Farmallb

Well-known Member
I put it on the belt to start it belted to another tractor. Pulley didn't engage. I could tap it around a 1/4-1/2in out after I loosed the stop bolt on top and take it off, and that back in making the pulley tight against the housing. Whats wrong?????????
 
I just put it in gear and turned it with the crank. Good comp, but nothing moved. Im thinking clutch plate. Whats your thoughts?
 
Were you using the tractor or had it setup for a long time? You probably checked at the timing hole that the flywheel was turning and put it in 1st gear and tried to hand crank the engine. If you're in doubt that the pulley is engaging, pull the shifter plate check input gear turning. In the clutch can only be friction disc loose from the spline hub. Splines stripped on hub/drive shaft (not very likely) or a broken drive shaft. Pressure plate could be rusted in the disengaged position if the clutch pedal had been locked down but those springs are really strong, would have to be a serious rust ball. On the other hand there might be a bunch of mice in there pushing on the throw out bearing every time they hear you come around the tractor.

Joe
 
No I didn't pull any plates to check inside. No, it hasn't ran in years Im assuming, maybe decades.
By (Shifter plate), do you mean the plate that holds the shifter knob? Im kinda leary of that after having done that on a JD A. Took quite awhile to get it back right again.
The pulley cant go any further in, so I assume that its engaging. IF the clutch plate is stuck out and not engaging, is there anyway I can see that, AND anything I can do to rectify that situation?
 
Called my Daughter who had it and still has the key. She said the engine ran fine, but that she had never moved it once it had been parked.

I just jacked up a rear wheel, put it in gear and belted the tire to my Farmall B. It turned the wheel likely 100 times faster than if I had been pulling it around the yard. I removed the eye hole by the steering shaft and put in a screwdriver, and the clutch wasn't turning. I could hear growling all up the tube to the bell housing.
 
You probably can't answer these questions since the tractor has been setup for a long time but the info would be helpful if you can. Was the tractor use discontinued and setup due to the condition that you now describe? Was the clutch pedal blocked down for a considerable time while the tractor was setup?

Yes, I was referring to the plate with the shifter knob. Do not pull it if you're not comfortable with reinstalling it.

Pic1 is how to engage the belt pulley. Put it in the engaged position and leave it there from now on.

Pic2 is the timing hole. It is located on the left side of the bell housing. It might have a cover on it. All you can see in that hole is the outside of the flywheel that is bolted to the engine crankshaft. You probably won't see any marks on the flywheel, just disregard the marks in the pic. Rub a piece of chalk on the part of the flywheel that you can see in the hole so you'll know if it moved.

Jack up the right rear wheel, transmission engaged turn the wheel by hand, does the belt pulley turn? Did the flywheel move, chalk marked not visible now?

I am out of time, I'll pick up on this later tonight or tomorrow.

Joe
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#1, no. The clutch worked when I bought it 5yrs ago. I pulled it a mile from where I bought it in gear with the clutch in as I was being pulled fast and I didn"t know if both brakes would engage at the same time when pushed, both locked together. I let out on the clutch to slow the tractor down, and it worked fine then.

#2 I don"t think the clutch pedal was ever locked down

#4 I jacked up one wheel and put a belt pulley around around it and turned it that way with the help of another tractor. I put a screwdriver in the inspection hole while the
I realize that the differential likely kicked in and that nullified the clutch turning. I pulled it on a 3ft chain around a quarter mile and nothing happened with it in gear. Ill mark the clutch housing as you suggest Monday and pull it again if it isn"t raining.
 
Don't pull it. I just want to know if the pto and flywheel turn when you roll a rear wheel by hand. When I know that we will continue checking from the front.

When you pull the tractor for a period time with engine not running and clutch engaged the friction disc gets hot and glazes. Even with the clutch disengage and pulling like that heats the friction disc due to windage. I've had disengaged clutches on ships catch on fire due to windage when a line shaft lock fails and that is only ~200 rpm or les with a 1/2" air gap.

Continued working the tractor heats up a glazed friction disc because it is slipping however slightly. Eventually it will be glazed to the point that there is no friction left.

You can also break a crankshaft pulling like that.

It's ok to pull start a tractor when have someone on it to pop and release the clutch but pulling with the clutch engaged for a period of time is going to break something.

Joe
 
The flywheel turned when the engine is cranked, it doesn't turn when the drive shaft is turned via the rear wheel but the belt pulley does rotate. Is that correct?

All this as stated above means the crankshaft is not broken (hopefully you left the spark plugs in while cranking the engine as you did before).

The above indicates that the malfunction is isolated to the clutch assembly or a broken drive shaft near the clutch (not likely).

The clutch pedal not being blocked down for an extended period indicates the pressure plate and the throw out bearing are not the problem unless the pressure plate simply came apart and was not forcing the friction disc against the flywheel although I suspect it is well rusted.

That leaves the friction disc as the culprit. The disc may be worn down or glazed beyond being capable of carrying the load. Less likely the brass rivets have parted and the friction lining has separated from the flex piece that is riveted to the hub. Pic is a VAC friction disc, there are several different styles.

You're going to have to split the tractor and check the clutch assembly. It's been 15 years since I?ve did a VA clutch job and I wasn't taking pics in those day. I do not have a VAC or service manual anymore. I can't walk you through a split. There are people here probably have recent experience or you can get a mechanic locally if you don't want to tackle it w/o help.

Joe
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I jacked up the L wheel, and never thought to look at the pulley. IF it aint raining tomorrow, Ill jack up the right and see.
Never took out the plugs or messed any with the engine as DD said that it ran good when she had it.
I have split a Cub Farmall myself, a B Farmall with help from my nephew. I am getting help to split the VAC from my boy.
Is there anything left yet to check before doing the splitting?
 
(quoted from post at 03:25:31 02/20/17) I jacked up the L wheel, and never thought to look at the pulley. IF it aint raining tomorrow, Ill jack up the right and see.
Never took out the plugs or messed any with the engine as DD said that it ran good when she had it.
I have split a Cub Farmall myself, a B Farmall with help from my nephew. I am getting help to split the VAC from my boy.
Is there anything left yet to check before doing the splitting?

Can't think of any other option. Having split a Farmall B the VAC with a little help will be a piece of cake. Good luck with it.

Joe
 

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