split it about 20 years ago to have some work done, he cant recall what... They must have put it in wrong then! Surprisingly there were no odd noises and it all functioned well until one day I could no longer declutch.
 
I been thinking along the same line as mEL in viewing wear on the bearing and pressure plate levers. If the bearing was mounted correctly with notch toward the pressure plate than the spring is suspect. It may be the angle of the pic but the spring appears to be short. It must have enough tension to push the bearing tight against the pressure plate so the lever does not jump over the notch. The TO fork does not assist the spring, should not be touching the TO bearing.

The pics are my 310, same exact clutch assembly as the 311B. Compare the possible difference in how the spring is positioned on the shaft. Again it just might be the photo angle but the spring on your 311B doesn't look right. In the second pic I wedged a toothpick in a spline to show someone the position of the bearing on the shaft under tension up against the pressure plate. The spring has a small dia end that faces the housing seal and a larger dia end up against the TO bearing, check that there is a difference in end dia.

Another point on the TO bearing, the original bearing was Aetna Ball and Roller Bearing Co p/n A-899-2 installed in a housing spec'd by Case. A new bearing is available in several different brands, however, there is no possible way to remove the old bearing w/o destroying the housing let alone installing a new bearing in the housing that will function and remain in one piece. BTDT, not going to happen.

Joe
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(quoted from post at 04:04:40 04/25/17)
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All 3 of your pics show the bearing mounted backward. Your spring looks too short in these pics. Has it been cut down, wrong spring? Is there a small dia end and a large dia end on the spring?

Joe
 
Joe, if you had to guess, about how long do you think that spring should be? I will measure mine when I get home. From the pic I posted above with an inside view of the torque tube, my spring does look significantly shorter than yours.

I did order a new throwout bearing assembly from John Saeli yesterday so I will get the right one.
 
I am not going to try to guess the length of the spring, probably be grossly inaccurate. Look at your spring, does it have 2-3 coils on one end that are smaller than the rest of the coils? In this pic as well as the opposite side view pic above I count 8 coils and there will be 1-3 coils on the small end that are not shown in the pics.

Just looking at the damage to the pressure plate levers and the TO fork, it appears that the TO bearing was adrift, not tensioned against the pressure plate levers and also free to slid rearward on the pump shaft to contact the TO fork. That indicates weak, broken, or wrong spring.

I would certainly replace the spring even if it turned out to be the right one. Spring is p/n G16712, John can probably get a new one for you.

Joe
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Just to be clear, this a single friction disc clutch? The double friction disc clutch has a shorter hydraulic pump drive shaft and may take a different spring which is not listed in my parts manual.

Joe
 
Well it looks as if the spring slid up inside the bearing assembly and was eaten away, it is only about 4" long now and you can see how the outside has been eaten away from the bearing spinning on it. I will be ordering a new one.

Thank you all for the sharp eyes!
 
Here are the old and new bearing side by side along with the old and new spring. That old spring does appear to have been installed backwards as the "small end" and over half of the spring was completely worn away by the throwout bearing. Thanks to John Saeli for getting both those parts to me quickly and at a fair price!
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A couple of reassembly considerations:

When mating the engine/bell housing the pressure plate hub can hang up on the end of the hyd pump shaft as shown in pic. You need to be in pretty close alignment and may have to turn the engine to mesh the splines. The temptation is to pull it together with the fasteners but if not correctly aligned and in mesh that will bend the pressure plate and friction disc hubs toward the engine and the clutch will not disengage. Engine/bell housing should slide together easily with very little effort.

Next pic is linkage adjustment. The first paragraph is incorrect. The spring tensions the TO bearing up tight against the pressure plate levers with the notch between any two levers. The cited clearance is between the TO fork contact points and the back of the TO bearing. The TO fork only contacts the TO bearing during disengagement and while the clutch is held in the disengaged position.

Joe
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Thank you for all the advise Joe, I will most likely be putting everything back together this weekend.
I do have a question on the best way to get the clutch disk centered on the pressure plate and to keep it there while bolting everything back up. What is a good way to do this?
 
You should use a clutch disc alignment tool of some kind. It doesn't have to be perfect as when the drive shaft enters the pilot bushing and the splines begin to mesh the friction disc will center up if close.

Go to the link and look at the pics. I have the type like the ~$35 set on the left as well as a bunch of different sizes made out of wood left over from the 50's & 60's. For a little used tool the ~$9 type feabay tool set should be adequate as long as it fits snug in the pilot bushing.

Joe
https://www.google.com/search?lr &as_qdr all&q universal clutch alignment tool&sa X&ved 0ahUKEwi0_YnxgvbTAhVsw4MKHWAgAqwQ1QII QEoBA
 
Success! With the help of my brother rolling the rear tires with me at the same time, and my dad helping align the splines it slid together with not much issue! She fired right up and I was able to take right off! Just need to get the sheet metal back on.

Thank you all for your help and advise. Thanks to John Saeli for several parts at a good price and quick turn around.




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https://youtu.be/bchQZLWZs2g
 

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