VAC 5773423

I forgot to mention that the pulley neither moves when cranking the engine or pushing the tractor. Its all the way into its housing.

Drain the fluid and remove the pulley assembly? I don't believe that they are too complicated a setup and you might be able to discern what is wrong.

I assume you loosened up the set screw and the pulley is definitely in all the way. The set screw on top of the housing holds the pulley in for use, out for when not in use.

The pulley assembly moves approximately 1 1/8" from disengaged to engaged. Maybe that will help to be sure it is fully engaged. Lee

Are you sure the transmission was in gear when you turned the rear wheel?

This may change the positive on the clutch malfunction. The problem now could be anywhere between the engine flywheel and the wheels so we need to get the pulley turning with the wheel or get it off so we can see if the drive shaft is turning when you rotate the rear wheel.

Joe

At this point I think you should pull the pulley per connor9988's comment. Go back to the service manual pulley page on the other post, note that there are shims for setting gear backlash. You're going to want to check that on reinstallation.

There are some guys commenting now that are very experienced in VAC more so than I am. We need to stay on the same page so please do the checks exactly as written.

When you get the pulley off check the drive shaft intact. Jack up the right rear wheel, transmission engaged, does the shaft turn? If no try the other gears. It is possible the transmission in one gear is not turning like having a broken fork or something.

If the shaft doesn't turn on the right wheel do all the same on the left wheel it is possible to have a broken axle on the right side.

Let us know exactly what you are doing and the result.

Joe

I jacked the right wheel up as mentioned, tried turning in every gear. Rev proved the hardest to turn. I took the pulley housing off as the pulley assembly itself wouldn't come out of the housing. Turning the R wheel, there was just slight intermittent movement of the shaft. I found I could turn it by hand easily.
I didn't do the L wheel as im here by myself and couldn't turn and look inside the tube at the same time.
Theres nothing to see other than a 8in therebouts shaft with a bevel bearing on the L side, each side of the shaft going into the side walls of the tube.

The shaft didn't move as the back of the bevel gear is against the side wall of the tube, and the fron t of the gear is against the pulley gear. it wasn't after I took the pulley out and off, but the shaft didn't move sideways anyway.
Kinda funny, there was one bolt, and 3 stud bolts holding it on. One of them was of a different size.

I also forgot to mention that I had the tractor in nuetral when moving the drive shaft. I just tiried it in each gear and it DIDNT move.
I noticed that the bevel gear on the drive shaft was shiny at the outside ends of the teeth, meaning to me that I need to take shims out before reinstalling. Am I right?
Is the pulley assembly supposed to slide in and out of the pulley assembly housing, like on WC-WD Allis Chalmers tractors? Does that put it in/take it out of gear/operation? IF SO, the pulley assembly dosnt want to come out of the housing.

There is an inner sleeve that is oily and clean. It I can get out. The second is a assembly piece that fits in between the tractor pulley unit housing and the sleeve mentioned before. The assembly piece is fitted TIGHT against the tractor pulley wheel mounting and it is at the wrong place for the set bolt to hit the inner holes of the assembly and inner sleeve. I think that IF I take all the shims out that I can make the pulley work.

Yes you would remove shims to decrease the gear backlash but you need to know that the pulley was fully engaged. I can't determined from your comments that you are sure it was fully engaged. Just forget the pulley for now.

Lets just continue with trying to turn the shaft from the back. You need a helper. Jack up the right wheel, transmission engaged, have the helper rotate the wheel while you are watching the shaft. If it moves at all and you think you can do it safely reach in there and see if you can hold the shaft from moving.

If the shaft doesn't move in time with rotation of the right wheel put the wheel back on the ground. Jack up the left wheel, transmission engaged, do the same test as you did with the right wheel.

If the shaft does not turn in time with either wheel there is a problem in the transmission. If the shaft turns with one wheel but not the other wheel in the method we are testing there is a problem in the differential, broken axle or something on the side of the that doesn't turn the shaft.

When you get done with the rear wheel tests now that you have the pulley off, have the helper hand crank the engine, clutch engaged, transmission in neutral, while you check that the flywheel is turning and the drive shaft is also turning in the pulley opening. If the shaft turns that does not prove the clutch is gripping enough to drive the tractor weight. You need to have the engine running and test drive the tractor get an idea how the clutch is performing.

I need to stop posting for awhile, have too much going on. Getting way too sloppy in reviewing and making stupid mistakes. Good luck.

Joe